Changing out Installed (non-IR) Bullet Cameras

[todd2 0]

Say you have an installed setup (with wires disappearing into walls) and

need to replace a bullet camera. I'm talking about the little lipstick case

ones. I notice the cylinder seems to be in three parts. The front piece

can be removed to change lenses, but I see a seam near the back too

that makes me wonder whether you also unscrew it at the back.

 

Is the power & video socketed inside like a board camera? Will unscrewing

it at the back let me change out the camera that way? Cause otherwise,

I either need to fish whole wire out of the wall to replace the camera & wire

as a unit, or cut the wire and resolder the new one. I'm worried that

such a "splice" may reduce video quality since video lines are usually

high quality for maximum bandwidth.

[blake 0]

The camera should have a bnc and power connector probably tucked away.You need to find those and unplug them so that you can change the camera.Do you have any pics of the cam?

[todd2 0]

Yeah the cable is 1-2 feet long and the junction is inside the wall. That's why I was

hoping the camera had a little header connector on it like board cameras do.

[Soundy 1]

Say you have an installed setup (with wires disappearing into walls) and

need to replace a bullet camera. I'm talking about the little lipstick case

ones. I notice the cylinder seems to be in three parts. The front piece

can be removed to change lenses, but I see a seam near the back too

that makes me wonder whether you also unscrew it at the back.

 

That would really depend on that camera's specific design. We could say "probably" but there are just too many variations on the theme out there for anyone to say with certainty without at least a make and model (and even that may not help). You're pretty much on your own to experiment with that...

 

Is the power & video socketed inside like a board camera? Will unscrewing it at the back let me change out the camera that way?

 

That's a definite "maybe". Chances are, the wires attach to the camera board with a simple three-pin header, as the power and video likely share a ground. The trick is, if you do get it apart, you have to find another board with the same connector using the same pinouts... and depending on how things are packed into the case, the pins may have to be in the exact same position. There is no "standard" for these things.

 

as a unit, or cut the wire and resolder the new one. I'm worried that such a "splice" may reduce video quality since video lines are usually

high quality for maximum bandwidth.

 

I wouldn't count on the wiring for a cheap camera being "high quality", or even "medium quality".

[rory 0]

Just open the camera up and pull the lens and board out, depending on the camera you may need to go through the rear of it to access the wiring also. It should have 1 small clip to the board and as mentioned it could be 3 or 4 wires, and they could be ANY color. Typically ofcourse the colors are Red and Black for Power, and Yellow for Video, the video ground could be missing or could just be an outer braid, or could be another color, or could just be the black ground for power and video. Oh yeah, make sure POWER down the cameras first.

 

Anyway, wont be the best thing to do, but you could try it if you are adventurous. Your best bet is to find a camera with similar specs. If you can get the same exact camera then sure you should be able to just swap out the guts.

 

Example: In search of wire color identification, I just gutted a Vandle Prood IR Bullet Camera which used White for the Video Signal and blue for the Video ground. It also had a dummy green wire in there, so there were actually 3 wires but only 2 were of use. The power was red and black, but the IR had its own power and that was Orange and Purple, that IR Ring also controlled the camera's iris, and it was a fixed lens camera with no ICR. It also had a looping Yellow wire that tied into the Red somewhere in the cable joint, to work a blinking LED (idea is to cut it to disable that LED - funny thing is the manual says cut the ORANGE wire, which powers the IR Ring!). The White, Blue, Red, and Black actually came from the camera board using a single clip; the purple, orange, and yellow went to the IR Ring to a clip which also had a white wire going from the IR Ring to the Camera board. Ofcourse a simple bullet camera should not have these issues. Getting it all back together was the fun part.

[zmxtech 0]

I must say most of them are pretty poor design often there is no shield on the video which induces all sorts of crud onto the power rails, sometimes affecting other cameras of the same design....

 

Many times I have pulled bullets apart to put "grown-ups" wiring in there !

