rory 0 Posted December 29, 2004 ok, 3rd time ive used 12vDC cameras inside a retail store, always been 24VAC. Anyway, terrible glare once again, and color changes levels, on a cheap Dome, but also on a 12VDC hook up for a $400 pro camera (glare is not an issue on the $400 camera just the other problem). So im going to switch them all to 24VAC, but question is, what do other people use where they have 12VDC cameras in a retail store with florsecent lights, its always been terrible video in both cases for me. Only reason I got the 12VDC was client had a couple cameras already that were 12VDC. I have used BW in 12VDC and other 12V Coor outdoors, before but never in a retail store with florescent lighting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MetzLyov 0 Posted December 29, 2004 Rory, Are you refering to glare of the light bouncing by hitting shiney surface? The input voltage of the camera does not matter, rather type of camera that you use. You should be able to mix and match cameras regardless the input voltage and it should not matter. But what matters is the glare that will effect the picture regardless if you camera has a DC or AC voltage. You are stating that you used $400 camera to overcome this. Chances are it may have been Panasonic camera with SDII technology built in. We have tested most of everyones cameras against glare, agains severe light change and differences and nothing comes close to filtering of SDII technology from Panasonic.... Not that I like Panasonic and I do not, but for this type of cases, we always line up this camera and it does work... But then again, the cost is always an issue... Levon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cooperman 0 Posted December 29, 2004 MetzLyov, I couldn't agree more about the power supply for the camera; as you say, it shouldn't make a jot of difference to the overall internal operation of the camera; other than perhaps an 'AC' camera may be 'line locked', which could possibly be a minor advantage with some switching or multiplexing equipment. Rory, where their is a problem with conflicting light sources (i.e. different colour temperatures, e.g. daylight and fluorescent), you could try using a colour temperature correction filter, then the camera is only having to deal with light at one setting, or if reflected glare is a problem, try using a small polarising filter to cut down on reflections. From what you're describing, it sounds like the light is actually flaring on the dome cover itself? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qman 0 Posted December 29, 2004 Is there a way that you could maybe post a screenshot of the problem so that we can look at it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted December 29, 2004 Hey guys, its the GE Ultra View Camera, Pointed at a door entrance, Its actually a great image otherwise, it is just doing what another 12VDC cheap dome did to me at another installation, which the Tech Support from Provideo said Id need a 24VAC. Im going down after 3pm to switch the power supply to 24VAC for that camera and let you know what happens. I tried all kinds of different settings on the camera but it did not stop the problem. Its hard to explain, as it comes and goes, like bright, dim, lighter, but its more like a change in the white color than other colors. Its not on the LAN yet as he is supposed to be buying a router today, Dont think he has a printer there either. Rory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qman 0 Posted December 29, 2004 I think I know what you are talking about, I had the same problems with the cheap domes too, but I found out that it was a shipset problem, not a power one. You got to remember, the power board for the domes are basically the same as the mini cameras, so they have less features to cure things like this for example. A bank type camera has a more robust power board and because of the size, it can accomodate a better chipset to take care of this type of problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted December 29, 2004 Herm, this is the GE Ultraview $400 camera that is doing it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MetzLyov 0 Posted December 30, 2004 Rory, What type of lens are you using?? Who is the maker of the lens? We have seen this problem with Ultraview cameras. Customer wanted to use their existing lenses (Rainbow) along with these cameas. The lenses were varifocal and were autoiris. However, we had serious problems in adjusting the cameras and specially, the camera "was not able to correctly read the colors and lighting changes". We replaced one of the lenses with Computar similar spec lens and then we saw huge difference... It worked perfectly and the customer end up picking up and replaceing all the lenses... I can tell you that the problem is not the power supply! Hope this helps... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted December 30, 2004 It was the power supply I changed it for a 24VAC and the problem went away, line lock also. Changed it back to the 12VDC power and it came right back. 24VAC is a much better image also. Could have been a bad sinc with the other 12VDC cheap cameras.. Computar lens Varifocal Auto Iris. Rory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cooperman 0 Posted December 30, 2004 Rory, Typical Brit response might be ... 'how peculier'! What you're describing is, no problem when the camera and lighting are syncronised to the same mains frequency, but when the camera is switched to an internally generated 60Hz reference (as when 12v DC powered), then there appears to be a type of colour fringing possibly caused by the image sampling and lighting being slightly out of sync. That's a new one on me! Some guys have all the fun Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MetzLyov 0 Posted December 30, 2004 Rory, I am glad you solved it... Only question that I have is what was the VA rating of the 12VDC power supply vs. 24VAC power supply??? Just curious... Levon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted December 30, 2004 it is a multiple 12VDC power supply, 6a, only 4 cameras were connected, Ive put it back on the 12VDC today during the day, set it back to defaults and set the ATW to WIDE, and the WD setting to general, seems okay now, dont know what its doing at night though, yet, but day is okay and lights are on in the day also. Weird. Still, I did have this problem with 3 provideo 12VDc domes in the past and was told to switch to 24VAC ones ..course didnt, but anyway .. the image of those cheap domes are so crappy, I just dont get how people can use them so much. I guess Im just used to the more expensive product and the better images Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted December 31, 2004 Rory, Typical Brit response might be ... 'how peculier'! What you're describing is, no problem when the camera and lighting are syncronised to the same mains frequency, but when the camera is switched to an internally generated 60Hz reference (as when 12v DC powered), then there appears to be a type of colour fringing possibly caused by the image sampling and lighting being slightly out of sync. That's a new one on me! Some guys have all the fun Tell me about it! Now he doesnt want to pay for Cable Internet at the business as it costs triple what he pays at home ($150 per month basic cable 512kb). So I need to get wireless network from his home to the business, that should be fun! I know a couple guys here that do wireless networking on a large scale, one has their own wireless ISP, which evidentaly uses the Cable ISP's backbone anyway, and they are not cheap, other way is a basic wireless router with a large antenna up high on either end, he is only 2 miles from his business to his house...anyway, thats going to be someone elses headache! Rory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted January 1, 2005 nah, still doing it at night with all the florescent lights on, 12VDC, in 24VAC it doesnt, but then I get interference, but that could be the old plug im using, as I ran the wire myself and its nowhere near electric or lighting, put it back to 12VDC, Ill change the lens to a fujinon and see if it matters, as thats what i used with the last Ultraview without any problems, plus its at 2.8mm width so we'll be zooming it right about 6-8mm on the door once the other couple cameras come in on Monday/Tuesday. I ran Cat5 but waiting on the router power cable so tomorrow hopefully ill be able to get a video clip of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted January 5, 2005 ok, heads up, i changed the Computar lens, for a GE Kalatel Lens, and the problem went away totally, at 12VDC! Anyway, I gots myself a Computar lens now, he he! Yeah, I know, Computar being a bad azz lens,but anwyay, lesson learned ...... buy a wide dynamic or camera with special lighting, get the same lens from the same manufactuter. Thanks to MetzLyov for the heads up on the lens issue, i may have just had a different computar lens, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
