Slim

Stick with CAT5e (FT6 if required for fire regs in "Free air" no conduit applications) The only issue you may have is power distance, so you may want to power tha cameras locally. Ive used a ton of NVT gear and if memory serves, the minimum specs required are CAT3e. But again, your biggest concern may be distance for power, in which case you may be able to double up your pairs to carry the power.

Should be no noticable issue at all

Could just be fine particulate on the outside of the enclosure window that's holding the moisture? Worth a look

A good field monitor with a decently sized display should suffice. If you need more then check out the "Camera Master". A handy tool, but no substitute for the good old eye

If the client wants underground cable run and there is room..............Direct burial or "Aquaseal" is the way to go, and make sure ya leave a pull string. If you can convince him, run an additional set now rather than later, because anyone that has run new cable through new underground conduit knows....in a year or 2 all kinds of things can crush (corrugated conduit) or fill up these conduits (muck, etc), lol. I wasted 4 1/2 hours trying to unblock a conduit that was a year old (No pullstring left for me of course). The block? A dead severely bloated Rat! lol

Is there a menu setting for focus? (PTZ / Z / Auto)? Depending on the camera there may also be a manual "Back focus" adjustment (more common in older PTZs). It may also be a defect if its new, but generally PTZ cameras have no issues with the dome and focus. If the lens and dome are indeed "clean" it might even be a malformed dome. Look through it from all angles by eye. Hope this helps.

Never underestimate a good Twist-On BNC. If done correctly, they are very strong and the plus side? Reuseable, reuseable, reuseable $$$

I just cant say enuff about the benefits of "Wire Butter" and a plain ole rag.

Generally speaking, the wider the lens, the more pronounced the curvature. If you want to get rid of it, cover only the area you need with a narrower lens type. From your pic it does look wider than a 4-10. A 5-33 ish lens will get rid of the curvature and should give almost the same view. (If your lens is a 4-10).

What model of Pelco PTZ? And as far as power supply, do you mean the actual "Voltage conversion" board or just a 24VAC power supply? Please tell me it's not a CobraDome, lol.

Personally, unless distance is an issue, I suggest sticking with coax. Cost benefits include the fact that all you need is a roll of RG and a couple of BNC connectors (Any Tech can handle that). And if it happens that somehow you get into trouble and your line gets cut at 3 am, it's nothing a good coupler and more BNCs wont fix. The repair will be faster as well. If it is a distance issue, and depending on how many lines you need to run, a Fiber "Patch" panel might be the route to take as all your "home run" lines can be run into it and then it's just a matter of 2 Fiber to Coax units per camera. (RX & TX) and a couple of fiber patch cables, then coax runs to your camera and switch or DVR end from the converters. (I have used IFS VR1900 Series FM Video Receiver with Bi-directional Data Transmission and and they have been rock solid). I will admit that every situation is different, but all in all, cheaper and simpler is usually better. Running fiber is also a bit more delicate (Tension, radius bends, etc) especially when running "Free air" above ceilings and through walls. There is also the additional costs of the terminations and extra gear you need as well. Don't get me wrong, Fiber has it's place and I've used a fair bit of it. Just decide if you "Need" to use it. As far as wanting to learn how to terminate fiber (Never a bad Idea) but some of the equipment can be pretty pricey. When you boil it down a good pair of coax strippers can save you alot of headaches down the road.

Hi tbip: Probably not the answer you want but here goes. I have never been a big fan of "cards" and honestly have never seen one that is adequately reliable (Compounded by the average PC hardware and operating system). I would recommend an actual DVR unit who's sole function is recording video. Most are quite dependable and yes, can be monitored remotely via the net. The cost of a "Good" PC and a "Good" card is comparable to an entry level multi channel DVR that will most likely give you better performance and reliability. Just keep in mind the fact that many companies bloat their FPS ratings per channel both on cards and recorders. Leave the PC to do what it does best, and get a DVR to do what it does best. I have used cards in the past and now use a DVR "Dedicated Unit". I learned my lesson, lol. Hope this helps............Slim.

Hello all: I've been installing, maintaining, and upgrading large scale CCTV and Access Control systems / equipment for almost 10 years. I am the Lead Surveillance Technician for a large Casino and have had a fair bit of experience in a vide variety of ever changing technologies. From experience, I have come to know what works and what doesn't. If I can help in any way to save you time or money (Tips, Tricks, Advice, Etc.), just give me a shout. I love what I do and I'm good at it. Sincerely, "Pullin' my wire" Slim........

Hi Kelvin: Try Rutherford controls website. They do make sliding door locking hardware and they are good as far as quality and reliability. Hope this helps m8.

Hey sbb: Check out some of the Kantech products. They are a Canadian company and I have used quite a bit of they're gear. Its rock solid and dependable. As far as cost.......depends what else you have been looking into. Hope this helps and good luck m8.