swbrains

Hi, I recently upgraded to a 16 channel IP NVR. I also purchased a 16 port PoE switch to power the cameras. I installed 8 new PoE IP cameras (none of these are wireless/wifi cameras); 7 work fine. One is located under the soffit at the rear of the house. Others are in the front of the house and in the garage. Another is in a screened/covered patio on the rear of the house, mounted to the ceiling right next to the house wall. The one at the rear of the house (NOT inside the screen porch) is the only one that experiences any type of problem. Specifically it wouldn't consistently boot up. It would boot, show video for less than a minute, then reboot, and repeat this rebooting process over and over. I initially thought it was a low-power issue as this was the longest run (Cat5e UTP), but still only about 80 feet. I purchased a separate PoE power injector and installed it AT the camera outside. Still repeatedly reboots after restarting. I then ran a new cable, new RJ45 plug and jack, tested using a LAN tester and all 8 lines passed. Still repeatedly rebooted. I thought perhaps the Cat5e might be laying near a 120V line somewhere in my attic (although I was pretty sure it wasn't), but rerouted the cable to ensure it wasn't anywhere near a live 120V line. Still repeatedly rebooted. Replaced the camera with a brand new one of the same model. Still repeatedly rebooted. Finally, in a long day outside trying various changes to narrow down any cause, I started to notice a pattern. If I was on the ladder holding the camera (not mounted to the house), after restarting the camera it would boot immediately and stay running. If I mounted it to the soffit/house (me no longer holding it) and restarted it, it would reboot repeatedly. I also tried lowering the cable from the soffit and leaving the camera on the ladder (about 4 feet off the ground), restarted it, and it booted and ran fine. It started to seem like when the camera was up high (only about 9 feet up to the soffit), it would reboot repeatedly after restarting. If it was lower (i.e. below my head height when I was on the ladder), it booted perfectly and ran just fine. I thought it was odd, but eventually noticed that even when mounted to the house wall or soffit at 9 ft high, if I kept my hands wrapped around he body of the camera and rebooted it, then it booted and ran properly. If I held the camera with just two fingers (NOT wrapping my hand around it), but held it a few inches from my chest so the camera was now between the house and my body but nothing was wrapped around the camera, it booted and ran fine. If I held the camera the same way OVER my head (at about 8 ft height), it would repeatedly reboot. I wondered if my hands and/or body, when next to the camera, were providing some "shielding" from some external interference coming from behind me and behind my back yard. So on a whim, I mounted the camera up at the soffit again, wrapped the camera in a couple sheets of tin foil, all except a small opening at the front where the lens is. I did not stand near the ladder/camera. I restarted it and it booted and ran fine. I removed the foil and rebooted it, and it would repeatedly reboot! I repeated this test several times to ensure the results. Nothing else was changed other than adding or removing the foil around the camera. I was not physically near the camera. The foil had to cover the entire length of the camera (bullet type). If even an inch of the camera body was exposed at the end, it would reboot repeatedly. In order to keep it consistently starting and running, the foil had to actually extend past the lens end of the camera and was visible in the camera image, so it wasn't an acceptable long-term solution (nor would I want it to be). So it seems as if behind my house there is some type of interference (EMI/RF/etc) coming from the back yard (or the area behind my back yard) and reflecting off the house, particularly in the soffit area (remember, the camera booted fine if it was sitting on a 4 ft stepstool about 2 ft out from the wall of the house). Other factors: * There are no houses adjacent to my my back yard behind me; just an open field. Houses do exist on either side (left/right). There is a treeline about 100 yds away directly behind my yard, and there is private property there with two or three older homes nestled in the woods, but they are not visible from my yard so I can't see if they have anything that would generate interference. * There were no electrical devices in the back yard running at the time. * There are no power lines above ground within 200 yds of my home in any direction and none below ground in the back yard. * There were no electrical devices running in the house near the wall where the camera was mounted. The wall is a concrete block wall, if it matters. * There are no electrical lines within 4 feet of that area of the soffit, either in the attic or the inside house wall. * I have 3 cameras mounted to the soffits in the front of the house and all run perfectly (I was starting to wonder if mounting to the vinyl soffit mattered!). * The nearest airport is about 30 - 40 miles away. There were no planes overhead when the problem occurred. * The problem occurred over several days during the week of installation and was consistent from day to day. Everything I read online indicated that IP cameras were LESS susceptible to EMI than analog cameras due to the digital nature of their transmissions. But my tests strongly indicate that something about this area of my house on the back wall near the soffit is experiencing some type of interference that causes this camera to have trouble booting unless my body or tin foil shields it. The source seems to be behind my yard since I could barely hold the camera in front of my chest (not touching my body, two fingers holding the base only) and it would boot properly. But stepping to the side and holding it the same way caused it to reboot repeatedly. Has anyone had a similar experience with interference of some type on an IP PoE camera, or have any ideas about what types of sources might cause this type of interference? Thanks!

