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melisandeneowald I live in Canada and do business in the U.S.. It hit -48F here last winter and not one camera failed. All my PTZ's, box cams in a $35 heater/blower housings, even low end $50 bullet cams all ran great. Me on the other hand don't operate too well when it is that cold Typically the electronics inside the camera help in keeping the camera warm enough to function. The area where you would most likely run into an issue is if you lost power when it was that cold and you tried to get the camera going again. It may not come back up until spring Seriously though when I first started this business I wondered the same as you. Now that I've gone through a few winters it does not concern me as much anymore.

Any wire across a pole I would suggest going the messenger wire route. You can then use an outdoor rated siamese and lash it to the messenger. Just using a regular wire strung across a pole is asking for trouble. The conductors are thin and the jacket is thin so it will stretch and eventually conductors will break and then well you get the picture. You could find wire with a built in messenger also and this is popular amoungst the telco wire although I think I saw it on a siamese before but not cheap.

Here i offer you a link of PTZ cameras. 1/4" Color EX-View HAD CCD Speed Dome Camera 480 TV Line, Horizontal Night Vision IR Distance: 330' (100m) Signal System: NTSC Lens: 2.5mm (WIDE) to 91mm (TELE) Optical Zoom: 27X Angle of View (H): 54.2° (WIDE) to 2.2° (TELE) Pan Rotation: 0°~360° (Endless) Tilt Rotation: 0°~90° 32 Presets Metallic Housing Weatherproof: Yes See if this one will meet you needs...hope it can help you a little. WOWZERS. I would have to say I've never seen anything like that!

HA! You guessed it. $6 tupperware bowl. Can we say Macgyver..........you go boy! It works and keeps the water out but I would not show that to too many people if your trying to get any work doing this.

Most general run of the mill camera without a heater blower will take a 500ma supply. A 16 channel 12V 8amp supply which will provide you with the 500ma per channel. I've seen a lot of bullet cameras with IR take less than 500ma but I've also seen them taking upwards of an amp. We obviously do not have much info from you because the selection of power supply all depends on what cameras you plan to use. A lot of cameras are dual voltage meaning that they will accept either 12VDC or 24VAC power. Select your cameras, look at the specs for power requirements and select the appropriate supply or come back once you've looked up all your power requirements for each camera you want and someone could point you in the right direction once you provide us with more info.

zmxtech, I believe rory is commenting about the latest 7411 pictures that hardwired posted not about the 3401. rory is saying that he likes the picture before last which is a great shot but not a night time shot. I agree rory but to go from a 7411 to a 3130 caliber camera is a huge $$ jump considering the quantity of cameras. The customer was not interested in spending that much so I tried to set his expectations as much as I good with going to these cameras. When all is said and done this customer may need as many as 74 cameras so take 74 multiplied by x hundreds of dollars more for a the best night IP camera and it was big money. hardwired the shots you provided are using the flood lights or street lamps that the customer has right? There is no IR installed there is there?

Man tough break. I have not had water in a camera like that but I have had water in other devices. What I've found is if water did get into the housing of the unit water tends to not evaporate to easily even when left out to dry. I find that you have to take the housing apart because water gets in under the surface mount parts. Humidity may eat away at critical parts if it's not completely dry. I've used a heat gun or hair drier on low heat to really dry all the parts off, reassemble it and it should work just fine. By doing this you will be certain that you got all water out out of there. Keep in mind you might void a MFG warranty by taking the camera apart. Others may have other ideas but without disassembly I'm not sure how you can be certain that it completely dried out.

WOW! These are great example pictures. Thanks so very much hardwired. I just ordered 14 of the ACM-7411 today with wall brackets. I feel a little better now that I've seen pictures. Customer has street lights all over the place but the lights of course create lots of shadows and dark areas. It will be a bit of a challenge to do this one but these cameras appear to work fine for the price. THANKS AGAIN!

Thanks a ton Rory. This provides me with the ball park figure I needed.

What do you mean here?

How does the 7411 perform under IR?

Hi All, Looking at potentially integrating a number of these NVR Mini's at a customers. Problem I'm having and I guess just sort of learning cause I haven't had one of these in the office to test yet is the fact that there is no monitor, keyboard, mouse connection and the other fact there is only one ethernet port. Configuration, viewing and review of video all has to be done remotely. My experience with searching and reviewing video remotely has not been very possitive on any system I've tried. I'm hesitant about going this route considering the system would be residing at a number of different sites and running over DSL.....ARGH! Just seems like this will be a big problem. The other issue with the single ethernet port means all traffic will be going over the lan unless they keep the Mini on a lan of it's it's own but it defeats the need for remote access. Not sure why the mini was designed like this but then again I'm not sure how much this really cripples it. What have any of your experiences been with this. Any other major downsides besides the bandwidth issues I've been reading in other posts of course. Thanks

Thanks thewireguys. Yes I do recall seeing this image. Overall are you happy with the night time performace with street lighting? I would have these on a building that has the amber street lighting in the parking lot and at the entrance. I think it will have more lighting than what you have here.

