vitHoward
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Everything posted by vitHoward
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How do you install CCTV
vitHoward replied to andy jinks's topic in Installation Help and Accessories
Cat5 (or for that matter any twisted pair with baluns) still has to be installed accouding to codes. The biggest problem I've noticed is with passive baluns and runs over 300-400 feet going into a digital video recorder. The color burst portion of the video signal drops below a usable level and the picture begins to lose color. Powered baluns eliminte the color loss problem but they are relatively expensive. What's going to be really neat is the evolution into the IP world. Using Cat5 with network based (IP) cameras we will be limited to 100 meters between hubs but the picture quality will be great. Good luck. Howard www.videoguardit.com -
I think Cooperman had it right. A true pinhole (film) camera has an almost infinite depth of field. Everything it "sees" will be in focus. As the iris gets bigger the space in front of and behind the point of exact focus will shorten. By opening the iris, the depth of field shortens allowing us to focus on the target. We create the worst situation and then improve it by closing the iris. A portrait photographer intentially shortens the depth of field to soften the forground and background by opening the iris. Rory, the #5 welders lens are actually #5 cutting torch glass. Check with a welding shop instead of a photo shop. They come in pairs to fit googles. If you can't find then, send me your address and I'll send you some. (or I might try to deliver them in person) Howard www.videoguardit.com
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How do you install CCTV
vitHoward replied to andy jinks's topic in Installation Help and Accessories
Andy, Do your homework and take baby steps. I've been at this for 18 years and I learn something everyday. There are some really good training classes available. (I just happen to have one) I've learned that most installers don't know the basics of the technologies they are working with. There are dozens of type of coaxial cable but only solid copper center with a 95% copper braid is correct. Most installers don't know that they have to open the iris in order to focus a lens and then shut it back down in order to get the best depth of field. They don't know about the electrical codes that set standards for how cabling is to be done. DO your homework and learn how to do it right. You'll never have to apologize. Howard www.videoguardit.com -
Don't forger that when focusing a lens you MUST OPEN THE IRIS first. Use a #5 welders lens to force a auto-iris open during the day. Otherwise you're likely to have a great picture during the day but the nighttime shot will be fuzzy (out of focus). Howard www.videoguardit.com
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E-FM1 Handheld Focus Indicator
vitHoward replied to Metal Shaper Man's topic in Installation Help and Accessories
I've used one for years. It is one of the best tools for electronically setting up cameras. You can check the camera, cable and monitor to make sure the camera is supplying a good video signal and that the cable and monitor are properly terminated. The focus function is icing on the cake. I claim that we are one of the only companies in town that use an electronic meter to set-up and focus our camera systems. I also use it when I present my two day CCTV Essentials training class. It's very impressive. Howard www.videoguardit.com -
All connectors have to be right size for the cable being used. It does make a difference whether the cable is RG59, RG5, RG11, RG58 (miniature coax) and whether it is standard PVC covered or plenum rated teflon. By the way, stay away from the foil shielded cable no matter what size. Foil shield is for modulated signals like broadcast TV or cable company. Solid copper center and 95% copper braid is the way to go for CCTV. Hope this helps. Howard
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Jasper, Please read my other posts. I can put twist-ons on so that won't come off, BUT i've had several service calls where the center conductor failed. I DON"T USE TWIST-ON'S except for temporary test cables in the shop. We only use 3-piece crimps or the new compression fittings on the customers' sites. I hope this clarifies my previous posting. Howard
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After 18 years in this crazy businesss I've learned that there are pro's and con's to each type of connector. I used to love twist-ons. I can quickly put them on and they don't come off. I had two needless service calls where the video failed many weeks after the install. In one case the center conductor never made it into the center fingers but was touching with a real pretty "Z". The other the fingers grabbed so tight that the center conductor was actually twisted in two. I switched to 3-piece crimp. I bought the right tools with correctly fitting dies and the appropriate strippers. With any technique, it takes a little training and experience to get good at them, but I've got techs' who can do a 3-pc crimp in about 30 seconds. Some people like 2-pc crimp, because they don't have to juggle that tiiny center pin. With the correct tool and training, they're ok too. I've just starting using some of the compression connectors. The process is a little different and It takes a little practice to do it correctly. Some of the connectors have a little hole or slot so you can visual check when the cable is inserted the right length. If the connector doesn't have the hole, then it's almost imperative to mark the cable with felt tip pin to ensure that the cable goes in far enough to seat the center conductor. Most of the brands I've seen are very expensive. There are a few that are very reasonably priced (around a buck). Since I not only install, but teach classes in CCTV, I'm constantly being asked where the various tools and connectors I show can be purchased. I'm giving serious thought to putting together an "online" store . What do you guys think about the idea, having a place to buy connectors and tools that are designed to work together along with other acccessories that we need to install properly. I might even be able to include video clips showing the correct way to install. Howard www.videoguardit.com
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I just re-read my post from several months ago. It should have stated that F-connectors DO NOT maintain the 75 ohm impedence that CCTV signals need. I hope I didn't mislead anyone.
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We offer Nicet preperatory CCTV training throughout the state of Tennessee. The 16 credit CEU course is usually held on Fridays and Saturdays at a convenient venue for attendees. The information is presented in an easily assimilated manner with both visual and hands-on training tools. For more information, visit www.videoguardit.com/cctv_essentials.html I welcome any questions you might have about the course.
