bryan1656

MAN.. that is pretty schweet!! What about using float glass?

.... that, and I think I may have had too much coffee today!

After what's been posted, I don't think the majority of the problem is the signal transmission, either. However, in troubleshooting, you've got to isolate and identify any problems. If the cable run and terminations weren't up to snuff, then part of the cause of the symptoms may not be that the signal wasn't there to be sent (camera or power supply problem) - it could also be that whatever there was of a 1V p-p @75Ohm signal was there was also not being efficiently transmitted due to a bad transmission path (bad cable, bad terminations). If, on the front end, the cable was known to not be as good as it should, then it needs to be fixed regardless. Wrong type coax, plus excess cable, plus poor terminations and excess connectors all contribute to signal loss - loss which can be amplified by there not having been a good solid signal to begin with coming out of the camera. Again... isolate and identify. And when you find one problem, the question is "Where is the next one?" You keep troubleshooting the system until you run out of possible problems. anyway... my two cents. Just wanted to clarify that I don't think it is just a cable issue, but that a system can often only be as good as its weakest link... and sometimes there can be more than one issue contributing or amplifying various symptoms to numerous technical issues.

trainman, If you've got a electronics background, then you'll understand the importance of matching your impedence and having good cable runs with good terminations. Youre on the right track there. (get it? trainman?... right track? I crack myself up!) Anyhoo - You mentioned a question about color versus b/w signal - trying to understand the differences in types of video signal, etc. Here'a a fairly nice run down on video that I found that you might be interested in. - Explains it better than I could, plus with pretty pictures! http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/734 HTH

Putting in a swing set... Dig down six inches for "low-impact surface treatment", prolly use mulch. Hard part is figuring out what to do with all the dirt I dig up. :argh!: Then I'll cement the posts in before I put the mulch down. Nice and sturdy and safe. For one of my next projects - I want to rip out our BS little gas fireplace and turn that space into a flush entertainment center.

Sounds like you have a camera on a door, parking lot, or walkway outdoors??? That 1/3" Sony SuperHAD should be giving you good images at night. It is hard for us to know without being able to see the picture, but... I'd first check the connections. You've got BNC to Fs which could be cleaned up using just BNCs (75Ohm). I'd bet cookies to donuts that your cam is made for RG59 instead of RG6, as well. - Either way, go with manufacturer specs. And I'd check the cable run for interference, loops, kinks, etc. I'd also check power supply - as you said, you've got a bad connection there. Yeah.. maybe a "do over" for anything between your cam and the monitor and/or recorder - focusing on connections and power supply issues. rory is right, the IR lights won't do you much good at that distance. You can either move the camera toward the target area... OR... Put up some regular old-fashioned floodlights. Visiblt light helps deter theft and vandalism, increases safety, and also helps your cameras to see well. The only reason for IR light is to avoid visible light to keep from annoying neighbors, or in some cases to monitor dark areas covertly. The vast majority of outdoor CCTV systems are best aided by visibly light which also offers many other additional benefits besides simply helping you get good video images. Basically, re-run your cable and put up some lights and see where that gets you. HTH

It's KPC stuff. What Korean Products Company, or something like that? I've used their board cams and some of their c-mounts. From what I have seen, they tend to use alot of Sony CCDs in thier low light equip. Granted, it isn't super-duper-high-end-casino-quality type CCTV stuff... just keep an eye on your tech specs. But generally, it is good kit - Surely worth a try and some benchtesting, IMNSHO.

Does anyone have any hands on with the Mul-T-Lock CLIQ stuff? I've seen the ads and it looks very interesting. http://www.mul-t-lockusa.com/newsdetails.asp?newsid=15

I don't have a particular job for it as of yet. I saw the ads and thought that it might be interesting for certain residential and small office applications.

I've seen Sensormatic using American Dynamics Intellex DVRs. I'm not sure about their cams. I may have an opportunity to have a look at Target soon and will report back if things go through as I hope.