 

 

z

[blake 0]

Just open the camera up and pull the lens and board out, depending on the camera you may need to go through the rear of it to access the wiring also. It should have 1 small clip to the board and as mentioned it could be 3 or 4 wires, and they could be ANY color. Typically ofcourse the colors are Red and Black for Power, and Yellow for Video, the video ground could be missing or could just be an outer braid, or could be another color, or could just be the black ground for power and video. Oh yeah, make sure POWER down the cameras first.

 

Anyway, wont be the best thing to do, but you could try it if you are adventurous. Your best bet is to find a camera with similar specs. If you can get the same exact camera then sure you should be able to just swap out the guts.

 

Example: In search of wire color identification, I just gutted a Vandle Prood IR Bullet Camera which used White for the Video Signal and blue for the Video ground. It also had a dummy green wire in there, so there were actually 3 wires but only 2 were of use. The power was red and black, but the IR had its own power and that was Orange and Purple, that IR Ring also controlled the camera's iris, and it was a fixed lens camera with no ICR. It also had a looping Yellow wire that tied into the Red somewhere in the cable joint, to work a blinking LED (idea is to cut it to disable that LED - funny thing is the manual says cut the ORANGE wire, which powers the IR Ring!). The White, Blue, Red, and Black actually came from the camera board using a single clip; the purple, orange, and yellow went to the IR Ring to a clip which also had a white wire going from the IR Ring to the Camera board. Ofcourse a simple bullet camera should not have these issues. Getting it all back together was the fun part.

Sounds like one of those Eclipse cams with the flashing deterrent led..

[rory 0]

Sounds like one of those Eclipse cams with the flashing deterrent led..

 

Yet all that LED does is say hey look at me I am a camera come and destroy me

[blake 0]

It gets me how some of the cameras mounted in clear view,criminals still don't see them because their sooo focused on the crime their trying to commit.I looked at the Eclipse ECL-557HIM at one point,but then i read that the Eclipse dome cameras aren't that good on top of ir domes of that style not being good.I do like the low profile look of it though.

Edited October 31, 2009 by Guest

[rory 0]

Yeah but I mount these cameras out in the bush so at night when it is pitch dark, that blinking LED is like a dam lighthouse.

[blake 0]

How do you rate the 557HIM in performance?

[rory 0]

Haven't used it, doubt I would.

Used the NON IR models though, indoors, and they were okay.

[blake 0]

So which of their bullet cams has that flashing LED?

[rory 0]

The 599T. Vandal IR Bullet. Biggest problem with that camera is the short cable, you need the box right next to it. 2nd problem with it is the silly torx tool which only has the hole on one side of it, the short side. 3rd problem is the base is so strong, hard to drill out larger, and it only fits small screws. Mounting this camera and hooking up is a PITA. It is good as a camera for what it is, non ICR and digitally enhances the colors well in the daytime, though Ive seen better obviously from ICR cameras. Point of a bullet camera is the ease of installation, that goes out the Window with this one. I could forget the other issues I mentioned, if only they provided a longer cable. BTW Arm Electronics also sells this camera but in a Silver housing.

Edited October 31, 2009 by Guest

[blake 0]

As if the glowing IR led's aren't enough.

[blake 0]

To bad it doesn't have an ir cut filter.

[rory 0]

To bad it doesn't have an ir cut filter.

 

I am impressed with how well it does without it though, I mean it is night and day difference between this and other Non ICR cameras, the daytime colors actually look good. And it is harder to knock, if one is looking for that. Literally the vandal shell it is in is a tough bugger. But for a couple bucks less, I can get the easier to install CNB True Day Night. Only problem is, it is not here in the Bahamas right now, these are.

 

But I think we have hijacked this thread too much already

[blake 0]

Yeah,you and i do get to talkin to much

[Soundy 1]

Vandal IR Bullet. ... Mounting this camera and hooking up is a PITA.

 

Gee Rory, wasn't it you that was just telling me in another thread, it's the installer's fault if he has trouble mounting a bullet cam??

[rory 0]

 

Gee Rory, wasn't it you that was just telling me in another thread, it's the installer's fault if he has trouble mounting a bullet cam??

No idea what you are talking about.