TheF

https://www.hkvstar.com/technology-news/dahua-dvr-nvr-password-recovery-reset.html

50/60ft of RG59 should not be a problem. I've had 300ft of it in several installations with no problem. You might have a problem with one of your components, but finding which one might be trouble. I never reccommend using too many components that mess with the signal (amplifier/converter and so on) as it creates too many things that can go faulty. The more things, the harder to find the problem, usually. Before removing components one by one until problem goes away, I would ask you to check if monitor has a screen saver mode of sorts. Many installers use cheap PC monitors, which often has a setting for it.

Long time lurker, first time poster. RS 485 has long been the way to control PTZ cameras, but recently UTC has been gaining ground and I love it. But I have a problem with a new zoom camera, which is only UTC and I need it to be wireless. Now, I have a wireless transmitter for RS485, but not UTC, so I'm thinking there might be a RS485 to UTC converter. I have searched, but not found. Does anyone know of it? Alternatively, can someone point me in the right direction for the UTC protocols? I might concider making my own.

Some DVRs have spot monitor out, which you can set up to a different view than the main monitor. Other DVRs can only show a duplicate of the main monitor. And other DVRs only have the one monitor output. This new Hikvision system, is it analog/TVI/AHD or IP? I have seen AHD to HDMI converters with loopthrough (same AHD signal output), so you could hook monitor #2 to a camera signal before it enters the DVR. Bet those exist for TVI as well. If the Hikvision system is IP, just set up a micro PC on that other monitor, streaming with your internet browser.

What you are going to use your camera for is the most important thing when choosing which camera to use. There are so very, very many brands to choose between and while they are mostly similar, there are some pros and cons to most brands. Don't go for the cheapest camera you can find, as quality often follows price. I would, however not go for the most expensive either, unless it has the one feature you really need that no other camera has. If camera brand is the same as DVR brand, you'll have an easier time setting up the camera, most cases. Otherwise, I'd say that both recorder and camera should support ONVIF. Most IP cameras today support ONVIF, but not all. If brand is not equal and one or both your devices do not support ONVIF, you might be in for trouble.

According to this link: https://www.annkestore.com/annke-4ch-1080p-hd-tvi-dvr-dn41r.html the recorder supports up to 1080p (2MPx) TVI/AHD, but only 960p (1,3MPx) IP camera. It also lists it to support 4ch TVI/AHD, but only 1ch IP camera.

I had a similar problem not long ago. Turned out the IR-cut filter was defective. Most modern cameras use IR light to show night time images in black&white, but when at day-time having color images, the IR light needs to be blocked or else the IR light will be visible in dark areas (black areas will be purple-ish). To prevent this, the cameras has a mechanical IR cut filter, that physically places a filter in front of the imager.

I have a powerful server machine specced for recording 40ch IP cameras and a separate powerful client station to view all 40ch IP cameras. It's working fine, no problem at all. But I would like to add one more client station (server says it can have several client stations), and I would hope to not spend as much money on the second client since it will only stream 9ch IP cameras (4megapixel, each of them). Any recommandations to client station specifications? Do I need an i7 processor, or can I make do with an i5? Do I need 16GB RAM, or can I make do with 8GB? The software allows for showing a substream of less than the original 4megapixel (especially since 9x4megapixels is way more than the monitor can show anyways). Any suggestions?

I came across a Sony SNC-VB770 camera, which according to the leaflet has an E-mount for the lense. https://pro.sony/en_VU/products/fixed-cameras/snc-vb770 From what I can find, E-mount is a lense mount designed by Sony. but it also seems as if it is originally intended for photography cameras. Now, the 4K camera has 35mm imager, so it makes sense that allready established photography lenses could be used, but are there other CCTV cameras out there that also uses the E-mount? Most high resolution cameras I have dealt with have somewhere between 1/3" and 1/2" imager (I have seen some1/1,7" imagers) but no cameras I have encountered yet has the 35mm requiring the bigger lense. Also, is there autoiris lenses for 35mm?

I might have a simple and cheap sollution for you. Might be too simple tho, as it has no communication between the camera and the light... https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180405005930&SearchText=timer+switch

I have not found any PoE switches that can be powered by PoE, but I know there are PoE splitters out there, converting that 48V to 12V usable by, let's say, a PoE switch. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180405005241&SearchText=poe+splitter But the PoE splitters I have seen so far only split out 12V and not the 48V required by the PoE switch. You might find a PoE splitter that yields 48V. Just pay close attention to your power budget. PoE switches comes in two different versions. One is about 15W, the other is about 30W. I have seen IP cameras using a range of 2w to 13w, depending on IR light, heater, PTZ function, motor zoom and so on. Figure out how much your four cameras consume in total (should be listed in their spec sheet), and make sure the switch and PoE unit downstairs can handle it all.

