ShaneR

A lot of ifs, and may not work, but if that camera has mjpeg as it's format, and if you want to try to get it to work you could try yawcam software for computers. It's free and has motion detection. A very quick Google search says it may work with some iP cameras. I use it on USB cameras and it worked alright. Who knows. All depends if your like me and hate to give up money or just like convenience.

Never a problem, have any questions or any design ideas you want me to try just let me know. I hope that the FW1 works for your needs as it would be immensely cheaper lol. And yeah, I was thinking of trying to have the wiper move but it would be too expensive or too flimsy to get it reliable. This is design 2 actually, the first design had the dome flange angle down at a 45 to help rain runoff, it also had top and bottom bearings for a more solid fit against the wiper with the motors vertical running on the inside of the dome itself. Would put less strain on the motors and you could probably get away with just 2 motors. But realizing after getting it mostly designed that almost every part would be custom I tried to find a dome that was somewhat cheap and would fit the bill. So I just picked that one and designed around it. After finishing that one I figured what's the cheapest I could think to make it. The tube was an obvious choice, and keeping the wiper hidden is actually a great idea. Pardon the drop in 3d quality sadly while at work I don't have access to my cad program. It probably won't make much sense but basically a wiper with a motor that transfers rotational motion to linear motion. Not drawn but some kind of track system to keep the wiper in line as well as maybe when it's in the far retracted position to lift it off of the glass. I imagine that you could build this with just a box and have it work the same way. Of course you could also just use a standard car wiper system of back and forth. Just providing options and ideas

so this is my basic design, really just how I would do it if I had the need. I based it off of using this dome https://plastic-domes-spheres.com/shop/12-clear-acrylic-hemisphere in theory it would have a control board that would tell the 4 stepper motors to spin, the motors have a rubber grommet which rides against the bottom of the dome flange. the retention ring has ball bearings to reduce binding and allow for a secure fit. the base assembly has a taper to allow rain water to drain away from the camera. in between the dual wiper blades is a sprayer, could be done way simpler but I liked how sleek this looked personally. however in designing this its come to my attention that it wont be a very cost effective solution due to the cost in materials. plus a issue that you will have placing the camera in any kind of enclosure will be condensation building on the inside of the dome. this is usually offset by the manufacturer putting heaters inside the housing so you will have to look at that option as well. the only way I can think of to make a relatively cheap housing would be to use a tube similar to this https://www.webstaurantstore.com/san-jamar-l360c-stainless-steel-large-in-counter-trash-chute/712L360C.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwta49Mau2gIVSeDICh2jsQlWEAQYBSABEgIbpfD_BwE and place either flat 6" or a dome of acrylic or other material. building a device to wipe the flat lens would be pretty simple, but I think if you tried to add a wiper to the 6" dome it would obstruct the view too much due to the more narrow dome. just some thoughts as I was working. if you want any other views or want dimensions I can provide them.

In further reading, a possible Gmail fix could be this https://www.google.com/settings/security/lesssecureapps (you have to be logged in to the account first. Information pulled from this website https://www.hkvstar.com/technology-news/motion-detection-email-alarm-setting-for-ip-camera-dvr-nvr.html

No problem, I'll try to mock something up tonight or tomorrow. My idea would be essentially something that fits over the whole camera, rather than trying to mess with the cameras dome. I'll keep you posted. What are the general dimensions of the camera you want to use?

My best guess, is port forwarding set up on the router and modem? Are the pictures of the app used to control the camera or did you direct connect to the cameras ip address? More information on what the camera is, how its set up would be helpful

Pe=power earth=grounding the system to the earth L=live=hot wire N=nuetral Not sure on baluns personally

From what I can tell about the ptz it uses proprietary "coaxitron" system which Transmits controls and video via 1 bnc cable. Only issue is I don't have or wish to purchase the ~$400 receiver that decodes the signal and sends it to the camera. The camera has wires coming off of it that link to left, right, up, down, ground (24vac) on the ptz motors and zoom, focus, iris, ground (12vdc) on the camera. The "coaxitron system 2000" has a basic 8 way joystick as well as 3 toggles for the other features. So the idea would be to essentially direct wire all functions manually. It looks like it is set up for rs422 controls but also has manual zoom iris and focus which makes a standard rs422 connection impossible. So I would either be forced to buy a receiver that sends all the data thru one Cable or buy a 10 conductor wire and send it all on its own wire. As this is an older camera the ptz functions will not be used all too much as attempting to interface them with a smart program or a wireless control device will be very difficult even with the proper coaxitron system. So it will act as a non-ptz camera until I get bored and want to manually control it if I was actually concerned about any type of break-in or the such I would invest in a simple home security system, but this is more to have a project to mess around with as the camera was completely free, along with a separate newer ptz camera that came with a receiver box that will have a much more usable purpose.

I have a coax cable that runs from my garage (where I am looking to put my analog camera) into my house (connecting to the modem) it "T's" off in the middle to go to the telephone pole to the cable provider, and I was wondering if it would be possible to attach a splitter at the house side to connect to a dvr. Would this be possible? Would two signals on the same wire garble them both? Would it slow down the internet speeds or cause dropped packets? Could the video signal go back to the cable company? The garage and house are around 150 feet apart so running a cable can be done but would require more effort.

Curses, well thanks for the Info, ill probably just run a new line along the same coax line. As for cable, all I get when I search is cheap bnc siamese Power cables, I don't need the power aspect as the camera is powered locally and I will need to run a separate 10 wire cable for the ptz control. Is there any place where I can get a reasonably priced bnc cable? All the solo-bnc cables I've found were easily $60 more than the siamese versions. I understand that quality is important, but it's only 1 camera at 480p.

