Gator

Three times $30 is not the best camera, even with pixim on the label. Night ratings may be with quoted for sense-up or dynamic noise reduction or with a larger lens than is installed. You should leave day/night mode on so that night photos will receive enough infrared light to form an image. Don't expect color images at night unless you provide a white light source. Turn noise reduction off. Noise reduction works by taking a series of images and averaging them together. If there's a change in the scene, that gets smeared to the next image. Your camera may actually have poor light performance and played specs-manship on you by having noise reduction or sense-up turned on. That will make it pass the test but not provide useful moving images. Your cheaper cameras work better because they don't have those features while they had good low light sensitivity but poor color rendition. You probably need to spend closer to $200+ to get the camera you want and this is still low cost compared with your application. Even in that price range, you will need external lighting for night.

Can this card be set to record continuously on a scheduled time? For example, could I record daily from 8:30 to 9:30AM, continuous video? Can I do this on more than one channel?

To add an IP camera to the GV800, does the camera have to be Geovision? Do I need to buy a license or bongle?

Yes, I have a few of them. The image quality is surprisingly good for the size and price. It works okay in low light but will in an IR source in darkness. You could add an IR led to your enclosure. It is IR sensitive and it has no IR cut, so image suffers some in daylight, as all cameras lacking an IR cut filter will. The lens is not interchangable (because they are not sold seperately), but if you search eBay, there are two different lens versions, one for 90* viewing and another for around 55*. For the enclosure you propose, I can't think of anything smaller. Most board cameras are 1.25" or 1.5" square which would be too long. If you could use these larger board cameras in a larger enclosure, I would recommend removing the camera board from a CNB camera, model DFL-20S. The DFL-20S is not quite as good in low light, but it's sharper. You can put an M12x0.5 taper lens with focal point of your choice on the DFL-20S board.

Look on eBay for MC900

Try a polarizing lens that has adjustment. Adjust to see through the windshield. You'll be amazed.

Mount the protection device as close as possible to the ground rod at the point of entry to the building. Protecting the building and occupants is more important than protecting the camera or DVR.

Do a google search on "mailbox skunk".

It's the infrared coating that causes this difference. Energy efficient windows are coated to block IR. The camera is sensitive to IR but the IR response shows as different colors. If you can put an IR filter in front of the camera, the colors will improve.

I'm considering adding this card and need to be certain I understand the programming features. I have a question about i/o functionality in the software, 8.3. On the I/O setup screen, it shows a pulse option. It accepts a range up to 900 seconds. Can I connect an input from the GV-NET IO to a photoelectric relay, an output to a floodlight (with an external control relay) and have it light the lamp for any dwell time I set up to 900 seconds? Is this time retriggerable, such that the timing countdown is restarted each time the input switches? I would like for lighting to stay on until there is no more activity on the motion detectors or photoelectric detectors. I'm also curious what applications others have used for these I/O's.

I missed that point first read through. I was thinking he had two CNB's interacting and that would be fixed by using 24VAC. With a baby monitor, I don't think it's going to make any difference to change power source on the LMB24VF. Disable the LED's on one or the other camera if that's possible. Maybe duct tape?

I think it's working like Soundy says and pulsing the LED's. Continuously variable analog control would waste power. With one camera slightly off time with the other, there's a beat note in the lighting. Another source of IR fill in light would probably kill the problem. They might sync up if they were both put on a 24VAC source.

It depends what you want to see. If you google "cctv field of view" you can quickly calculate what the camera can see for each focal length with an online calculator.

Has anyone here used the KPC-N700NH8? How about with it connected to Geovision? Is it a decent performer?

You should de-rate these well below label specs. The aluminum capacitors inside are bare minimum for the job so running them close to spec rating will have a shorter lifespan. There's not much difference in prices on these solid state power supplies. A higher current rated power supply will necessarily have more output capacitors or a larger one with a heavier ripple current rating. I would go with like Rory says, 2Amps, even though the 1Amp will run the camera.