You would need to supply more information. What did you try? What did you use? Where is it stopping?

you will notice a big difference when upgrading from your legacy analog system. TVI, CVI and AHD are all coax based and can currently support up to 4/5MPx cameras with existing coax cables. You will notice big difference just by going for 2MPx (HD), but if you can afford it, I'd go all in with 4/5 MPx cameras. Remember, higher pixel count in cameras mean more digital zoom (it's not like it is in CSI). Storage needs will increase, but HDD can be changed later if you need it. I have not met a CVI/TVI/AHD system that doesn't support legacy analog cameras, so if you wanna reuse them in other places to save money, You can. TVI can be a lot easier to handle than IP if you're not sure of the difference of IP-adresses, network mask, gateway and such, since it's just a cable and power. As for brand, I¨'m not gonna suggest one or another, cause most of them are pretty decent and similar, with intuitive menus. buying a big brand usually offers better support, but not allways. No-brand from China usually gives no support and I have had China-made DVRs "call home" with unknown data, which I find scary.

Cool. I'll try the color bar generator, I got one of those. I'll look more into Time-Domain Reflectometry, and when I learn more about it, I'll give that a go as well. You pointed me in the right direction for that one. Thank you for that.

According to Wikipedia, 75 Ohm BNC can be recognized from 50 Ohm BNC due to reduced or even absent dielectric material a8also according to some other websites I found). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BNC_connector https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d6/BNC_50_75_Ohm.jpg/220px-BNC_50_75_Ohm.jpg But Wikipedia also mentions that this is by no means reliable. Is there another reliable way to make 100% sure if it is 75 Ohm or 50 Ohm? I suppose I could try and measure it somehow. I have access to Oscilloscope and colour bar generator. Any thoughts on how best to connect a test-setup to determine 50 Ohm or 75 Ohm? Or another way of reliably recognizing one or the other.

First, 540TVL cameras are old and you should concider changing those as well, while you're at it. For pure compatibility, almost any DVR with a BNC input will work for you. DVRs with BNC input these days are either AHD, CVI or TVI and will also support legacy analog cameras. Most (if not all) modern DVR support viewing over the internet. You just need to know which ports on your router you need to open up (or use a VPN). Many retailers do not want to sell directly to end-user customers simply because of the hours of support that often comes with it. Also, they don't want to be in competition with their installer customers. Find an installer and ask if they sell for DIY projects.

I would say it depends on the purpose of the cameras. If it is to check if the halls are empty or occupied, I'd say two cameras, in each oposing corner, covering two hallways each. If it is to detect burglars, I'd just cover the entrance/exits combined with motion sensors, which is less intrusive. If it is to detect illegal activity and identify the person doing it, I'd go full on with four cameras, one hallway for each. Placed so that camera 1 can see camera 2, camera 2 can see camera 3 and so on, to catch sabotage attempts.

Looks like the DVR might be Vitek DVR. You should try following the steps in this video:

I would normally advice against cables through floors, as it's difficult to get it nice. Also cables through floors are often exposed to harsh treatment, such as vacuum cleaners, scrubber soap, furniture being rearranged and so on. But with 1800 houses, one must some times make do. Also hole in the floor would need to be protected from moist, condensation and so on.

Interesting. If CCtvcalculator is that inaccurate, I think I'll throw it to the curb and start using Stardot and Supercircuit.

Not enough data to calculate it for you. Need camera resolution, FPS, number of cameras. Use this link and add the numbers: https://www.cctvcalculator.net/

To get colour image, you need light. CCTV cameras today are much more sensitive than before. Check the cameras spec for amount of lux. Lower lux means darker it can see. But still, you either switch to black/white at night and most cases use IR light to enhance B/W image, or you add white light to get colour images.

Night time is a problem with many cameras, and has been a problem for a long time. There's two ways to fix the problem. 1: Buy a new camera that is better at low-light situations (night) 2: Get more light. Most outdoor CCTv camera have IR light embedded. Plus for IR light is the light is invisible to humans, but allows the camera to see at night. Extra IR light can be mounted as needed. Minus for IR light, is you only get black/white image. You can also mount visable light and choose between allways on or activated by motion, but if activated by motion, your camera might need time to adjust, in which time whoever triggered the motion might not be seen on camera during that time.

If both the camera and NVR supports ONVIF, it shouldn't be any problem at all. If one or both does not support ONVIF, there's still a chance. Most IP cameras support RTSP streaming. Most NVRs support RTSP streaming. There might be a bit of settings to play with to get it working tho.

Most likely you'll need physical access to the camera. Most cameras (most equipment, really) needs you to: *unplug power *press a reset switch (usually in the back of the equipment) *insert power plug while holding the reset switch *wait 5-10 seconds, depending on the firmware *release the reset switch You'll then have a factory reset device that needs all settings, such as IP-adress, username/password to be set up again