I'll take a stab at this.. It's very difficult, if not imposible, to offer very specific equipment recommendations based on such little information. Camera selection will best be informed by exmaining a number of variables such as lighting conditions, distances, etc. A wide variety of DVRs are avaiable, but again, the best one for your situation will depend on what features are needed, what features are desired, as well as the budget that you have to work with. It is possible to design and install a system that is able to be viewed off-site, such as through the internet. Once again, the way in which this is accomplished, will depend on the purposes for doing so. Will this be used for "virtual tours" or "video verifiaction" in the case of duress alarm activation? Is it so that the owner can check up on emplyees? Or, is it more for the "gee whiz" factor? In addition to CCTV equipment, setting up CCTV for a location that is a likely target for violent crime such as armed robbery also invovles other considerations such as alarm integration, employee screening, POS procedures, environmental design, physical security imporvements, interior and exterior lighting, and many other factors. I feel I would be remiss if I did not also bring serious attention to the fact that the final recorded image quality wiill be extremely important. Employee theft notwithstanding, one of the primary purposes of a CCTV system in a convenience store setting is to provide evidence quality identification level video images. This requires a very high standard of equipment selection and installation. After a clerk has been injured or killed in a robbery is a little late to be finding out that your CCTV system wasn't good enough to provide investigators and proescutors with the information that they need to identify, apprehend, and prosecute the offender. While I respect and support folks who want to do it themselves, and I have every sympapthy for small business owners on a budget.... I feel that my most reposnsible advice in this instance would be to encourage you to find a local CCTV and security professional to assist you. At least call a few places to see what they say and get a few quotes. If it is not possible to hire a pro, or if you are still motivated to do this yourself, and do the proper research in doing it correctly - then go ahead. Many of us will do the best that we can to help, but keep in mind that it is difficult for the responsible professionals here to offer simple answers. There is no single "best system" for "convenience stores". Each store is different. Each application is different. Each of us bring to the process different answers based on our different backgrounds and prior education and experiences. VERY generally speaking... what you are looking to do is quite "doable" for a reaonable cost. Do some google searches for "CCTV cameras", and similar search terms, and you will find many online retailers. Some of them offer packages, as well as telephone tech support in choosing and installing equipment. In this way, you may be able to install a somewhat serviceable system.. However, to be done properly, and to provide the best evidence possible in the case of a violent crime, I would strongly encourage you to hire a pro. Like I said, if you are dead set on doing it yourself, then many here will do what they can to help... but don't think for a second that, even with our help, your end result will be anywhere near the level of quality that you should get if you brought in a professional to do your system. HTH

B U L L E T I N O F F I C E R S A F E T Y SOUTHERN BORDER REGION GULF COAST STATES Reports from numerous intelligence and information sources involved in the surveillance and investigation of Girl Scout’s of America (GSA) report the following: The recent GSA domination of Mexican organized crime territories previously controlled by rival criminal organizations (such as Fuentes Los Anos Nina – FLAN) has prompted rival Keebler Magic Elves (KME) to step up aggressive actions against the GSA to protect their territories and existing manufacturing and smuggling operations. Several GSA members have been observed in KME territories throughout the Continental United States, sometimes in residential areas, and often even at community Churches and schools. GSA is seeking to observe KME distribution networks and consumption. KME has been observed establishing manufacturing facilities in Mexico, and near border areas. It is anticipated that as GSA and KME encroach into each others territory seeking expansion, there will be violent incidents. This poses a significant risk to officer safety for any agents conducting enforcement actions targeting these Girl Scouts and Magic Elves. GSA members can be identified often through their distinctive display of the color green. Weapons are often concealed inside their berets and inside “cookie boxesâ€

Here's another example: Distributors of consumer goods sell at lower prices to retailers/dealers under an agreement of nondisclosure or confidentiality. I am familar with another forum, dealing with other types of goods, where a small independant retailer shared what their cost was by private message with certain members who requested it. A big name retail competitor took that information and told the distributor - who then quit selling to the smaller retailer - who was then sued for violation of various agreements and such. The small independent retailer couldn't afford to even fight the lawsuit. They had no assets. The whole point was to "sue the little guy out of business" - which they were successful in doing.

I've seen one with a 16 cam system. Seemed like good kit, to me. Here's a link to their specs.. http://www.americandynamics.net/products/intellex_DVMS.aspx

This post was made with computers!! I'm a PC / XP Pro / Mozilla guy.

my bad on the "past audio thing". It sounds like you've got good signal until the Geovision card downconverts it. I found this - http://dvr.sourceforge.net/html/main.html Really interesting topic here... keep us posted, please.

