Malloot

Does anyone knows which preset is used to set the autotour of an Dahua analog PTZ camera?

I totally agree with Mat Ion. Stan, If you accuse me of not being objective I won't even bother to discuss with you. Not anyone not using your software isn't objective. It is good to stand up for your product, but respect that there are other product that people like better. Some people drink Coca Cola some drink Pepsi Cola, thats live. About promoting on several forums. Eeehh only two; here and on the CCTV forum. Don't make things bigger then they are. Have a nice life....

Just for accuracy. VideoCAD Starter version excels current JVSG in many aspects and costs $85 agains $195. Nope, tried both and still prefer the JVSG software and the new JVSG software excels against the VideoCAD software. Also when I add the IP camera CCTV calculator and the plugin for Google Sketchup makes it 3$ more expensive. And for a fair comparison I should add these upgrades since JVSG also have these functions. There were some pro's for the VideoCAD, but with the new JVSG this isn't the case any more.

I guess that can vary, but I translated the software into Dutch and I got the Beta version earlier this week. Now I can translate the extra functions into Dutch also for the definitive version.

The next version for PC will be available in January. We will start the public beta testing in 2-3 weeks. I cannot tell right now when iPad version will be ready. Probably in Q2 or Q3. I have had the honour to have a preview of the new JVSG software. This is definitely the best software you could purchase for your CCTV system designing. JVSG is offering the best solution for the lowest price of any CCTV design software.

The beta version of the Pelco design tool isn't usable. To many bugs and every time the same starting point on the other end of the world for me. CCTVcad is just to complicated and to expensive. I will stick the JVSG software. Can be used by everyone that can start up the program and has most futures you wish for. And the JVSG team is always open for suggestions.

In the Netherlands 90% of the DVR's are connected to LAN/WAN. I mean light sensitivty. The HDcctv camera's does have bigger chips and therefore should be more sensitive for light the the smaller MP IP camera's. Unfortunatly the HDcctv aren't more sensitive. Also the comparison I made showed a more grainy image for the HDcctv camera's then the MP IP camera's.

HDcctv is the new standard for installers lacking IP knowlegde. It's is work around solutions for installers who didn't grow in to this century where IP is the standard for bigger resolution solutions. HDcctv is too expensive and doesn't have any advantages to me opposed to a megapixel IP solution. An HDcctv camera costs equal to a MP IP camera, but the IP camera does have generally a better sensitivity. An 8 channel HD cctv DVR cost around 4 times more then a equal specified NVR. So no HDcctv for me. Also I don't like the general way of communication of the HDcctv complience. Just answer the questions instead of talking around it. No your limitations, etc, etc.

For backlit situations, I prefer the JVC WD310 camera, I never had a camera in my hand that performed better in the most bright backlit situations than this camera. The downside of this camera is the low lux performance. But damn, this camera impresses me over and over again.

Buying a new Lux meter; I'm in the market for a new Lux meter. Does anyone have a suggestion. Also I saw once a lux meter where you could put a CCTV lens on and then read the lux rating. Does anyone know where I can buy those?

Thanks all for your thoughts. I will order a Extech meter. Probably the HD-400.

I was thinking about this one: http://www1.conrad.nl/scripts/wgate/zcop_nl3/~flNlc3Npb249UDkwX05MX0IyQzpDX0FHQVRFMDQ6MDAwMS4wMDg2LmQ2NDBiMmMxJn5odHRwX2NvbnRlbnRfY2hhcnNldD1pc28tODg1OS0xJn5TdGF0ZT04ODYxMDY0Nzg=?~template=PCAT_AREA_S_BROWSE&mfhelp=&p_selected_area=%24ROOT&p_selected_area_fh=&perform_special_action=&glb_user_js=Y&shop=NL2&vgl_artikel_in_index=&product_show_id=&p_page_to_display=DirektSearch&~cookies=1&zhmmh_lfo=&zhmmh_area_kz=&s_haupt_kategorie=&p_searchstring=luxmeter&p_searchstring_artnr=&p_searchstring_manufac_artnr=&p_search_category=alle&fh_directcall=&r3_matn=&insert_kz=&gvlon=&area_s_url=&brand=&amount=&new_item_quantity=&area_url=&direkt_aufriss_area=&p_countdown=&p_80=&p_80_category=&p_80_article=&p_next_template_after_login=&mindestbestellwert=&login=&password=&bpemail=&bpid=&url=&show_wk=&use_search=3&p_back_template=&template=&kat_save=&updatestr=&vgl_artikel_in_vgl=&titel=&darsteller=&regisseur=&anbieter=&genre=&fsk=&jahr=&jahr2=&dvd_error=X&dvd_empty_error=X&dvd_year_error=&call_dvd=&kna_news=&p_status_scenario=&documentselector=&aktiv=&gewinnspiel=&p_load_area=$ROOT&p_artikelbilder_mode=&p_sortopt=&page=&p_catalog_max_results=20

Exposure Value (EV) is more common in photography, so first calculate the EV, then convert to Lux. Use the table here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value to calculate the EV. Note that Table 1 assumes ISO 100. Once you have calculated the EV, then convert to Lux. Here is one table here http://www.ndavidking.com/Tech%20Articles/EV%20to%20Lux%20conversion%20tables.pdf. Unfortunately, the table does not include low lux values, but it's easy to compute them. To extend the table to include lower values, subtract 1 from EV and divide Lux by 2. So, adding another row, EV -2 is Lux 0.75, for example. Hope that helps. Best, Christopher It helps, but using a LUX meter suits me more then doing the math for several camera positions.

