Wall mount or rack mount power supply?

[jevs 0]

I am planning a huge install (automation, security, audio, intercoms, etc.).

 

I am wondering if I would be better to get a rack mount power supply for my cameras, or a wall mount?

 

I will have equipment in racks (Xantech amplfiers, MRAUDIO, possibly the DVR etc.)

 

I will also have wall mount stuff (structured cabling, Omnipro II, expansion units, etc)

 

If the DVR is rack mounted, it seems like having the power supply right above it or below it would be nice since my power and video are on the same cable. but maybe heat will become an issue? This is my first security camera install, so I am unsure what most people do.

 

I seem to be able to find better prices on wall mounted units though.

 

Right now I have 10 cameras planned 350mA each, but want to leave room for growth and possible switch to IP cameras later off same supply if not going POE for cost savings (power wire will already be there)

[scorpion 0]

If your DVR is going to be racked mounted, and you are using triwire then I would use a rack mounted power supply.

 

This will make it real easy for cable managment.

 

I do not know if you are using ladders with your racks, but if you are not you can set up a large pipe above your rack to drop your wire through.

 

If you wanted it to be more of a firewall then you can use this:

 

http://www.uniquefirestop.com/smooth.htm

 

_____________________________________________________________

 

For the others who are reading this thread you will put Intumescent putty inside of the pipe.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intumescent

 

 

This is how we would run wires through a firewall.

[scorpion 0]

Is your home automation "closet" located on the first floor, or on the second floor?

[jevs 0]

Basement in a dedicated electrical room 11' x 5'.

[scorpion 0]

How do you run wiring to the second floor after the construction?

 

The first floor is easy as you have the basement (unless you finish it out).

 

Is there a closet, or an AC closet on the first floor, or some hidden space, and the same on the second floor that would give you a wire run between the attic, second floor, and the first floor?

 

Is it to late to rearrange the floor plan to create an up, and down wire path?

 

This would make it really easy to run wires, or to do maintenance later.

 

 

For those who have to button up a house with drywall, and they have no travel paths, then install that orange conduit from the electric device closet to the first floor somewhere, and to the second floor somewhere, and to the attic.

 

Later you can attach new wiring to the pull strings, and run the cables that you need.

 

What do you think?

[jevs 0]

The second floor is just a 16x25 bonus room with a half bath off of it.

I can punch right through the side wall from the 1st floor living room attic or something if need be. I am planning to have everything possible this house could ever want before it is drwalled. I have been planning for months already.

 

I do have a dead space to go up through though if I need to. I pan to drwyall the basement at some point though, then I wll have some fun running a new wire

[jevs 0]

I have decided to go with the Atronix R615DC1016CB. I couldn't find any decent no name brand rack mounts with adjustable voltage, so I think the extra money spent will be justified. If I have any voltage problems at the cams, (I shouldn't since I sized the power wire properly according to specs) there will still be some voltage drop I can make up for with this supply.

[DVR MAN 0]

I have decided to go with the Atronix R615DC1016CB. I couldn't find any decent no name brand rack mounts with adjustable voltage, so I think the extra money spent will be justified. If I have any voltage problems at the cams, (I shouldn't since I sized the power wire properly according to specs) there will still be some voltage drop I can make up for with this supply.

 

I believe that supply uses circuit breakers. Your cameras are safer with the fused version. I have the fused version, and replaced the 3.5 amp fuse with one that matches the camera that is hooked to it. The glass fuses blow fast which will cause lass damage to the camera. The PID resets and can hammer the camera with 3.5 Amps repeatedly. You will love the way the power inputs are constructed. Just loosen 2 screws, and a four camera plug is ready to wire to (4 inputs/plug/4 plugs). Then plug it back into the supply and tighten the 2 retaining screws. It's your choice!