mikesus

Thanks Coolie11 and Kenplace. A high res camera would be my best option then? I'm open to suggestions. WV-CP484 Like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200228793730&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=010

Traffic thru a front gate. Distance is about 75'. Due to the building location and trees, this is the best vantage point i could find. What you need is a decent camera... Try the WV-CP484... You will end up spending some bux, but you will get a lot better image. PM Me, if you want one, I have an extra that is NIB.

Brand new in the box with owner's manual, Sanyo VCC-4594 Color CCD Security Camera. 1/3" CCD High Resolution Day/Night Camera (color+B/W) Super high-resolution of 520 horizontal TV lines Intelligent back light compensation High performance with minimum required illumination of 0.03 lx (F 1.2 lens in B/W mode) Digital signal processing (DSP) for sharper, clearer color images $99 + $10 shipping Conus

Yes I still have it. Google is your friend. IT is a BOX Camera, it would need a housing to be waterproof. And please don't send PM's asking all kinds of questions when you don't have any money. So no I will not take $50 for it. I will use it first. You can't get a decent Bullet camera for this price...

Slingbox is simple stupid to use, so it depends on what the audience is. For the non techie wife, it works great.

A couple of folks have asked who it was that was trying to sell the fake Pelco enclosures. I was going to write it off as his mistake, until he told me the reason that he listed knockoff enclosures as Pelco was for "Searching" and he continues to trade of the Pelco name to sell his knockoff stuff. Here is the original listing: Note it doesn't say its not Pelco, new or used etc. link Does Pelco even make a bullet cam like this? Pelco bullet link? And this controller sure doesn't look like Pelco either Fake pelco controller link He does troll around here too, so be careful if you risk dealing with him.

He does post here... That's my point...

Well for us folks that are trying to set up a home setup, we are on budgets. We have learned a lot here, and we have found brand name stuff on Ebay from reputable sellers. (I have 3 Panasonic CP484's that I got for the retail price of 1, and 2 of them were brand new. 1 was from a company that gets lost shipments, and the others were from a wholesale lot buyer) So, yes it can be how things are, but this guy is deliberately trying to mislead folks, and has no qualms about doing it. Very Shady...

Well he also lurks around here, and thats why I thought it would be ok. But after looking at his feedback, you can see that he has done it a few times...

Deal fell thru, make me an offer?

OK, I have looked at a bunch of the threads of folks that have tried to do this. But I couldn't find anyone trying to do it with the combo of lens/Camera that I have. I am getting a 20-100 Tamron to go with my WV-CP484. (yes I need 100 for the distance) The setup is as follows: about 3 houses down is a "T" intersection with a stop sign. I plan on going for the cars leaving (North Carolina only has rear plates) and aiming at the right lane. What settings should I start with on the camera? There is a streetlight there so I don't know if I will need IR lighting. (The reason for this is that our local police are unable to catch a group of folks that are breaking into cars and houses, as their best response time is 20 (YES 20!) Minutes. So of course bad guys are long gone. They are hitting in the wee hours as to attract as little attention as possible. At this point, grabbing ANY vehicle info will be a help, and grabbing their plate will be ideal. As I sit near the chokepoint for our street, it makes sense to try to grab vehicle info from my vantage point, plus I get to play with cameras )

You are close, the first 6 is a G. Now in the video, its very easy to read, that single frame was one of the worse ones. I guess I will have to try an illuminator, as the only thing visible at night is a little bit of the plate light, and the tail lights. Everything else is black. (I still haven't mounted the camera yet as I just had a Heart Cath done, so all playing around has been on a tripod about 3-4ft lower than the actual mount point. [ quote=Scruit] When testing I like to show pictures of the license plates to someone who doesn't know the number. It's easy to read a fuzzy plate if you know the number - try it with a number you don't know! FYI, the plate you provided appears to be (blank)A6 Y60 The illuminator I use is is a 100' rated ebay cheapie. Of course it's actually only good for about 40-50 of visible illimunation, but it lights up a license plate perfectly well up to 100'. My 'killzone' is about 100' from the camera. Also, when I first got the illuminator the built-in light sensor (to turn off the illimator during the day) was WAY too sensitive and resulted in a 30 min period during twilight where ambient light was not too dim to light up the plate, but the illuminator was still off. I opened it up and blcoked the light sensor with electrical tape - and it's fine now. I have a couple of spare plates that I use for focus adjustment, but learned very quickly that reading a stationary plate is MUCH easier than a moving one. Don't call you config 'good' until you can read the plates of moving cars...