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Rory, If I could figure out how to make it financially feasible, I would do it. Give me an excuse to travel to the Bahamas. Howard
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And here is another link. This course was developed by the only member of the NICET CCTV Certification group of subject matter experts that is both a systems integrator and a trainer, me! In order to meet Tennessee's new training requirement, we have scheduled 4 cities during the next two months. Feel free to browse our site. I welcome any questions or comments. Thanks, Howard http://www.videoguardit.com/
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RG59 from Home Depot good enough?
vitHoward replied to G22's topic in Installation Help and Accessories
Jim, I hate to burst your bubble, but quad shield cable is not the correct construction for composite video (the type of signal most CCTV cameras product). It is great for cable TV, but not for CCTV. Hope this helps. Howard -
RG59 from Home Depot good enough?
vitHoward replied to G22's topic in Installation Help and Accessories
The RG number refers to the size of the cable. More important is the contruction. Check my previous post. Hope this helps. -
Rory, Up here, the cable company uses compression type F-connectors (the type with threads that you screw on to the TV). The compression part is good, but f-connectors ARE NOT designed to maintain the 75 ohm impedance that CCTV requires. We just got in our first batch of BNC compression fittings. It took a couple of trys to get the hang of it. We used a two bladed stripper (the same type as for twist on's, although we don't use twist-on's except for emergencies). Pros: Goes on fairly easy. Looks good. Seems to very secure. Cons: Longer than crimp style.
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RG59 & RG6 refer to the size of the cable, not the construction. The proper cable for CCTV is SOLID COPPER CENTER and 95% COPPER BRAID. As a rule of thumb RG59 is good for 750 to 1000 ft. There is a difference in the jacket between indoor cable and outdoor cable. When we go over 1000' we switch to UTP- Unshielded Twisted Pair with baluns. The cost of the baluns increases the cost, while the savings on labor and cable go down. We have pulled as many as 25 pairs vertically through a multi story apartment building in a single 1/2" conduit. Imagine how large 25 coax cables would be.
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Hey Guys, I just got a sneak peak at an HD CCTV camera system last week. The manufacturer doesn't want to wait until the rest of the industry catches up. They are breaking from the pack by sending the video from the camera to a proprietory card that has it's own hard drive. The cards can be mounted individually or grouped in different configurations. This means you can have a DVR of one camera or a hundred. With a chip of 1280 x 1120 it beats anything else I've seen other than on CSI and VEGAS. They also have a hybrid camera that works with progressive scan recorders that's pretty impressive and will be upward scaleable in the future. I can't disclose much info right now in order to protect my developing relationship with the company. Hopefully, I should be able to provide more specific information in the near future.
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My experience with Everfocus has been so bad that I wouldn't give them another chance, I don't care how great their spec's are.
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That's after spending 20 years as an accountant. I had a BIG advantage when I got into distributing CCTV. I KNEW I DIDN'T KNOW. So, I asked a lot of questions. Fortunately, there are formal training programs around now. 17 years ago, the only training was from guys trying to sell you something. They taught you what they wanted you to know, not what you needed to know.
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that was a typo, although I'm a pretty short guy.
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Rory, Wow. That was quite a response! The first color cameras I could get my hands on were CMOS but they were quickly replaced with the CCD's. I probably still have a CMOS or two left around from years ago. I'm going to have to dig them out and compare them with today's models. I do have to take issue with the statement "... where image quality is not paramount, such as security cameras...". I think the public expects that we provide the very best image quality. I hope you saw my post on the other forum. I hope I don't sound like a smart ass, but over 17 years, I've managed to screw up more than most people. I can tell you a lot of things that won't work. Howard
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You just unearthed another problem. Whether it's a 9" or a 60", standard composite video only has 525 scan lines. The smaller picture will normally look a lot better because the lines are smaller and closer together. On some DVD's and Satelite receivers there is circuitry that compensates for the gap between the scan lines. Your modulator won't be able to fill the voids. I really hope I don't come across as a small ass. After 17 years of desiging and installing systems, I've screwed up more than most people. I can tell you a lot of things that won't work. But I've taken the time to find out why.
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Not to take issue, but CMOS is OLD technology. The first chip cameras that replaced tube cameras were MOS. The first color cameras were CMOS. They're like some of my old ties. They've been around so long that they're new again.
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CMOS cameras are typically very cheap and although somewhat better than the old tubes cameras need alot more light than today's CCD chip cameras. Last week I was introduced to a High-Definition camera. It produces more lines than any recorder on the market today can record. They actually had to throttle it back to 720 x 480 so that it can be recorded by capture cards with progressive scan. It's not cheap. Retail $695.00. They use CMOS. GO FIGURE.
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Rory, Have you checked the signal level at the television? I found that a hot signal (12db or more) can cause a poor image that resembles one that is too low (less than 0db). If you don't have a meter, do the math. Use the output from the modulator, subtract 6db (at channel 4, slightly more for higher channels) for each 100ft of coax (you are using the correct type, aren't you?), and subtract the loss from each splitter, couplet, etc. If you aren't in the 3 to 7 db range, then you probably won't get a good picture. Hope this help, Howard