Cortian

First question: What are you trying to achieve? That will determine what kind of cameras you need and how many. Second question: Is there a particular reason you want an analog system, as opposed to IP cameras? Third question: What do you consider to be "average cost?"

Aside from NVR compatibility, when I did my research I found the low-light camera to beat is still the Dahua IPC-HDW5231R-ZE 2MP Starlight. Outdoor usage: Check. Good low-light performance: Check. PoE: Check. $100-$200 USD: Check. It's manual pan/tilt. It has motorized zoom. I'll be using mine with Synology NAS Surveillance Station software... maybe. (Their notification mechanism is currently thoroughly broken. If they don't get it fixed, I'll have to find another solution.) N.B.: I have not installed this camera yet. It's wintertime, here, and I don't feel like hacking on our vinyl soffits and crawling through the attic in sub-freezing temperatures, or tracking snow, slush and mud all over creation.

Before going to the expense of PTZ cameras ask yourself if you'll actually use the functionality. To my way of thinking they're primarily useful in live monitoring situations, or situations where you're receiving motion or other notifications and may wish to PTZ remotely. Other than that it's mainly useful during setup, then you don't use it again. As for camera choices: Read reviews. But always keep in mind some people are easily impressed

Maybe you missed the word "minimum," bolded, in my reply?

There are two ways to go about this: Find the output current rating on the power supply (I assume the Lorex NVR powers the cameras?) and multiply that by its output voltage. That will give you its approximate max wattage. UPS' are rated in VA (volt-amps), but it'll be close enough. The other way is to actually measure the current draw on the AC side using a true RMS ammeter. (That's the best way.) Then multiply the measured current draw times the line voltage. Next you have to determine whether the point is to protect your surveillance system and allow it to survive short-term outages, or to have it stay up for an extended time when there's an outage. (I note you list a "12V 10" PSU. If that's 12V at 10A, which would probably be about right for an 8-camera system [assuming about 15W/camera], then your want a minimum 120VA UPS. Depending upon the design, that may give you anywhere from 5-10 minutes of uptime [SWAG]). To a degree you can extend uptime by going with a higher-than-recommend-VA UPS, but there are diminishing returns with each bump in VA capacity. Reason is reduced efficiencies as UPS VA capacity goes up. For truly extended runtime you need an "extended runtime" UPS. They don't have greater VA capacity, but more battery. (They also take longer to recover because there's more battery capacity to charge back up. There ain't no free lunches.) E.g.: With a 120W load, a 120VA UPS may give you about 5-10 minutes of uptime, but a 360VA UPS won't necessarily give you 15-30 minutes. In fact: My old power-hog Dell 1600SC server had a 700VA APC SmartUPS on it. The computer + peripherals drew about 200W. The UPS had a runtime of only fifteen minutes with brand new batteries. Speaking of batteries: Make sure to buy a UPS with user-replaceable batteries. They have about a three-year lifespan. Also: Get in the habit of doing run-time tests about every quarter or so, to extend battery life. The UPS manufacturer should have a chart listing estimated run times for each of their UPS' vs. expected loads.

I have two Dahua IP cameras: An IPC-HDW5231R-ZE and an IPC-HDBW4231F-AS. Both Firefox and Chrome work for settings and the like (running on Linux Mint MATE). Neither browser yields a video image for the 5231. That's an IE-only thing with that camera. (I'm hoping, since the 4231 does give me video on both browsers, Dahua eventually comes out with a firmware upgrade for the 5231 that'll do the same.) It's not a big deal, as I'm using an NVR, anyway. If these cameras were IE-only I'd never have purchased the 2nd one. We have two MS-Windows boxes in the house. Both installations are scheduled for demolition when MS-Win 7 EOLs next year. Then there will be no more MS-Windows in the house--at all.

To the typical "smash and grab" burglar an alarm system isn't much a deterrent. They'll be in and out in five minutes. Long before the local constabulary can arrive, unless they're right around the corner and get the call quickly. What one may accomplish is to discourage more thorough burglars. E.g.: Say you have valuables in a bolted-down safe or well-hidden. An alarm system may deny more determined burglars the time needed to breech the safe or execute a more thorough search for valuables. We have a wired system here. To me it's primary benefits are it lets us know when a door or window is open, and it includes both smoke/fire and flood detection. It will also let us know if our home has possibly been burgled when we were away. (It's a monitored system, emails/messages events, and has an app.) (Our alarm system will never annoy the neighbours, because the siren is inside.)