What I use is called FW1, no special reason, it's just what I bought and it's convenient being spray on. But here's a video comparing a bunch of waxes it looks like ceramic might be a good route for longevity. Another option if cost isn't a factor is a fixed wiper blade system that some cameras use. http://xstreamdesigns.com/features/self-cleaning/ it might be a pretty simple item to make yourself if you are engineerically inclined. If you are interested I can always draft up some 3d models on how I would do it.

So you know you can have ip cameras set up and just place them on their own internal (non internet connection) network so it doesn't overwork your router. Ip cameras - > separate wireless router -> nvr/computer As long as you don't hook the camera router to your main router it won't bog down your network. It would also allow a little more security for the system as it is a closed loop with no access to the internet. I am not sure how long you wish to keep the recordings for but assuming you keep 12 camera recordings at 30fps 720p for 3 weeks you will need anywhere from 3tb to 10tb depending on many factors. For 11 more cameras that's about £330 if they cost £30 each. 3tb (cctv purple) hdd would cost £70. 16ch dvr is around £140 Depending on distance of the cameras you could require 2 wireless routers with a minimum of 70mbps speeds on 2.4ghz which are about £50 each. In my opinion I wouldnt think online streaming would be possible with such low speeds. Any attempt to connect that much data to the network would just tank your connection even possibly crash your modem constantly. I am by no means a professional, I only went to Google and looked up specs and recommendations from others. Others may know a better way to set this up, this is just how I am seeing it going.

I believe you need a capture card in order to pull up the video. There are bnc to usb capture cards out there, I would do a lot research as you get what you pay for.

I am not 100% sure but I believe that camera needs an internet connection in order to share the screen with your phone. At the very least it would need a network set up in your car, something wireless that you phone would have to connect to in order to view the feed. My best bet would be to look up what drone pilots do to use these style cameras for live feed. You might be able to find a cheaper one that they recommend too.

So the main issue that I see is that trying to mount ir lights inside of a vehicle is that ir light reflects off of glass surfaces. So you won't be able to see anything or it will be really washed out. If you can find a way to mount the lights externally and turn off the camera's ir lights it would work better.

You may have better luck in the classifieds forum viewforum.php?f=22

I would suggest getting a car wax product and applying it to the dome. It will help a lot with dust and water and might even help with the bird droppings. Usually you should only have to re-apply it every few months. I've only ever used it on my car windshield to avoid using my windshield wipers, works like a charm and rain just beads off. I would imagine that on a stationary camera it would last a lot longer.

So I found this old PTZ in my garage and decided I wanted to try to get it to work. After a bunch of research and individually tracing wires I got it powered on and showing video. Have not been able to control it yet due to issues with a geovision net I/O card that I'm having, but on top of the TX +/- and Rx +/- cables coming out of it there are also single wires that trace back to Iris and Focus. In order to control these do I need to to hook them up to the control card somewhere? Or what do I not have to worry about them. On a side note does anyone know if you need a geovision capture card in order to use a geovision net I/O. I have tried many different operating systems and I can't get the drivers for USB to load.

Not sure exactly. Only thing I have to go off of is current used prices. Only other camera of the same design is going for ~$800. The controller looks to be around $150 and the receiver is looking like $400. That's gonna be way too much to try to get this camera working the "correct" way. Worse comes to worse I'll just build an adifruit dongle that outputs volts to each of the wires separately.

Upon further investigation I also see it can be controlled via "coaxitron" connection which is described as "By utilizing vertical blanking intervals, pulses are superimposed over the normal video signal, enabling video and control signals transmissions over the same cable." it looks like the Pelco coaxitron system 2000 is the perfect match for the camera with separate toggles for zoom, focus, and iris.

If my googling has lead me down the right path, they are addressed and controlled conventionally by a video matrix switching control system that uses CM9700-SER-32's which have to have addresses assigned to them, which I assume are assigned a range of addresses counting up based on their number of ports. At least that's how I interpret it. It's not all to big an issue for me as it will only be this one camera on the system

Does anyone know if I can use the "out" wires of the card to control the zoom/focus/iris on a pelco camera? I have a wire for each function and a lens ground. Would I be able to configure it to apply 12v to each function individually and flip voltage to bring it back the other way?

The only manual I could find doesn't mention it. https://usermanual.wiki/Pelco/PelcoDd08InterceptDomeC290MA699UsersManual441235.966873749/pdf As soon as it boots up it goes directly to the image. It was built in 98.maybe they didn't implement multi-camera setups?

A year late and a dollar short, but from what I've researched the 650/800 doesn't play nice with 64 bit. Do you know If it was 64 bit win7 when you had it installed in your business?

So thru painstaking process I traced every wire and found out a few things. I have a "Common" wire (I assume ground?) that I am not sure where it connects to unless it's to ground on the controller. Left on the dome assembly correlates to RXD+ Left=RXD+ Right=TXD- Up=RXD- Down=TXD- Is this how it's supposed to be? I always thought rx and tx were receive and transmit. There are also wires for iris, focus, and zoom with a single wire for lens ground. So if I want to adjust these values would I have to split the lens ground or can I just attach it to regular ground? A little cheat someone showed me to see if the zoom and focus work is to hook the + and - to a 9v battery, works like a charm. I am not seeing any changes when I try Iris, the screen just goes black for a few seconds.