Dracon... I suspect that you may mean to say "passed audio".

Sorry to keep splitting my posts.. but I keep "havening" interuptions. Dracon, You've mentioned some high-end mics and that you are using pre-amps... but I'm not hearing anything about gain, sampling rates, frequency response, compression, or a host of other audio specific issues. For audio, you're going to have to get a good handle on sound, just like for video, you have to get a good handle on light. Here are some links - http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/digital_audio.html http://www.teamcombooks.com/mp3handbook/11.htm http://www.sparta.lu.se/~bjorn/whitney/compress.htm http://www.umdnj.edu/idsweb/idst3400/audio.htm http://www.vermontfolklifecenter.org/res_audioequip.htm http://www.transom.org/tools/basics/200207.analogbasics.html I hope this helps.

yes... good point Rory, I apologize for being US=centric

I gotta ask.. What do you mean by "past audio"?

Laws on audio intercets can be very confusing and vague. There are different rules for different situaitons, and federal law is often different than local and state laws There are several retailers who got into some trouble by selling cameras with audio built in, and there have been numerous installers who have run afoul of the law. It comes down to local laws, and various federal judicial districts interpretation of one's reasonable expectation of privacy. Listening to conversation is different than one's reasonable expectation to privacy from being seen. Look... I'm not an attorney. Anyone thinking of installing any kind of audio equipment needs to consult with a local private attorney to get some clear guidelines.. as well as to keep them updated each year on any changes in the relevant statutes. USC Title 18 PArt I Chapter 119 Section 2511 and 2512 http://straylight.law.cornell.edu/uscode/html/uscode18/usc_sec_18_00002511----000-.html Some relevant case cites FOR YOUR ATTORNEY TO LOOK UP - United States v. John BRIO, Steve Alon N0. 97-4143 - United States v. The SPY FACTORY, INC, Ronald Kimball, Marlin Richardson and Tracy Ford No. S 1 95 cr 737 (SS) - United States v. Richard Lee BAST and Redex Corporation, No. 72-2132

I don't yet mainly because I can't afford it, yet. But I'm working on that!

Sorry for the derail of topic, here....BUT kaysadeya, - Why, in your new sig, are you referring to yourself as a "luser"? From your posts, I'd say you were in the User category fersure, and not a luser at all. A good example of a luser came up for me the other day. luser: "All I know is that at home with a Word document, all I have to do is click on 'send to mail recipient' and I can send it - but here at work, I can't. When I asked the computer guy about it, he tried telling me something about how email outside the office is the internet or something, but that inside the office is not the internet, so I can't do it that way and have to click on a paperclip thingy. When he showed me how to do it, he explained a bunch of stuff to me that was, like, click here and here and here and wait for this, and I'm like... I don't know how to do that. I don't know computers. I don't want to know computers. I just know my job and that is all I want to know, I just want to do what I need to do and not all of this computer stuff. Why can't he just make that work, or explain it all to me without all of the stuff that I don't want to know." Of course, when someone at the office asked he if her problem got fixed, the luser talked a bunch of smack about how it didn't get fixed and how the computer guy didn't explain anything to her. Really, kay... you don't strike me as a luser. I know I made the referrence a while back in another post, but I want to make it clear that I *did not* have you in mind when I did so.

