replaced lenses to wider angle--now getting IR glare

[DKtucson 0]

hello everyone,

I did an install for a gal in a home and she wanted dome cams for the anti-vandal dooh-dah and we swapped out the 6.0mm lenses for some 3.6's---all bought from same vendor. I've reused the rubber "boot" that jacketed the original lens but seem to be picking up some ghosting/glare from the swap-out in night vision mode..is this the curse of the "affordale" (read: cheap) domes or is there a fix-aroni for the cheesearoni images... daytime they look great.

[Soundy 1]

..is this the curse of the "affordale" (read: cheap) domes ...

 

Give that man a cigar-oni!

 

Best way around it is to use separate IR illuminators. Worst case (read: cheapest client), you could remove the illuminator from inside the dome and mount it somewhere near the dome (inside something clear if it needs to be weatherproof).

[DKtucson 0]

Thanks for the reply Soundy. I took one of the modded cams home with me so I could shop for a more angled bracket--or fabricate one. In experimenting with it I simply pulled the boot out a bit to help insure that it mates with the polycarbonate surface--this helped immensly.

This client is being a bit difficult as she wants domes---but wants them to be able to look at a more sideways angle of view. Umm domes are designed to look down from above--not so much sideways per se. We take the dome off and can place the camera against the rim of the inside--but putting the dome on causes it to be displaced and bump back down. And her idea of "vandal proof" is ignoring a well placed paintball gun round or quiet .22 loaded with Aguila Super Colibri (silent ammo--no powder--uses a large primer to propel the round.)

So I'm going to be mounting brackets at slightly ****ed angles to compensate for the angles she wants.

And she is well aware that night vision is limited to a very narrow zone in front of the cameras

[Soundy 1]

This client is being a bit difficult as she wants domes---but wants them to be able to look at a more sideways angle of view. Umm domes are designed to look down from above--not so much sideways per se.

That depends on the dome. I've worked with plenty of designs that can be mounted on a wall, and look straight back down the wall with no hacking or modding required. I wouldn't even say most of them are more expensive ones, because I've seen plenty of pricey, brand-name domes that can't do it properly (Pelco IS-90 and IS-110 models, in particular), and plenty of decent bargain cameras that can (unfortunately the ones we used to use the most are no longer made).

 

You'll find CNB cameras are popular hereabouts for their value (great quality for the price)... and all their dome designs that I've worked with are capable of looking straight down a wall.

 

And her idea of "vandal proof" is ignoring a well placed paintball gun round or quiet .22 loaded with Aguila Super Colibri (silent ammo--no powder--uses a large primer to propel the round.)

 

Very few designs, dome or otherwise, will be immune to a blob of paint or a lead slug hitting it at the speed of sound, and those that are will cost a mint. "Vandal proof" should more properly be called "vandal resistant".

[DKtucson 0]

Moving the boot closer to the lens was still a poor showing--what I did was take very small pieces of door threashold foam and put that at the base of the boot--this absolutely mashed it against the polycarbonate dome interior--still have nasty glare but some cams "improved". There was a moment, when a car's headlights shined into the camera--it turned the IR off and the scene was PERFECT from the illumination of the cars headlights.

I'm looking to add exterior IR emitters and have these questions/specs:

Power supply : 12v 5amp central box from:

[edit by mod-store link removed]

 

8 Dome cameras from same outfit:

[edit by mod-store link removed] 300Ma rating with internal IR emitters

 

The external emitters I have sourced are 400Ma rated for consumption also at 12vdc.

 

Here's the $64 question:

Can I safely disconnect the internal IR emitters in the domes--tap into the EXISTING power leads on the cams and have that power supply keep up and power cams AND emitters? If I'm NOT using the internal emitters to the cams this should help a bit.

Also, if need be , on some cams I might be able to swing a plug-in power supply to a localized outlet to take the load off the centralized box.

8 cams at 300Ma = 2.4amps

1 cam is an interior bullet that is working fine so I only need to incorporate 7 IR emitters at 400ma = 2.8amps

Total load on the power supply 5.2amps with emitters added

 

any opinions or experience with this?

[thekuai 0]

Moving the boot closer to the lens was still a poor showing--what I did was take very small pieces of door threashold foam and put that at the base of the boot--this absolutely mashed it against the polycarbonate dome interior--still have nasty glare but some cams "improved". There was a moment, when a car's headlights shined into the camera--it turned the IR off and the scene was PERFECT from the illumination of the cars headlights.

I'm looking to add exterior IR emitters and have these questions/specs:

Power supply : 12v 5amp central box from:

[edit by mod-store link removed]

 

8 Dome cameras from same outfit:

[edit by mod-store link removed] 300Ma rating with internal IR emitters

 

The external emitters I have sourced are 400Ma rated for consumption also at 12vdc.

 

Here's the $64 question:

Can I safely disconnect the internal IR emitters in the domes--tap into the EXISTING power leads on the cams and have that power supply keep up and power cams AND emitters? If I'm NOT using the internal emitters to the cams this should help a bit.

Also, if need be , on some cams I might be able to swing a plug-in power supply to a localized outlet to take the load off the centralized box.

8 cams at 300Ma = 2.4amps

1 cam is an interior bullet that is working fine so I only need to incorporate 7 IR emitters at 400ma = 2.8amps

Total load on the power supply 5.2amps with emitters added

 

any opinions or experience with this?

 

[edit by mod-store link removed]

9 Channel DC Power Supply Box for Security Cameras 12 VDC, 10 Amp

$39.99 plus free shipping

[DKtucson 0]

actually I called the distributor and ran the specs by them and the math works

 

Each of the cam circuits is rated at 750Ma with the fuse. If I unplug the emitter on the camera the 300Ma consumption drops down to 200Ma---add in the 400Ma external emitter and I'm only pulling 600Ma per circuit--below the overload range. They say that my current power supply should be sufficient.