kaysadeya

It's illegal, so don't know.

The camera has very good night vision. But there are three IR illuminators (UF100, UF500, and built-in) converging on the car, so it’s hard to get a gauge on the effectiveness of the built-in illuminators. So bright, I gotta wear shades...

I just installed a WPX-2330: http://www.intellicamusa.com/daynightarmor.htm The purpose of the camera is to cover a single car from a distance ranging from about 10 to 20 feet, so the location is a fairly unchallenging. I tested the IR function in a dark room and it appears to be good. Won’t know for sure until tonight how well it works for the site, though. The daytime color is a bit “washed-outâ€

Don't be so sure. Have you ever seen what just 5 angry nerds can do to a computer room?

Given the choice, I’d rather be victimized by a gun than a machete.

I can't comment on the 'shielded' question other than to say that you want to get copper shielding -- the more copper the better. Others here know a lot more about this, so we should wait to hear from them...

I *live* at The Depot. You're not going to find what you need there. Your only resource is mail order.

Also true in residential. Can't be avoided.

This is good stuff: http://www.spytown.com/wespen28siam.html

On the subject of backyard (and front-yard) deterrence…. PoorOwner, I’m in a worse situation than you with my backyard because there’s no fence on one side and there’s a gap in the fence on the other side. There’s also no fence between the front yard and the backyard. The reason for this is to allow the deer to roam freely through our yard. My wife won’t even consider the idea of fencing our yard, so that’s not an option. So the objective with my installation is to have a very obvious CCTV presence in the back and side yards, but a low profile in the front. I have five standard cameras in housings covering various angles in the back, two standard/housing cameras on one side, and an older B&W bullet covering the other side, which is less exposed to through traffic. Because we have deer passing through our yard day and night and we want to be good hosts to the deer and not annoy our neighbors, it’s not practical to use motion-activated floods. So I installed two VITEK VT-IR1-110 illuminators, which are perfect for the job. They have a 65 deg spread and two cover the periphery of the backyard very well. When something goes bump-in-the-night, we can check the cameras to see whether it was a deer, raccoon, skunk, or some sort of malicious teenage bipod. Thankfully it’s almost never the latter, but knowing that is the objective. Keeping a low profile in the front yard is more challenging because that’s where quality images are the most important. In the front, I have two Samsung 721 CS-style day/night cameras in Pelco housings. To make the setup even “louder,â€

Whaaaaaaaa!!!! sniff, sniff...

This link is of interest: http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=11049&highlight=copper#11049 I guess it was bryan1656 and AVCONSULTING who clued me on the importance of copper braiding.

Does it have copper braiding? Cooperman can fill you in on the importance of copper braiding for transmitting CCTV signals.

Others here would be in better position to comment, but my guess is, if the city requires a permit for low-voltage wiring, the answer would be yes. Strictly speaking, any time you run new cable you'd need an inspection.

Sounds like a well-armed group here. My weapon of choice is a soldering iron. "One more move mister and I'll burn a hole in your ski cap...."

Some would say good Karma is worth more than money. (Of course, those same people who wouldn’t give up a six-pack for any amount of your Karma.)

See?!! Another "dealers only" topic!!! Can someone at least provide the retail price for us mortals?

Easier said than done. It's one of my earlier Mad Scientist projects and the camera is “embeddedâ€

Rory, I have a B&W board camera that's completely blind to IR light. It’s a covert outdoor camera mounted behind a sheet of special glass originally designed for photographic use with enlargers. Either the glass itself is filtering the IR light or the camera doesn’t pick it up. I've had if for about 6 years and have long forgotten the brand and specs.

Ok, changed it. Back to the topic....

I haven't gotten offsite networking to work yet either, but you'll need to set the DHCP setting just exactly perfectly right. The manual won't help you though.

Good stuff bryan1656!

You're correct to be concerned about B&W in bright lighting situations. In my system, I’ve found that my B&W cams just can’t deal with lighting that is half sunlit and half shade. Smear all over the place! I have color cams (regular, not day/night) that cover the same area and they perform much better under the same lighting situation. My B&W cams have a lot of adjustment options, so I’m hoping that I have yet to discover the correct combination. (It’s just that my cams are about 15 feet in the air and the terrain underneath is very “ladder hostile,â€

Yes, the built-in LEDs on most day/night camera should illuminate your area. If you need more, you can add an inexpensive LED illuminator. Also keep in mind that IR LEDs burn out long before the camera does.

If you can get a card that will work on your existing computer, then that's probably the best way to start. I was upgrading from a timelapse VCR and was looking for something a bit more powerful. When I was researching PC-based solutions, the GeoVision cards seemed the way to go, but my existing computer (which has plenty of power for most things) was not powerful enough to host a GeoVision card. I calculated the cost of a new computer and the GeoVision card would be more than a dedicated DVR. Plus, I’d need to spend even more for another card to get a real-time display, which is a feature I think most dedicated DVRs have as standard.