Question about ip cameras and license's

[tmunroe 0]

I tried a CNB analog camera but wasnt happy at the night shot, couldnt make out cars driving by my residence because of the glare from there headlights and tailights, would a ip camera be better at night, I was looking at the CNB Ip Camera http://www.cnbtec.com/en/html/product/product.php?seqx_prod=1196

 

I have been reading through the forums and I am confused, do i have to buy a license for the camera in addition to the camera, can't I just plug into a nvr and record, it looks like this one connects to you network and you can view it remoteley or do I have to pay for license to do that Very CONFUSED!!!

[Soundy 1]

I tried a CNB analog camera but wasnt happy at the night shot, couldnt make out cars driving by my residence because of the glare from there headlights and tailights, would a ip camera be better at night, I was looking at the CNB Ip Camera http://www.cnbtec.com/en/html/product/product.php?seqx_prod=1196

 

Which camera did you try? There's a wide variety of CNB cameras with different features and capabilities, including different low-light performance.

 

An IP camera won't necessarily work any better. First of all, IP is just a different interface: you could have two identical cameras, one with analog output, and one where the analog video goes to an internal IP encoder, and both would have identical image. IP mainly comes in handy for megapixel video, because analog video standards don't allow the higher resolution.

 

Second, all else being equal, megapixel cameras tend to have poorer low-light performance than analog, because the physical pixels on the sensor are smaller, and thus collect less light.

 

So no, just dropping an IP camera in there won't, in itself, solve your problem.

 

I have been reading through the forums and I am confused, do i have to buy a license for the camera in addition to the camera, can't I just plug into a nvr and record, it looks like this one connects to you network and you can view it remoteley or do I have to pay for license to do that Very CONFUSED!!!

I haven't run across an IP camera yet that requires a license to work. What DOES usually require licenses, is the NVR software itself. There are a wide number of licensing schemes in use... some NVRs, you buy a license for each camera you want to add; others, you might buy in "blocks" (5, 10, 20 cameras, etc.). A few just have a flat rate for as many cameras as you want, and still others are free (but as with most free things, of limited functionality). Some camera manufacturers give you free software that allows you to use as many of THEIR cameras as you want, as well as buying licenses to use other cameras with it.

[tmunroe 0]

Thanks

 

I was trying the CNB vcm-24vf

[rory 0]

I tried a CNB analog camera but wasnt happy at the night shot, couldnt make out cars driving by my residence because of the glare from there headlights and tailights, would a ip camera be better at night, I was looking at the CNB Ip Camera http://www.cnbtec.com/en/html/product/product.php?seqx_prod=1196

That definately will not be as good as the VxM-24VF.

However if you are experiencing glare, perhaps there is some other reason.

Is the light level so low and the lens maybe not focused properly?

Have you tried adjusting the SLBC?

There is always the Blue-i CNB camera, VCB-34VF?

[tmunroe 0]

The lighting is good a street light 100 foot away and the neighbors houses light up the area well. I out the slbc on high which helped put doesnt help with the glare from headlights and tailights. The cars are traveling past my house not directly toward the camera

[rory 0]

Thats strange. Here is a VBM-24VF with default settings

 

No lights

 

Normal Lights

 

Brights

[tmunroe 0]

well the camera switches to black and white i notice yours is color, so maybe i dont have as good of lighting as yours. should i leave it in color mode, you think that would help, i dont have a dvr yet so i cant send you any test shots. what settings would you recommend

[Soundy 1]

Well, looks like Rory has enough flood lights on the yard to keep the camera from switching... which is probably why the headlights don't "bloom" as much.

[rory 0]

I have a big dusk to dawn light there ..

 

I would first default the settings.

Set the sharpness to max.

Leave everything else default, DNR is low

But perhaps adjust the SBLC .. move it higher while testing the view.

 

Its important its focused properly though, as in full light you wont notice it as much but under low light it can cause things like lights to appear with even more glare. They should come focused to 2.8 but not all of them always do. Its a day night IR corrected lens so once its focused good there should not be any major shift in focus. Just dont focus it in bright sunlight or you may not get an optimal focus.

[rory 0]

Also yes color may help with the glare, but if its too dark then it wont see as it would in BW.

Note the glare from the street light in the following images: (taken from crappy DVR in dark area)

See how it is much worst in BW mode:

 

 

Now that said, you can balance the light by using another light source, eg. IR in this case:

See how the glare from the street light has gone away now

[Soundy 1]

Just dont focus it in bright sunlight or you may not get an optimal focus.

This is key - it's an auto-iris lens, meaning in bright light the iris closes down, which gives you greater depth of focus... so something at a certain distance may be in focus over a wide range of adjustment. When it gets dark, though, the iris opens up and lowers the depth, so a much narrower range of distances are in focus, and the distance that you set the focus at in the daytime may now be out of focus.

[tmunroe 0]

thanks for the info, i wil test it tonight and report

[tmunroe 0]

Ok you suggestions helped thank you, I also moved the camera closer to the area that i wanted to see the cars and that helped a lot, i think i might have been too far away at approximately 80ft. i just wish these domes wernt so big, is there anything out there similar to them in a smaller design

[rory 0]

Im still looking. The VCM is a little bigger due to the extra base, but not that much of a difference.

