MRakes

OK. My fix was stupid. Combination Windows resolution and GeoVision. Just reset both resolutions to the same size and restart Geo. Viola......Sometimes, all I can do is shake my head.

Just developed this problem, myself. My test machine, which gets geo cards swapped out every so often, has been a champ until now. There is video from the cams. Inside any setup screen, it looks fine. But on the main screen, only black with the name/ record indicators. It's recording, you just see black in realtime instead of video. I'm trying to determine if it's a video card issue, right now. Otherwise I'm baffled. Codecs from 1240 to 800 cards shouldn't be different but maybe I caused it by swapping cards/ software. Will post if I find the answer....but.....

PS.....Digital boxes and analog boxes are two totally different creatures.

Splitting the 1 cable won't be a problem IF the signal strength is strong enough for the digital box. With digital, it's all or nothing. Just make sure you use a professional splitter. The cheap ones that you find at most local electronics stores aren't very good. Rule of thumb is heavier the better. If it's real light, it's cheap. If your digital box starts getting a broken signal or some channels no longer tune in, you'll need an amp at the housebox. The biggest trick is getting a modulator tuned to a channel that is not being used. You can't "double-up" on a channel. It has to be either not there or filtered out. Digital channels do not translate into analog channels. Totally different frequencies. Plug directly into the TV and flip through to find open channels. On the Modulator side, you're not "passing through" the cable signal. You're "tapping" into it. Same sort of config as the TV splitter but instead of a "splitter" you're using a "combiner".

Just watch out for noise in the audio....

I can't say that I've come across this yet but....sounds like you may need to "transcode" the AVI files. Something like WinAVI, SUPER or similar program. Programs like this will re-encode the file as AVI, MPEG, etc. I'll give it a try, too.

The proper way is to use a Video Distribution Amp, like he said. It splits the video but amplifies the signal back up to 1 volt p2p. Good DVRs will have a "loop" or "monitor" out. Just run another line from the DVR. Most of the time, slackers like me just split the signal off the camera. Don't use a splitter like CATV guys use. It drops the signal too much. Use a T adapter. If using CAT5, I'll use little butt connectors like the phone guys use. It's not proper and lowers the video level quite a bit. But if you're in a pinch and that cam is not critical for a great picture, it'll do.

I agree. Try a lower channel. The dig boxes are going thru data starvation. That causes a freeze or macro-blocking in the picture. Digital cable all but HAS to be on RG6 cable. The high freq. of the digital broadcast actually skims along the outside of the center core. Smaller cable just doesn't have the surface area to carry all that's broadcast these days. Also, if there is too much of a bend in the cable, those freqs just get bounced back to the main feed. If you're modulating on a high freq, you may be just adding to the pile of freqs already there. A lower freq. may not require as much power and MAY not interfere with the digital cable channels. You might even consider another amp for the CATV.

Yeah, I'm thinking it's board level.....all chroma, no luminosity? I'd pull it out and sell it as IR....

Since when is Florida in the South? I have had trouble with Netopia and video streaming. It's been a couple of years but if all else fails, try another brand. Just for S & G's.

They are pretty basic. I've had expensive ones and cheap ones go bad. It's more about the type of connection they have and whether or not it fits your application....I say get a few. If they're bad, not much lost. If you like them, get more.

Could be anything but my first guess is bandwidth. Play with different compressions, picture types, etc...

Dynamic IP from Comcast will give you fits, too.

#8 is more of a analog, broadcast video thing (TV/ CATV). That source stops producing video but since the cable is plugged in, it changes the termination. In a station's master control, this changes the "sync" enough to cause a big tear or roll when changing video sources.

IP change from ISP? If you suspect DNS issue, try 208.67.222.222 and 208.67.220.220 (OpenDNS).

Forgot to say hello....Hello. I'm new to CCTV but not to video. From Tennessee, USA...using i3DVR, mostly. I'll be popping in from time to time to give my 2 bits.

Don't laugh but....I actually used the cheap plastic film from a pair of 3D theater glasses. The gray glasses they hand out are polarized but set at different angles. Here's the funny part. I just cut one up to fit and super glued it over the lens. Just be sure to test which rotation of the polarized filter it should be BEFORE it's glued. Not too professional but in a pinch....

Not a Mac guy but it sounds like you're going down the right path. Keep it separate and use IP cams. Just be sure to use switches to keep traffic to a minimum on the rest on the network. Most IP cams will let you throttle bandwidth and setup motion detection, too. That Arecont does get a nice picture for the price. ...Just build a DVR with lots'o'storage and a DVD-RW for backing up the good stuff.

Thnx for the welcome. SRX Pro DVRs, mainly. The rack mount 24024 hybrids (analog & IP), etc. Also have the IP Pro (IP cams only) on the bench right now. I'm integrating them with Point of Sale systems. Similar to the Geovision.

OK...I'll bite 2:B 4:A (w/ adjustments) 1:D 3:C (has IR filter taken off)

....Yep. Gotta be the aluminum. It just doesn't conduct well enough and is too susceptible to interference. I honestly don't know of anyone in any industry that's still using it. RG6 would be overkill, though. Great for high freq stuff like CATV but no need in CCTV.

...but definitely worth finding out. I'd use CAT6E cabling. You'll get a longer run out of it and it will hold power better. Baluns at one or both ends.