DKtucson 0 Posted April 12, 2010 Hey folks, Here's the situation--did an 8 cam install. The client was adamant about it going into conduit to make it more vandal proof. I have one fairly short run of cable--about 50ft max--where I get a pretty blue screen. Factors: RG59 siamese cables with 7 of the 8 cables bottlenecking into a 1" conduit going into the house. Power checks ok at 12vdc. Using twist on bnc connectors. It worked for a bit until I went to finish off mounting the junction box cover--which makes me think bad connector/cable. I've used the same connector ends on a similar length of cable NOT going through the conduit tightness and the cam works fine. I did an initial continuity check by stripping the far end and joining the center core to the mesh , then went to the inside termination and put my test leads black to the mesh and red to the center core wire--it showed continuity. But my thought is that if they are mashed together elsewhere it will show the same result and be grounded out. So..for a more valid test my thought would be to hook up 12vdc to the video cable and see if 12v is being passed through to the far side----any other pointers or things I'm missing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tomcctv 190 Posted April 12, 2010 Hey folks,Here's the situation--did an 8 cam install. The client was adamant about it going into conduit to make it more vandal proof. I have one fairly short run of cable--about 50ft max--where I get a pretty blue screen. Factors: RG59 siamese cables with 7 of the 8 cables bottlenecking into a 1" conduit going into the house. Power checks ok at 12vdc. Using twist on bnc connectors. It worked for a bit until I went to finish off mounting the junction box cover--which makes me think bad connector/cable. I've used the same connector ends on a similar length of cable NOT going through the conduit tightness and the cam works fine. I did an initial continuity check by stripping the far end and joining the center core to the mesh , then went to the inside termination and put my test leads black to the mesh and red to the center core wire--it showed continuity. But my thought is that if they are mashed together elsewhere it will show the same result and be grounded out. So..for a more valid test my thought would be to hook up 12vdc to the video cable and see if 12v is being passed through to the far side----any other pointers or things I'm missing? Hi DK. undo your center core and mesh and test again. this will also show if you have a short. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpion 0 Posted April 13, 2010 I second the above advice. I have a question: Do you have video at the camera with a monitor? I would cut the end off of each end of the cable, and reconnect the connectors, and see if that clears the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DKtucson 0 Posted April 13, 2010 thanks for the replies..I'll be back at the site on thursday. The camera works ok hooked up to a different line and a camera that is working at another spot does not work when hooked up to that cable. IT DID WORK MOMENTARILY--until I went to fully mount the cam plate cover to the gang box --jiggling the wires caused it to go out. I have redone the ends numerous times and am doing it the same as the other 7 cams that are working fine. I'm also swapping out connector ends and those same ends work on another cam. I've taken that camera down completely and wired it up on a desk and jiggled the wires--it stays on so it's not the cam pigtails. I have misgivings about conduits that are tight.. the nature of having to pull the cable stresses the cable. I've also ordered up some better crimp connectors Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted April 13, 2010 It would take a *LOT* of force to actually crush the wire to the point it shorts between the core and the shield. You could drive over most coax with a truck and while it's not very good for the cable, it wouldn't cause a short, and likely wouldn't cause a break either. At worst, crushing it like that would affect impedence, which could affect loading and noise rejection. For a short, you'd need some sort of physical damage by an outside object. If you can, get ahold of a 75-ohm terminator, they make handy diagnostic tools: put one on one end of the line, then measure resistance across the tip and shield at the other end. A single reading will tell you if there's a short or open. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites