DVR MAN

Thanks all! I just located a viewer on line. It opens &converts. I do not know why my DVR software did not have viewer software. It just had network software that would not open a file that was on a USB drive. Thanks again.

Thanks guys, but none of the above opened my .DVR files so far. The .DVR files generated by the recorder are SUPPOSED to be win. compatible.

Whether it is or is not .00004 lux remains to be seen. I will find out! If it is not, it will go back. I will say that they advertise that one of their small bullets (CFB6021EX) at .0003 lux @ f 2.0 is for real. I have 3 of them. They see in moonlight, and if there is any I/R around, they are better than my 3895s.

I bought one of the 140 LED models. I milled 2 slots in the bottom to allow fan air to circulate from the rear to the front around the LEDs. I have a foam block in the center of the lower case against the circuit board to separate the airflow, and bug screens over the slots. I also added a 25 watt rheostat at the power supply to adj. illumination. I have not installed the thing yet. I will post how well/bad it does.

CPC4040WD SONY 1/3" 3RD GEN SS111-WD sensor. B&W/I/R (.00004 LUX B/W, .001 LUX COLOR) From SCD. I will order a Computar I/R lens as soon as I figure out which one I want. I will report how it is. WOW! it will take a few weeks for the lens to come

My two cameras are still fine. They are running 24/7 outside. They have experienced temp. variations from 12 degrees to over 100 degrees, rain and snow without any issues.

I just ordered a Magnepull. It consists of a roller with a strong magnet in it, and a smaller magnet with a lead on it. You drill a hole in a wall, insert the small magnet (with a chord attached) and roll the roller down the wall and the magnet follows it. You can even "pull" wires under rugs with it. You can see a video of it on some sites. I think this thing will cut pull time in half. Google Magnepull and ck it out!

I tried the puller under our wall to wall carpet today. No problems. The magnets are tenacious! I believe that this unit will work as described. This is a tremendous time saver.

I agree about top plates, but this innovation sure beats previous alternatives. If the thing pulls cable under carpet, the insulation should not prove to be an issue. I just ordered yesterday, so it will not be here until Tue/Wed. I will follow up with a post after trying it.

Have you measured the voltage at the end of the run where the camera is connected? Also try measuring it at the camera when the I/R is active. It sounds like you are OK in daylight, but that when the I/R is on the camera pulls more than the supply has. Try running a temporary supply to the camera and see if that changes anything. What supply are you using? How many cameras are hooked to it? What is the current draw on each camera with I/R active?

I have two of the 3895s. They work great for me right out of the box with no alteration of the factory settings. I even took the silica out of one to see if it would fog. No fog detected in months of use. I did assure that the area where the wire enters was sealed properly, and made sure that the body was screwed on tight after focusing.

It all depends on the type of compression that your DVR or time laps recorder is using, and the recording resolution and speed. Add this info to your post, and you will reap results. You can also check security sites and look for a calculator that will tell you what size drive you will need. You fill in the blanks, and it will calculate drive size. I would think a 500 Gig drive woulld cover it, and then some.

Please check the Federal and state laws regarding sound recording. The "bad guys" may end up owning you!

You may decide to go with all 24 volt AC cameras if you cannot return the supply. Good luck!

The site where I bought my 3859N-L's state that the SD21N-l is the replacement. The dif. is the wider lens.

You may be able to exchange your power supply for their 12 volt DC supply. If you do, I suggest that you get the fused version, and replace the output fuse for said camera with a fuse that suits that camera. Then if there is a problem, that output will blow the fuse and possibly save the camera. With DC voltage, you must have the ( + ) output going to the plus wire on the camera and the negative wire going to the negative wire on the camera. Usually that means that ( + ) positive goes to the center contact on the camera connector and the ( - ) negative wire goes to the outer connector. Or if there are only wires coming out of the camera, the positive wire should be marked positive. The remaining wire will be ( - ) negative.

I bet that if you read the install manual, you will see 12 to 24 Volt DC ! I have seen 12-24 volt AC cameras. I have seen 12 Volt DC, or 24 Volt AC. I have also seen cameras state 12-24 volt DC in spec's, then when you read the whole manual you may find that that particular model is only 12 OR 24 volt DC. Please check before smoking another camera. Good luck!

Wow! Are they legit? I have seen some specs on the Extremes that seem to have limited I/R distance. Then they seem to go the other way on some with bodacious distance. Either way, they were way more expensive than the Nuvicos. Maybe the above individual should try both with his client present, then they can make an educated decision.

Yes, pleas take a look in my ebay store. You will find a laser pointer that kills camera's from a large distance. you will need a stable hand to pin point direct in the lens. A normal red laser will harm the ccd, but a high output laser will almost kill it direct. Can be a expensive joke Specially wen you are a installer and you have to replace 10 new camera's. a special lens is not enviable , and must be hand mate. Lasers can also kill photo camera ccd's, lot of club/disco party photograph have a problem whit expensive replacements of there ccd, be corse a laser from a laser show hits the ccd. (ps. i sell lasers, not to kill Cd's but for small laser shows) Please be advised that Jamming cell phones is a federal offense in the United States.

I like the Nuvico line. I run two of the 3895L type and have had great results. I lube the rear O ring, and assure that the RTV at the cable entrance is sound. I have had no water issues. Rory had issues with flare when there was a light source in front of the cam at night. My cams are looking into an area with no background lights. You are the one that must make the choice regarding value versus price. The Extreme line are super but you must have the budget and need to justify them. I find the illumination on the Nuvicos to be excellent. Far better then the illumination on a camera that I have that cost $125.00 more than the Nuvico, and is about three times larger to boot!

The camera feeds will act as antennas for stray voltage radiation. I would think coax with surge suppressors for each camera may work along with the above mentioned tips.

Most likely a resistor would work for each remaining output but It would be easier to just beef up the wire gage for the one problem camera. There would be a spiderweb of resistor leads to contend with on an otherwise clean output terminal strip (unless the resistors were added @ the cameras). It would be very easy to have shorts unless all were heat shrinked.

I would try setting the supply at 12.5 Volts. Then measure the voltage at the end of the farthest drop. If it is within tolerance you are OK. If not, run larger gage wire to the farthest drop to comp for the voltage drop. I personally have a supply similar to what you have described, and I set the output to 12.5 VDC. I would also change the fuse for that output to 500 or 750MA. Then your camera would have a better chance of survival in case a problem arises.

Try placing the lens against the glass, or better yet, make a short tube out of Styrofoam or sponge rubber that will fit the OD of the lens. Paint it flat black and slide it over the front of the lens and mount it flat against the glass. The tube should stop the reflection of the I/R in the glass.

I believe that supply uses circuit breakers. Your cameras are safer with the fused version. I have the fused version, and replaced the 3.5 amp fuse with one that matches the camera that is hooked to it. The glass fuses blow fast which will cause lass damage to the camera. The PID resets and can hammer the camera with 3.5 Amps repeatedly. You will love the way the power inputs are constructed. Just loosen 2 screws, and a four camera plug is ready to wire to (4 inputs/plug/4 plugs). Then plug it back into the supply and tighten the 2 retaining screws. It's your choice!