Are there any other sites DBA this firm?

The lead in wire needs to enter the building with a discharge unit mounted adjacent to the point of entry. The discharge unit ground needs to be connected with a short lead to a ground rod and that rod needs to be bonded to the building's ground. That does not mean you can place the discharge unit on the roof and run a ground down the building! The camera lead has to run down the side of the building to ground before it enters the structure. Penetration to the building needs to be near effective grounding. If you take a direct hit to the pole or to the power entering the building, the camera and the monitoring equipment is going to be toast. Insulating the camera lead from the lamp creates a hazard for anyone touching the camera if there's a malfunction. It should be bonded there too. That is at odds with getting clean video because it will introduce ground loops. Good differential signal processing at both ends will fix that.

I'm about to try the BBB-34 in this application as a driveway camera. If it doesn't work for this, I'll stick it somewhere else. I'll try a 50mm lens at first. I may need to go to 80. I'll let you know if it works with bright headlights. You photos shows cars rounding the bend. You may get better results if you use a longer lens and catch them at a straight spot in the road. Then they won't be moving side to side in the frame. There will be less interlace hatch in the images because there is effectively less movement.

Have you looked at hardware manager for conflicts? Is the com port this is taking switched off in bios so the mainboard com isn't on?

They have tarnished their name such that my household will not buy Sony goods. The last straw was a notebook computer advertised to run 3-4 hours on battery than never worked more than 2-1/4 hours when brand new. We had a Sony TV from the eighties that lasted over twenty years, and a newer one that lasted only three. I had similar experience with their top of the line VCR and Hi-8 stereo Camcorder. No more Sony for me. They've lost their touch.

Computer Case: CASE APEX| VORTEX 3620 RT Power Supply : came with case Motherboard : Intel Desktop board (OEM board) D865GBF/D865GLC CPU entium 4 socket 468, 2.8 Ghz Memory 2GB Corsair Video Card * Integrated in main board Hard Drive : 250 G Western digital sata Operating System * Windows XP SP3 GeoVision Card * GV-800-16 PCI GeoVision Software Version * 8.3 Screen Resolution * 1024 x 768 Video Size 720 X 480 de-interlace Motion/Continuous * Motion Length of Tested Period * 2 weeks, no stability issues four cameras email notification on

I'm looking for a source of thread in board camera lenses that have an infrared cut filter built in. Some of these board cameras have the IR filter built into the pinhole lens or have no filter at all. I would like to buy an assortment of different focal length lenses for my cameras and I need the IR cut to improve the color quality and sharpness. I searched IR cut MTV lens on eBay and I find people advertising lenses that pass infrared as being "IR CUT". Does anyone know where to buy these? Or is there a way to add a filter in front of the ccd on cameras that don't have the filter built into the sensor?

Does anyone make some fixed lenses that would fit? I wanted to try a 50mm lens but the mount for this is slip-fit, not threaded. I could change the lens holder too but I don't have those parts lying around at the moment. Would a 50mm MTV lens fit under the dome? I was thinking it might be short enough because of the extra space taken by the vari-focal. What's the chance the '34VF would work for reading license places with a long lens installed and some extra lighting? The construction has a plastic spacer that could be replaced by an electric IR filter.

Mine arrived yesterday. I am very impressed with the color rendition, features and the build quality. I haven't tried it on my GV800-16 DVR yet. After the holidays, I'll post a snapshot.

Thanks. You know a lot about lens technology. I didn't know there were lenses designed to pass that narrow spectrum in addition to the visible end. I found two infra-red cut filters on ebay. One is a small element you place in front of the sensor. I've bought one to try. The other has an electronic drive to slide it back and forth. For my use, the fixed one will do. I'm using a small board camera indoors and the IR is throwing the color off a bit. What is the color response for the 12mm x 0.5 lenses that are marked VIR? Are they just optimized for IR, or do they also include filtering? Is there advantage to use a "megapixel" lens on a 600tvl camera?