I know this thread is ancient, but I found it looking for similar information about wiring a third-party SD analog camera for use with a Samsung 5001n DVR system. I wanted to share my experience here so it would be available for future Googlers. DISCLAIMER: This worked for me. I'm not responsible for any problems or damage caused by following these instructions. You assume all risk for making any modifications to your cameras/system. You will void any camera warranties by making these modifications to them. YMMV -- I'm just sharing my successful experience in case it helps someone... I needed to replace an original Samsung SEB-1005r bullet camera that had failed, so I purchased a couple of third-party cameras online to try with my system: 1) STOIC model STH-B2080W 2) TMEZON model MZ-CA-C3071P Initially I purchased a third-party adapter that had BNC and power on one end and an RJ-45 jack on the other. It was not specifically stated as a Samsung SDE compatible adapter and it did not work. Next, I purchased another third-party adapter that was BNC/Power to RJ-45 plug and came with an RJ-45 coupler to allow connecting to existing RJ-45 terminated cables running throughout my house to each camera. This adapter was stated as an SDE-5001 compatible adapter (I believe the 4001 also has the same wiring pinouts). When I examined the wiring layout of the new adapter's RJ-45 plug more closely, I realized it only had three wires inside: Red, Black and Orange. Red is 12V+ power, Black is ground, and Orange is CVBS+ for the camera. The pinout for these wires inside the RJ-45 plug was as follows: PIN 1: Orange (CVBS+) PIN 4: Black (Ground) PIN 5: Red (12V+) Apparently, the CVBS- signal wire was was connected to the Black wire connected to PIN4, even though the Samsung pinout shows it separately going to PIN 2 as CVBS-. The vendor sold the camera and adapter as a kit with additional cable, but it was close to $100. It also required a short coupler cable for the power (which was also included) to make up the male-to-male connection between the adapter and the camera power plugs. Between the connections for the adapter to the camera and the additional power coupler wire and the RJ-45 coupler, the whole thing was quite bulky and there would too many "parts" hanging outside next to the camera to look neat, not to mention the number of potential points of failure. I decided to cut off the camera's BNC and power connectors, and discovered two red and one black wire coming from the camera power connector. There was a yellow wire coming from the camera's BNC center post connection. The yellow wire was wrapped in bare silver ground wire connected to the BNC outer shield. All wires were unfortunately stranded instead of solid which made them a bit more difficult to work with. I'm not sure why they used two red wires instead of one thicker power wire. To make up the new RJ-45 jack connections directly to the camera (avoiding any BNC/power connectors or adapters), I used the three pin wiring scheme shown above. There was no need for a balun or any other hardware other than a typical RJ-45 keystone jack that I had in stock from the hardware store. Here are the steps I followed: 1) You may want to first test that you have a compatible camera using one of the working Samsung BNC/Power adapters first before you modify the camera wiring permanently to make sure the camera actually works with your DVR. If the camera works, take off the adapter and continue... 2) Cut off the power and BNC connectors from the camera (BTW, your warranty is now void). 3) Strip about 1/2" of the *outer* insulation on the power and BNC connection cables, exposing the inner wires. These inner wires include: - Power cable: (2) red, (1) black, and - BNC cable: (1) yellow wire wrapped in bare silver stranded ground wire These wires were the same on both third-party cameras I converted. Note, the red/black/yellow wires are most likely stranded and *very* fine gauge (noticeably thinner than 24 AWG CAT5). Be very careful when stripping them. 4) First separate all the bare stranded silver ground wire from the yellow (BNC) This will leave just the yellow wire extending out of the outer insulation. The bare wire will need to be connected somehow to another wire that will connect to PIN 2. I chose to solder a CAT5 wire to the silver ground wire and wrap it in electrical tape. 5) Now strip about 1/8" off the end of all wires. Twist the bare ends as much as possible. The two red power wires should be twisted together. I ended up tinning the wires at this point which helped greatly when punching them down into the jack, as they were too thin to stably stay punched by themselves. I did initially try just punching down the wires without stripping them, but they were too thin for the RJ-45 jack's connection "blades" to make a solid connection. Stripping, tinning and then punching down is strongly recommended. 6) I use the 586A layout for the CAT5 cables for my existing cameras, so my connections listed below will reflect 586A on the RJ-45 jack's punchdown connectors: a) Connect the Yellow (BNC/CVBS+ signal) wire to the PIN 1 connector (Green/White) b) Connect the lead from the bare ground wire (BNC/CVBS-) to the PIN 2 connector (Solid Green) d) Connect the Black (Power Cable Ground) wire to the PIN 4 connector (Solid Blue) d) Connect the two Red (12V+ power) wires to the PIN 5 connector (Blue/White) For these connections, make sure you are punching down the bare, tinned ends and not the insulated part like you would for normal CAT5. Make sure the wires are snug and won't easily pull out when you're done punching them all down. 7) Set the two cables (the unstripped parts) in the center aisle between the two rows of connectors on the RJ-45 jack and install the dust cap on the top of the connection area. That's it! Test your connections on your DVR! I'm guessing at this point you could probably add some type of sealant to the RJ-45 jack to make it more weatherproof, especially if the camera will be exposed to the elements, but I'll leave that as an exercise for the reader. Luckily, all of my outside cameras are mounted directly under an overhang so they are exposed to very limited "direct" moisture. Some type of strain relief would probably also be helpful for the longevity of the connection. Again, an exercise for the reader... FWIW, the TMEZON camera I purchased works fine and is IP66 rated, even though it has a cheap plastic case -- but it only cost $11 on Amazon! With $2 for an RJ-45 jack, I could create future replacement cameras for less than $15 each and about 15 minutes of my time to replace the BNC/Power connectors with an RJ-45 jack. Since I'm not ready to invest $1000+ in a completely new high-def system or run new cables, etc., this will help extend the life of my current system, even if it is only standard-def. It suits my purposes for a budget home system, and I'm now happy to be able to replace the original Samsung SEB-1005r cameras with currently-available products since we can't get the originals any more. Next I need to find a cheap, compatible dome-style camera replacement! Good luck!