Im looking for a bullet camera right now to match it, so far found a KT&C TDN IR Bullet im going to test, it has alot of the same OSD features of the 24VFs, and is 2.8-11mm. Asked someone to order one so I can test but they havent got around to it yet. Cost is almost double of the VBM-24VF, but alot less than double of the VCM-24VF, but that seems the way it is with bullets. CNB dont seem to have any bullets to match their own dome. Ofcourse these bullets can get pretty large also, will have to wait and see. My main thing with a TDN IR bullet is I also want to be able to disable the IR, in most older TDN IR Bullets you can do this easily by just disconnecting the IR Ring, in all new ones Ive used so far its been more difficult and in most cases impossible - hope this KT&C has that option.

 

BTW you could always paint it to camouflage it some ..

[tmunroe 0]

I know i looked to they dont offer anything smaller or comparable. I might end up returning this one and ordering the vcb-34vf. i have a lot of sun in the afternoon so i think the wdr may be a better choice, cnb also has a new model with xwdr is that better than wdr, its wierd the camera with xwdr is cheaper than the one with wdr. So many choices now its decision time for a dvr, salesman ive been dealing with is pushing a nuvico al-1600. I researched a lot and the more i do the more i get confused, one thing i hate is when you go to a manufacter website and try to do a live demo of a dvr only for it not to work, you would think haveing there live demo up and running would be a priority, i had to call a couple of them to have it fixed

[rory 0]

the WDR should be better than the XWDR as its double scan.

[hardwired 0]

Just dont focus it in bright sunlight or you may not get an optimal focus.

This is key - it's an auto-iris lens, meaning in bright light the iris closes down, which gives you greater depth of focus... so something at a certain distance may be in focus over a wide range of adjustment. When it gets dark, though, the iris opens up and lowers the depth, so a much narrower range of distances are in focus, and the distance that you set the focus at in the daytime may now be out of focus.

 

I always focus cameras in daytime covering the lens with a #6 welding filter, that allows the iris to open enough to get a decent night focus with bright daylight.

[Soundy 1]

Just dont focus it in bright sunlight or you may not get an optimal focus.

This is key - it's an auto-iris lens, meaning in bright light the iris closes down, which gives you greater depth of focus... so something at a certain distance may be in focus over a wide range of adjustment. When it gets dark, though, the iris opens up and lowers the depth, so a much narrower range of distances are in focus, and the distance that you set the focus at in the daytime may now be out of focus.

 

I always focus cameras in daytime covering the lens with a #6 welding filter, that allows the iris to open enough to get a decent night focus with bright daylight.

Great tip! " title="Applause" />

[rory 0]

 

I always focus cameras in daytime covering the lens with a #6 welding filter, that allows the iris to open enough to get a decent night focus with bright daylight.

How can you see the video with the sunlight?

Down here on the monitors outside you cant see anything to get a proper focus.

[shropna 0]

 

I always focus cameras in daytime covering the lens with a #6 welding filter, that allows the iris to open enough to get a decent night focus with bright daylight.

How can you see the video with the sunlight?

Down here on the monitors outside you cant see anything to get a proper focus.

BTW. Better way to set proper focusing, is to set camera shutter speed to, for example, 1/10000 sec., or, set shutter to Auto, and fully open lens with Level controls. When you do this, lens iris will be fully open at day . Sometimes is difficult to find or have good NEUTRAL density welding filter.... Some welding filters are not neutral, but, as example, more green color pass, so, you can have some problems, caused by lens chromatic aberration.... And, if you at high places, more "useful" is hold you body on "lever", instead hold filter

For focusing at bright sunlight you can use, for example, this tool:

http://smartsecuritycamera.com/assets/files/products/Pelco/Pelco_C2912.pdf

Hm, about 10 years ago, I'm made toll, like this, from broken camcorder view finder

Edited November 9, 2010 by Guest

[rory 0]

BTW. Better way to set proper focusing, is to set camera shutter speed to, for example, 1/10000 sec., or, set shutter to Auto, and fully open lens with Level controls. When you do this, lens iris will be fully open at day . Sometimes is difficult to find or have good NEUTRAL density welding filter.... Some welding filters are not neutral, but, as example, more green color pass, so, you can have some problems, caused by lens chromatic aberration....

For focusing at bright sunlight you can use, for example, this tool:

http://smartsecuritycamera.com/assets/files/products/Pelco/Pelco_C2912.pdf

Hm, about 10 years ago, I'm made toll, like this, from broken camcorder view finder

 

Yep that would work. Best thing pelco came out with yet

 

Yeah cant get welding filters in this country, nor the NDF. What if we just take the iris out temporarily One thing though, with many cctv cameras without an IR Cut filter it is almost impossible to focus them good outside in the sunlight.

[shropna 0]

Yep that would work. Best thing pelco came out with yet

 

Yeah cant get welding filters in this country, nor the NDF. What if we just take the iris out temporarily One thing though, with many cctv cameras without an IR Cut filter it is almost impossible to focus them good outside in the sunlight.

Pelco's CST150 tools was not reliable. Its just an idea, how to setup focus at bright sunlight

About cameras with ICR. Almost ALL sensors are more sensitive to red wavelength. So, what i mean about welding filters green wavelength pass ....

[rory 0]

Pelco's CST150 tools was not reliable. Its just an idea, how to setup focus at bright sunlight

About cameras with ICR. Almost ALL sensors are more sensitive to red wavelength. So, what i mean about welding filters green wavelength pass ....

ok thanks, guess ill stick to the controlled environment for now then, it hasnt let me down yet, least with wide fovs.

[cglaeser 0]

Yeah cant get welding filters in this country, nor the NDF.

 

Do they have eye doctors in your country? Next time you get your eyes checked, grab some extra .30 cent plastic sunglasses they hand out when your eyes are dilated. Then combine as many as needed.

 

Best,

Christopher