It's the EH5216+ so the plus version that has buttons on the front (ie pro I guess). The issue is this. When set to motion detection recording the red triangle will not disappear in the preset amount of time and it will not dump the preset amount of video before the motion occured. I pass my hand in front of the camera and I see the shadow in the video as it passed not the hand. I open a door and I see the door close but not open. If the red triangle was not on the screen and I happen to pass my hand in front of the camera you will see the green triangle indicating motion was detected but the red continues to stay on for the remainder of that hour. When a new hour comes around the red triangle disappears. I did not make note unfortunately of the firmware version as I received it but I did flash the latest version on it and verified the failure continued. I now wait for my RA so I can send this thing back. Let me know if you have any other questions about it.

OK. It is being sent back as a DOA! My very first 5216+ What ever happened to the quality of products. There doesn't seem to be much QA anymore.

I haven't even unpacked the remote. I am using the mouse. Aver tech support could not fix the issue so yes I have an issue with my first ever EH5216+ unit. I just now loaded new firmware so I will go through the motions again to see if reinstalling the firmware will fix the issues I have with this thing. Stay tuned!

Got my first Avermedia EH-5216P Hybrid DVR. Played with it for a few hours yesterday and I got so frustrated with it that I almost through it across the room I find the search and playback feature to be really difficult to use. I mean I've been installing DVR's from NUUO, Geovision and a number of no name brand embedded DVR's and I never had to sit there and study the manual to figure out how to search. ARGH!!! So for starters the search is not broken down into minutes like every other DVR I've used for the past couple of years. Aver breaks it down to hours. I like the DVR's which break it by hour and then you can zoom in on the hour to see the motion recordings by the minute and not have to play back the hour like Aver. I may be doing something wrong and maybe there search is superior to others but I haven't figured out how or why it is supposedly better. I have the recordings set to motion recording but yet it is always recording....WHY? When I do a search by motion it is always showing that no motion has been found. YET, the monitor display will show a green triangle when I pass my hand in front of the camera indicating that motion was seen.............What the heck... I guess I have to contact a tech support guy to walk me through the setup again which begs the question why is this system so hard to use!?! I'll reply back if a new revelation hits me and now I think this is the best DVR ever but right now it ain't cuttin it!!

Wireless? Just something else to cause cancer (and plenty $$$) ... You could get good wireless by tranzeo and do it for less than it would cost to run cable or fiber 1 mile. Cancer, LOL! Being bombarded by so many radio waves in every direction I don't think one more signal would matter LOL!

Got line of site? Go wireless. Some good stuff out there.

Got an install with 5 3130's and the largest lens on one of them is a 12mm. The big thing with the 3130 is you will have to use a fixed lens because the dual sensors sit too close to one another to use a varifocal.

OK Looking at putting in a number of ACM-7411's (5 to be exact) and considering that we are in a cold area of the country I want to use the heater and blower. The specs state 13.2W at 12V. Trying to find a way of using a PDU to power them but I need one that will put out more than 1.1A per channel. I don't want 5 single channel power supplies. Ideas?

DITTO Especially when it is negative digits during a snow storm with a few feet of snow and ice under my ladder GRRRRRRRRR

I was also told by Chad C at ACTi who is the U.S. Director that the low temp heater (2nd stage heater) will not operate over POE. A separate power source is required for low temp. It would, however, be a great idea to disable the stage one heater to lower the required amperage during low temp operation. Maybe in a second release of the camera?!?

Thanks Wireguys and ando. I located a PDU that will handle the power requirements of 5 of the cameras and my other site I will be using outdoor enclosures from L-Com and will be using the included power supply. Of course the rated lower temps don't go as low as I need but we all know it should run just fine at lower than that as long as the camera is not powered off in that cold of a temp. I'm looking forward to working with the ACTi ACM-7411.

Well not many cameras are rated that cold. The issue is more of power it up when it is that cold than maintaining operation down to that cold. I have very cheap $35 bullets here that ran without issue through the record -48F we had last winter. As long as it is operating I have not had one single camera fail to operate in the past two winters up here. I will always use heated enclosures with my box cameras. I'm not worried about the ACTi not working during cold weather so long as it is not powered off. The heater will aid the electronics at keeping the camera interior warm enough to operate. I just need enough power through a PDU. I'm still not convinced that POE will operate the heater. The spec seems to point to the need of a separate 12V supply for the heater.