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whitemotel

power supply question...

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no, didnt by them on ebay....bought them from a website from china...i sent them an email saying they went bad....they say i have a one year warranty...we will see...

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As an installer, you really need to get familiar with the volt/ohm meter. Probably the most used troublsehooting device. Voltage and resistance/continuity make a big difference in any installation.

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Power supplies do not "push" out amperage. Your devices (cameras, DVR's, etc) "draw " amperage. Again, amperage is based on resistance. I always try to use the largest ( in terms of VA) power supplies. VA= Volt Amperes. Motors, lights,coils, etc. etc, use different amperage (current) based on this resistance. Don't purchase cheap meters. Buy one decent volt/ohm meter that will last you a lifetime.

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If that is the manual that came with that camera, then something went wrong some where.

 

That manual is far a Box/Brick type camera like the one below.

 

The camera you provided the link to would of had to look something like the bullet .jpg.

 

Hope your warranty works out.

 

Are you an installer, or hobbyist.

 

I suggest you make this site and google your personal friends, and use all the spare time you have to read, read, read,.

 

Don't be disappointed we all went through some sort of setback at start up.

box_brick.jpg.bc93c82619ae78b4cbca3752e3cbbda9.jpg

Bullet.jpg.05995999b5c6bb01d55ab5d7e7469d75.jpg

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def a learning curve....and def a hobbyist!...got an email from the company i purchased it from they are going to replace it for me...

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Now all you need to do is buy conversion transformer for the three 12vdc bullet camera's, they a only around 12 to 14 dollars. That way you use the altronix and when you get ready to upgrade to better cameras you don't have to rewire everything.

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You may be able to exchange your power supply for their 12 volt DC supply. If you do, I suggest that you get the fused version, and replace the output fuse for said camera with a fuse that suits that camera. Then if there is a problem, that output will blow the fuse and possibly save the camera. With DC voltage, you must have the ( + ) output going to the plus wire on the camera and the negative wire going to the negative wire on the camera. Usually that means that ( + ) positive goes to the center contact on the camera connector and the ( - ) negative wire goes to the outer connector. Or if there are only wires coming out of the camera, the positive wire should be marked positive. The remaining wire will be ( - ) negative.

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yo...

 

i like to, again, thank you guys for the support.....i will def consider everybody's opinion and figure out what will work best....

 

 

thanks again!

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If this is the camera

 

"Bullet Miniature Camera(TS-1822)"

 

Sorry to say, You did fry them.

 

The specs clearly state's

 

Power supply: 12V DC, ¡À10% and 120mA

 

Thought I'd just in here with a couple of comments.

Yep, those cameras were fried due to AC being supplied to a DC camera. Look on the bright side, you've learned something and loosing those cheap cameras will make the lesson more poignant and the memory last longer. Second, I'm almost certain that the illegible word ¡À10% originally said +/- 10%.

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One of my more inexpensive (under $50) model Fluke V/O meters, has an "auto sensing" range on the voltage side. Accurate for low (12 to 120) voltages. Don't use it that often, as most of what I work on is 480 3-phase. I am sure you could find an inexpensive meter at a local Electronics house. The meter would have paid for itself in this case.

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