BNC connectors

[PeedleJ 0]

I know that crimp on connectors are cheapest. Are they any better or worse than the other flavors, twist on etc? Any recommendations on strippers, crimpers, installation tips(funds limited)?

[scorpion 0]

This is one that is easy to work with.

 

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=970408&Ntt=970408&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

 

This is another style that I have. It works great on RG 6, but not so great with RG59 especially the cheaper product types.

 

It is great if you need to make a "custom" cut rather than a traditional stripper type of a cut.

 

 

The one that I have looks similiar to the first link. It had a "stop" on it to place the coax up against. I broke the stop off so that I can get a longer "stinger" on the center conductor for my twist on connectors.

[scorpion 0]

On my website

 

http://scorpiontheater.com/law.aspx

 

scroll down past the fence camera pictures to the Shoot House pictures.

 

Towards the bottom of the page there are some pics of how I strip, and connect.

 

I am not saying this is the best way. I am just saying this is one way of many that you can do it.

[PeedleJ 0]

What is the "Camera wire service loop, and wire "tensioner"." for?

[scorpion 0]

Several reasons.

 

There is no place to hide the wiring such as in an attic, or inside of a wall.

 

If there is some kind of an "event" where I have to cut the wire back, and get some fresh wire to make a connection then the wire is going to be too short.

 

This was an open air set up. I ran the wire to the camera, and I am using the camera wire length as a "reserve". I coiled up the camera wire, and used zip ties to hold it. Now if I cut the wire, then I can make up the distance with the extra length from the camera wire.

 

I like the wiring to be "tight", and not "droopy" so I pull on the wire to take out any slack.

 

No other reason then for the above.

 

I want it to be practical, and neat.

[survtech 0]

Scorpion,

 

One problem - you're exceeding the "bend radius" for RG-59U coax.

 

 

From Belden:

 

Product FAQ

Bend Radius

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The rule of thumb is to not exceed a bend radius of less than 10 times the diameter of the cable. Some cables are tolerant down to 4 times their diameter, but these are exceptions to the rule.

 

Since RG-59U is about .25" in diameter, your service loops should be at least 5" (2x2.5") in diameter. For instance, the mechanical specs for Belden 1426A are:

 

Mechanical Characteristics (Overall)

Operating Temperature Range: -30°C To +75°C

UL Temperature Rating: 60°C

Non-UL Temperature Rating: 75°C

Bulk Cable Weight: 33 lbs/1000 ft.

Max. Recommended Pulling Tension: 68 lbs.

Min. Bend Radius (Install)/Minor Axis: 2.500 in.

 

From Wikipedia:

 

Bend radius, which is measured to the inside curvature, is the minimum radius one can bend a pipe, tube, sheet, cable or hose to without kinking it, damaging it, or shortening its life. The smaller the bend radius, the greater is the material flexibility (as the radius of curvature decreases, the curvature increases). The diagram below illustrates a cable with a seven-centimeter bend radius.

 

[Soundy 1]

As far as connector types, I personally like compression connectors. They're one piece (well, most of them are), lock on solid, and most designs are weatherproof. I've used several different styles, some I like, some I don't... mostly using GEM brand and find they work really well. I tried some that actually had a separate crimp-on center pin, which I found really stupid, since I have to carry two crimpers there (or no doubt, buy their custom crimper). Our ADI/Burtek carries another brand (the name escapes me) that were really nice - the center pin is pushed up inside the barrel so you don't have to "hope" that the center conductor hits it, and then you push it into place along with the wire... those are good but they come in a really stupid plastic tube that you're supposed to use to "squeeze" them out.

 

I've had problems with most standard one- and two-piece crimp designs I've tried... although it could just be that most didn't properly fit the crimper dies I have. I've mostly used the three-piece type (body, barrel and sleeve) and found them fairly reliable.

 

Twist-ons I don't like - partly because they don't hold if you don't strip the cable just right, but mostly because your wrist gets really f'n sore if you have more than a half-dozen or so cameras (remember, each camera is two connectors!)

[survtech 0]

Soundy,

 

I agree with you about compression connectors. They're practically bullet-proof. We use AIM 27-9103 3-piece standard connectors for plenum RG-59 indoors but have found that compression connectors are the only ones that work on mini-coax.

[scorpion 0]

Survtech,

 

I agree with you one hundred percent.

 

The bent wire is not RG 59 though. That is the camera lead.

 

That is how it came out of the box.

[survtech 0]

Is that one of the cameras that comes out with 4 18-20 gauge wires? In that case, the bend radius would not be a problem.