Well the daytime image is good, the problem is night time. I think I am going to have to put up an IR light of some sort, problem is that its about 100' or so to the intersection... Ideas? The image below is about the worse case scenario, the car drove about down the middle thats why its so far over to the left.

Depending on the lens it will work with little light. It is B/W Here are the specs: # 1/ 3" CCD image sensor with approx. 270,000 picture elements # More than 400 TV lines of horizontal resolution # Minimum required illumination of 0.07 Lux with F1.2 lens # Center-zone light measuring backlight compensation # Electronic iris (indoor use) # Line lock # 24 V AC operation (electrically isolated)

Simon is quick on the alternate screen displays. See the pic below. I opted against the HDOP and precision info as I was looking more towards accident info if needed. So the display is : >Line 1 Time & Date (in MM/DD/YY format) Prefer Date on Left Time on Right >Line 2 Lat & Lon (as shown in manual) >Line 3 Speed (in MPH) & Heading (in degrees) There was no extra charge for these modifications.

Why go through the trouble? you can get a battery powered portable DVD that will take video in. Yes its smaller than 12" but it fits on one hand easily.

Of course, and that point is well taken. Absolutely. As this is being funded by ME that is not an option... I will give it a shot as it is a WDR camera, and might be up to the task... Thanks for the tips!

I can definately say that if you don't have a good signal in, the compression makes it much worse. When I switched to a WV-CP484 I found that I was getting images that are just as good as daytime.

No supplier, it was used once, (prolly to catch the guy's wife ) He had a decent rating and no one was looking at it so I made him an offer... The cheapest I have seen it is about slightly under MSRP of $199 I do have a quad that I could put in the car that does a PIP type display, that could be interesting.... Hmmm...

Try www.hotwire.com Might not be the best place but you will prolly find one...

Wow. The video you posted looks better than 12FPS. Good deal! I might give it a try with my ECL596 (once I got the fogging to stop, its a decent camera!) That or maybe I'll keep the Sanyo and go all out with a box cam... Decisions, decisions.

I must have missed the name of the better and cheaper product you were talking about... Well I know when I see a post with spelling errors, I always take it as gospel And I kinda doubt you could get it cheaper than I did. Got the DVR, plus a exview camera and NiMH battery pack for $100. So where is it cheaper?

Don't necessarily intend on using it in court, but I looked at the video that you used in court and it didn't have hdop on it, so I am confused, why would it be required? In our day and age a digital readout is gospel ( I know it means squat) But that is what folks think. My dad used to work in metrology for a large auto maker, and he had a boss that told them they had to use the digital meters cuz they were more accurate, meanwhile they actually were less accurate than some of the analog stuff As to the 2-3 mb, is that because you have it set on motion or? And whats the largest memory card you can put in it? I was thinking about getting a 4gb but wasn't sure if it took sd only or could handle sdhc...

I just ordered one from Simon and requested the following Line 1 Time & Date (in MM/DD/YY format) Prefer Date on Left Time on Right Line 2 Lat & Lon Line 3 Speed (in MPH) & Heading This request was not a problem per Simon. So for a bit over $200 you can get a complete solution including active antenna. FYI - He does indicate that it takes an extra 5 -10 days for special requests. Here is an example video of what he offers. http://www.blackboxcamera.com/pic-osd/clips/display_example.wmv

I need to mount to a porch overhang (no not the building, the overhang. So I need ideally to mount to the top of the enclosure. That or use a C shaped mount. All the J mounts have a huge loop below them and would not look great there... Ideas?