You may already own a lux meter. All you need is a digicam capable of taking long exposures and a basic understanding of light. Take a picture, determine the exposure (combination of ISO, F stop, and shutter speed) and convert to lux. Best, Christopher Can you tell me the formula to calculate the LUX value?

putting a lens on to a lux meter and then putting it back onto a camera i just dont see the point ......... its the camera that does the lux. using a lux meter is for light at that time (it can change with in 10 mins) are you looking for this to do cctv ??? It's the camera that does the lux and the lens decreases the light before it falls on to the chip. So you need to know how many light you loose when you use a vari-focal zoomed in to select the right camera for a specific situation. You don't use a LUX meter for een average situation, experiance should suffice, but for some specific situations a LUX meter is essential.

It depends on how you want to use the system. I think you should use it as an support for a video surveillance service. So they can check visual if the alarm was caused by a gunshot or due to firecrackers, etc. I think it might be helpful system in certain high risk situation where for example a drive-by shooting can occur. I will never trust a videosystem without a visual check by a human. I think such a system could be a nice addition for certain situations.

This product might be suitable for your case.

So that is a blunt statement. But untill the day of today nobody could show me an equal quality video image via UTP compared to the same image sent trough coax. I alway see some wrinkels, lines, shadows, etc. in the images sent trough UTP via active or passive baluns from a lot of different brands. And always on a videoscope the sync isn't as straight as it is when I use coax. And yes I use real certified CAT5E cable. Not those cheap chinese twisted pair cable that they call UTP. I'm I the only one who is so critical? Or are the more CCTV maniacs who have the same experiance?

Thank you very much for anyone's replies. I wrote it bold but didn't meant it that bold. I care, I want the best possible image. People spent a lot of money, so they deserve the best possible image. I care, I call myself a professional and want to make a differance oppossed to the average CCTV intaller. From a distance the quality is acceptable. But I know it can be better with coax, so I keep using coax. Analog vs. IP is comparing apples with pears. Different chapter of CCTV. I only do perfect systems. I adjust the situation and if that is not possible I don't do the system. My name is on the bill and on the housings, the shopwindow, etc. Until to today the NVT and suprisingly the EverFocus product performs the best. But if I can make the choise, I still use coax.

I prefer crimp-on BNC conectors. And I actually don't like baluns. I've tried dozens various types and didn't find the perfect ones. I always notice some ghosting. Sometimes I really have a good look to see it, but I see it and Coax performs better. Also the sync-puls isn't as straight as when you use quality coax. Also the price of the cable is no issue for me. The cost of labour could be an issue, but I don't notice a big difference between coax or cat cable in hours of labour. If you make a very need installation! If you shoot the cable with a bow and arrow above the ceilling, then CAT cable should be cheaper. If you put it cable ducts, the price doesn't matter of the cable. I'm also a CRT addict and bought a few 15" JVC HiRes monitors (The best CRT monitor ever made!), a few 10" JVC monitors (which I use for programming camera's or demonstrations in the field) and also 17" JVC HirRes monitor, just for the fun. For my custumers I use the JVC LM-series, Everfocus TFT range and for the budget systems the new Iiyama 19" Video TFT.

I don't think there is regular PTZ dome that could fit the job. I have an 36x zoom JVC PTZ available and it won't do your job. I should use an aprropiate PT head with a nice camera with a Pentax super zoomlens as you can vind below: http://security-systems.pentax.co.uk/en/product/C61247NA/ssd_products.php We used the following camera's for similar cases. (reading names / numbers on approching ship who want to enter the harbour) The Global View Station 1000: http://resource.boschsecurity.com/documents/GVS1000LongRang_DataSheet_enUS_T6649487627.pdf http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bosch+gvs+1000&search_type=&aq=f Vumii Dicoverii camera: http://www.vumii.com/discoverii.htm http://www.youtube.com/user/Vumii#g/a A challenge I expect should be moving air in hot weather which makes it hard / unable to read the numbers. Another challenge will be the vibration of the camera which makes it hard to recognize anything at such a range. You will be needing a very solid concrete/steel base en special build camerapole suited for the job. with best regards, Norman

And to make it even more difficult to compare lux-ratings. Generally the opening of the Iris isn't mentioned and loss of light through the lens is even not mentioned in the specs of the lens manufacturer. Generally you have to see it, to believe it.