Any time you allow Internet access to anything the threat level goes from "very little" to "a lot," regardless of what you try to do to mitigate it. For starters: Login access to your router from the Internet should be entirely prohibited. Period. Incoming connections should be on a "that which is not explicitly allowed is denied" basis. Proper, explicit port-forwarding rules should see to that. Default accounts should be disabled. Or at least have passwords or pass phrases so incredibly long and complicated they might as well be. If login access has any "break in attempt" detection, that can temporarily blacklist source addresses that get an account i.d. and/or password wrong "X number of times in time T," that will tend to slow attackers down so badly the likelihood of success is vanishingly low. Regarding LAN security: It's wise, when possible, to use VLANs and isolate IoT devices to their own VLANs. Also: If IoT devices do not need access to the Internet (e.g.: cameras talking to a local NVR have no need to swap spit with anything on the Internet, other than to occasionally check for firmware updates), they should be prohibited from doing so, either by putting them on their own network segments, using VLANs that don't have access to the Internet gateway, or by blocking them at the gateway. (VLANs enforced by managed Ethernet switches are more secure than border-router blocking. Separate LANs, isolated with internal routers are even more secure.) Lastly: You have to put it in perspective. Unless you're a bank, government entity or some other high-value target: Odds are anybody taking a shot at you is just what we call "knob-twisting" in the I.T. security field. They'll get in if they can, but it's unlikely anybody will mount a concerted attack against you. You're probably at greater risk from what you receive in email and what you browse with your web browser than you are with your NVR and cameras.

Ok, about the breaker number and phases. It works like this: Each pair of consecutively-numbered breakers is on the same phase. The next pair are on the other. So: Phase L1: 1,2; 5,6; 9,10 ... Phase L2: 3,4; 7,8; 11,12... The numbering will be 1,3,5,7,9... on the left side, 2,4,6,8... on the right. Again: This is so a tandem 240VAC breaker plugged into one side, say at 1 & 3, will net 240VAC. Reminder: Not all powerline Ethernet adapters are equal. I'm using Comtrend precisely because theirs, while not necessarily the fastest, have a reputation for reliability. Btw: If the garage power is being upgraded, that would imply you'll be trenching to run new power. Why not take that opportunity to just drop some conduit in the same trench for Ethernet and any other low-power cabling you might want? Put a pair of fish lines in it as you assemble it so you can easily pull your low-voltage cables later. Low-power and electrical can be in the same trench, just not in the same conduit.

Not certain what you're on about, ak357, but I suspect it isn't particularly helpful wrt the OP's question, so how about we drop it, ok?

Re: WiFi: I was referring to my previous reply. I kinda sorta know what WiFi is

jreid1492, I think the approach I'd take would be to order a Comtrend G.hn 1200 Mbps Powerline Ethernet Bridge Adapter 2-Unit Kit PG-9172KIT ($70 on Amazon) and test it. Preferably by having something on the LAN and something in the garage so you can test the bandwidth and reliability. If that worked I'd be good to go. If it didn't work, I'd figure I could probably always find a use somewhere in the house for the powerline adaptors, then I'd move on to try the WiFi bridge solution. That's a bit riskier, being as the Nanostations are close to $90/ea. The PoE switch I chose for my surveillance system, btw, is the NetGear 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305P).

That is not necessarily critical. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to tell you how to build a watch so you'll understand what I'm telling you when I tell you the time Residential power in the U.S. is nearly invariably what's called "split phase." 240VAC (nominal) single-phase power from a center-tapped transformer arrives at your distribution (aka: "breaker") panel. One side of that goes to one side of the panel, the other to the other side. The breaker boxes are designed such that every other breaker on each side is on the same side of the split phase. Let's call them "L1" and "L2". (Because that's how they're actually labelled ;).) Between L1 or L2 and neutral is 120VAC. Between L1 and L2 is 240VAC. 120VAC breakers connect only to L1 or L2, and neutral is used for the "return." 240VAC breakers connect to both L1 and L2. (Either one could be said to be the supply or return. Supply/return really doesn't apply to L1/L2.) Where powerline Ethernet adaptors (and a lot of powerline home automation gear, such as X10) run into trouble is when one node is on L1/neutral and the other is on L2/neutral. The signals often don't make it across very well. With that, now, perhaps, you'll understand this: That your garage has or will have it's own breaker panel isn't quite as critical as which side of the split phase power each adaptor ends-up on. And, with this and my explanation of how a WiFi bridge might work for you, now perhaps you'll understand why I earlier wrote that either WiFi or powerline will work better, depending upon the particular site.

Crude ASCII network diagram: LAN or NVR <-> PoE injector <-> NanoStation M5 <-/ WiFi signal /-> Nanostation M5 <-> PoE injector <-> PoE switch <-> cameras The reason you need a separate PoE injector at the garage end, even though you'd have a PoE switch out there, already, is Ubiquity Nanostations don't employ the 802.3af/at PoE standards. (I believe they come with the non-standard power injectors.) If you don't want the clutter of the power injector at the garage end, you can purchase an Ubiquiti Instant 802.3af Gigabit Indoor PoE Converter, Model: INS-3AF-I-G PoE, and use one of the 802.3af/at ports on the PoE Etherswitch to power the Nanostation. Mind you: For this to get reasonable bandwidth you'd need to have a fairly clear shot between the Nanostations. If you try to shoot through too many RF-unfriendly obstructions, you might get less-than-satisfactory results. Furthermore: I've never actually tried this. Everything I know says it should work, but I've been surprised more times in my life than I'd care to count