Cooperman, I'm with you. I wasn't precise enough when I asked. "What side of the house will the cam need to be mounted on?". I was looking for exactly the info you mentioned. Thanks for the suggestion, though. Direction is a VERY important factor sometimes!! PoorOwner, based *soley* on what you've posted (and please correct me if I've misunderstood or failed to appreciate anything): The footprints didn't approach and linger at a window or door. So, I see no reason to suspect a "peeping tom"/sexual offender, nor a burglar doing some "window shopping". You also don't describe any harassment, inappropriate contacts or communications, vandalism, or other similar activity. So, I see no reason to suspect any stalking activity. You've got a motion detector flood which I assume is sufficient to illuminate your 20'x40' backyard area. This sounds good, especially since you also have a similar floodlight on a photo sensor to illuminate the area during hours of darkness. Generally, lighting helps deter night time prowlers by denying them concealment and providing a sense of being observed. Motion detecror lights add to the deterrence significantly. They also provide for safety when using the area at night, allowing you to see. If utility cost is a concern, then you should be able to add another switch fairly easily, or add a motion detector to that light, as well. Personally, whether to leave the light on all night is up to you. Night prowlers are generally rare. Most burglars case during the day. Unless you have other specific security concerns or systems needs causing you to need the light on all night, then I'd say you'd be fine putting that light on a motion detector w/ indorr switch. this would enable it to turn on with motion, as well as allow you to turn it on when you wanted to look outside, or go out into the yard. When you switch to a complete motion/switch activated system - it may be a good idea to upgrade some of your exterior lighting to a higher wattage light. If it isn't on all the time, then it won't be a concern on the electric bill, or for shining in the neighbors windows - but it will provide more light for you and yor cameras. I dont' generally recommend more than a 6" privacy fence. A fence can provide privacy and safety (especially with young kids), but they can also create a sense of privacy for burglars, as well. If deterrence is your main focus (pun intended, there) then some "dummy cameras/domes" might be a very cost effective alternative for you. I've seen them work very well in some situaitons. But to serve as a deterrent, you've got to draw attention to the CCTV. You are exactly right, for CCTV to serve as a deterrent, the bad guys have to know about it. But will there be any neighborhood kids who might be inspired to prank the guy on the corner with all the video surveillance? This will be a judgement that you'll have to make. Generally, security signage is a very good idea and serves as a strong deterrent. For a maximum of 40' - I'd say most of the more affordable weatherproof cams that are "infinty" focused should be fine for your purposes and desire to stay within a tight budget. You could upgrade to 480 lines horizontal resolution (or greater) and see a dramatic increase in picture quality, provided there was enough light. If you wanted to get a good identification level image of anyone at the rear door or other vulnerable ingress point, then you could add a camera there with a tight FOV. That's not a recommendation, mind you, just a "if you wanted to". Again, based solely on the little information you posted... if you were my client, I'd tell you that your current camera is at least a camera, which is good. Let's see if you continue to have problems with people coming in the yard and see what the video picks up on, if anything. Until then, save a little money away to possibly use for upgrading your camera later, if the need arises. - OR - In the meantime, that money might be better spent going towards installing or updating your alarm, addressing physical security with your doors and windows, or possibly putting in some barrier planting with any place where the area kids like to climb the fence. anyway... my two cents - I hope this helps - Other opinions are welcomed and encouraged!

just to add: PoorOwner... You've mostly posted about specific needs such as a night cam for back yard... but it is really difficult to make any specific suggestions without knowing more. For instance, if you were a possible client and I went out to consult with you, I'd be asking some of the following questions and looking at some of the following issues based on your report of an outdoor intruder and your desire for outdoor video surveillance: What kind of activity is going on? Where is it taking place? How big is the yard? What are it's dimensions? Where would the camera's need to be mounted? How high from the ground? At what angle to the primary area of interest? How far from the primary area of interest? What side of the house will the cam need to be mounted on? Are there any trees, shrubs, or nearby structures creating any shading considerations? What is the lighting environment at night? Are there nearby street lights, etc.? Do you already have any groundlighting or other ornamental/security lighting in place? What is needed from the CCTV? Detection, Orientation, Recognition, Identification, what? Will it be monitored? triggered on motion? triggered on alarm? Is there an intrusion detection system? What about physical security improvements? Would repairing a fence, or securing a gate, or a barrier palnting, etc. contribute to area denial? Really.. the list goes on and on.... The problem could be addressed well with an inexpensive day/night weatherproof dome camera(s) and some exterior lighting - or the sitation might call for a C/CS mount low light cam with a varifocal auto iris zoom lens and custom built IR illuminator along with planting some thorny shrubs, repairing a fence, and installing some low voltage lighting out in the back yard. For the sake of arguement, let's say both solutions cost exactly the same and fit in your budget. Without setting foot on your property and discussing your needs, it is difficult for anyone to recommend even a narrow range of specific equipment items that would be "best" for you. IMNSHO, security is a process, not an assembly of techno doo-dads. I think we are all trying to help here... but we are all tending to hear different things from you and making differnt leaps according to our own personal experience and making different recommendations based on what each of us is envisioning...based on limited written information from you via the errornet...... in then end.. what many of us my adivise here could be very different than what we told you of we were able to see the target area and talk to you in person.