Larry is right about common consumer/residential WiFi will be disappointing. If you want to backhaul your camera feeds from a detached structure to another (primary?) structure, there are three ways to go about it: Ethernet (hardwired) WiFi, point-to-point, dedicated Powerline Ethernet adaptors If Ethernet is out of the question, then you're left with (2) and (3). Depending upon a variety of factors, one may work better for you than the other. If you're going to try powerline Ethernet adaptors, I recommend not skimping. From my research, it would appear Comtrend G.hn 1200 Mbps Powerline Ethernet Bridge Adapters are the most reliable. Caveat: That's from research, not personal experience. You'll also want to ensure that both ends are on the same power phase if you're on typical U.S. split-phase 240/120VAC power. If you're going to try WiFi, DO NOT attempt to simply use a WiFi bridge talking to the typical home/residential/consumer WiFi router. That will almost certainly result in disappointment. Instead use dedicated 5GHz WiFi point-to-point devices, such as a pair of Ubiquiti NanoStation M5's. Either way: One is plugged directly into either the (wired) LAN or NVR and the one in the detached structure connected to a PoE switch, which, in turn, goes to the cameras. I think I'm just going to go ahead and order a pair of those Comtrend devices to play with. I'm curious as to how well they'll work. We've a shed about 50-75' from the back of the house I think it would be amusing to put a pair of cameras on--one pointing out back and the other looking back at the house. I know the WiFi backhaul would work, but the powerline adaptors would be so much easier. (*click* *click*... *click* Done!)

Welcome, Gloopy

I'm using a NetGear LB1120 on T-Mobile for an Internet connection fail-over. It works great. Warning: These data connections are almost always NAT'ed. Which means, adding your border router, you will be double-NAT'ed. This means you almost certainly won't be able to port-forward for making connections inward. It works with my Synology NAS' Surveillance Station NVR functionality, because, when the Internet connection is failed-over to my T-Mobile connection, the connection back to my surveillance system goes through Synology's servers. If you're using cloud storage it shouldn't be a problem.

"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." - John Ruskin (1819-1900)

They'll probably lose their water/moisture resistance when you do that. You're finding out why some (many?) feel dome cameras are not optimal for outdoor use. Personally, I would have thought domes best for outdoor use--until I read up on it a bit and learned of their downsides.

That's completely out in left field, entirely unjustified and egregiously offensive. You owe @tomcctv an apology.

You really haven't provided much detail. What area do you wish to cover? Do you require images good enough to identify perps in the dark? How dark is the "dark" in the area you want to cover? Where do you hope to mount/install this camera? How much do you wish to spend?

Good to have you here, Danie!

You're probably not getting an answer because, without knowing the exact construction of your home, there is no way to answer it. Even then, there'd have to be someone around who actually knows the answer. I'm afraid this task, running cables from outside-to-inside, is probably a job better-left to professionals. If you do: Make certain they're established, insured, bonded and have a good reputation. You don't want anybody who's going to screw up and force you to rip walls out to repair it on your dime. There are few tasks I won't tackle. I've even done my own natural gas work. But routing cables through existing exterior walls might well be one of them. I have done it on a limited basis, three times, but in each case is was a short, simple run and I was 99-44/100% certain I knew exactly what I was drilling into. I might give it a go a 4th time. I may want to put a 5GHz point-to-point wireless radio on the back of the house. But I'll have direct access to the sill plate from the basement, it'll also be a very short run, and I won't have to do any blind drilling. (I'm currently debating just how badly I want to do this little project.)

Unless you have other uses for the NAS: Definitely. In my case: I already had the NAS for a whole-house OTA TV DVR solution and I'll probably use it for additional network file storage. So the surveillance camera support was essentially a freebie.

Motion-activated lights are as much to startle and dissuade thieves as to reveal them. Not really. PoE IP cameras are pretty standard (the ones I noted range from $70USD to $177USD). Another member here suggested in another thread adequate 2MP Starlight PoE cameras can be had in the U.K. for as little as £50. With a dedicated, purpose-designed NVR the PoE supply comes with the NVR. Otherwise, single PoE injectors can be had for less than $25, and 5-port PoE network switches for less than $50. Sorry, I do not. I'm not using an NVR. I already had a NAS for other purposes, and it has NVR capability built-in. So I didn't even research them. That depends. My outdoor cameras will be mounted high enough to make disabling them somewhat difficult, short of taking a swing at them with a long-ish blunt object. The NVR is indoors, isn't obviously an NVR, and may soon be moved to a somewhat "secured" room, anyway. Besides which: Getting to that will require breaking into the house, which will summon the local constabulary. (Who just successfully got a millage increase, with which they'll be increasing staffing levels.) I'm considering dumping video to one of my off-site virtual servers, on either a scheduled or event-tripped basis. Maybe both. DIY'ing it right is not difficult. It just takes a modicum of smarts, adequate study, money, and a bit of sweat equity. It helps if the whole subject amuses you. I'm a tech geek, so it does me