Terminating CAT5 with RJ45 plugs

[Numb-nuts 1]

Today I bought myself a pack of 10 x RJ45 plugs, I have had a crimper for a long time but never needed it.

The idea was to train myself in fitting these plugs to Cat5 cable. I have the tester, I have the colour convention

but I don't have the technique.

 

I started off by stripping back about two or three inches of Cat5 and unravelling the pairs.

I straightened them by tensioning them all over the plastic handle of the crimper, then proceeded to

line them up in colour order over my finger and then cutting them to length with a scissors.

Carefully placing them into the plug and pushing them home.

 

Well I have maybe two plugs left and haven't been successful in getting all the conductors in

or in getting them all in the right position yet.

 

Any tips?

 

[NotoriousBRK 0]

Here is my suggestion: don't do this (and I'm sure I'll get flak for this).

 

Backbone cable in a structured cable plant is *punched down*, not terminated with RJ-45 plugs.

 

There should be almost no scenarios where you are crimping RJ-45 ends on cables. You buy patch cords for things that need crimped ends.

 

RJ-45 plugs come in many varieties, some are for solid-core cable, some are for stranded. You often end up with the wrong ones, and "universal" plugs aren't.

 

Solid core cable is not meant to be continually flexed. It is meant to be terminated in a stable fashion, secured to supports, conduits, etc. Patch cables are stranded and meant for plugging and unplugging and moving connections around. You don't *make* patch cables, you *buy* them.

 

Granted, it is valuable to know how to properly crimp a cable in a pinch. But if you're doing this more than 4 times per year, *you are doing it wrong*.

 

 

Flame away...

[Campbell 0]

Here is my suggestion: don't do this (and I'm sure I'll get flak for this).

 

Backbone cable in a structured cable plant is *punched down*, not terminated with RJ-45 plugs.

 

There should be almost no scenarios where you are crimping RJ-45 ends on cables. You buy patch cords for things that need crimped ends.

 

Granted, it is valuable to know how to properly crimp a cable in a pinch. But if you're doing this more than 4 times per year, *you are doing it wrong*.

 

 

Flame away...

 

I have to be misunderstanding you. Or you're misunderstanding him... but I think you're very wrong here. How are you going to install an IP camera if you don't terminate with an RJ45 plug? How are you going to install cable into a location without a patch panel?

 

That said.

 

Why are you terminating in T568B? I know it won't make much difference when learning HOW but when you put into practice in the field, most (well 99% of sites I've been to are wired T568A). Also, when learning how to terminate, buy more than 10. Buy 100 or so. You'll need a lot.

 

Now you'll get more practised as you go, but I usually strip back about 4-5cm, untwist each pair, straighten as I go, so the first straighten is a single strand, the 2nd is 2 strands, and so on, line it up, cut it so that the insulation will still be inside the jack when I terminate, check all cables are pushed in and in order and then terminate. Bear in mind that different jacks can make a world of difference when terminating.

[NotoriousBRK 0]

I have to be misunderstanding you. Or you're misunderstanding him... but I think you're very wrong here. How are you going to install an IP camera if you don't terminate with an RJ45 plug? How are you going to install cable into a location without a patch panel?

 

You terminate the solid-core cable into a 1-port outlet. Generally inside of a 1-gang box, and then run a weatherproof cable from that to the camera, or mount to camera to the gang box.

 

 

 

That said.

 

Why are you terminating in T568B?

 

 

Because he is in the US (I think). T568B is by far the predominant wiring pattern in the US. T568A is International

[Nimrod 0]

“RJ-45 plugs come in many varieties, some are for solid-core cable, some are for stranded. You often end up with the wrong ones, and "universal" plugs aren't.

 

It can be difficult to get the proper rj45 for the wire you are using, many times the description does not give you enough information. I found i had to call and specifically ask or just buy packaged deals of 1000ft cat5E with a bag of rj45 and or a cat5e cable tester. A good crimper does not hurt either, all metal not a plastic POS. And whenever possible i also buy pre-made cables.

 

P.S. there are many video on youtube on how to crimp rj45 connectors

[Birdman Adam 0]

All I can say is it takes a bit of practice. A lot of the problem people have is in getting each of the 8 wires into their own little slots, in the right order. Once you've pushed them in, check the order!

 

-Making your own patch cables is much cheaper than buying them. No doubt about it.

 

-Make sure you use the right crimper for the right plug.

 

-Make sure you use solid-wire plugs with solid wire, etc.

 

-Always double check the wires after you slide 'em in.

[Numb-nuts 1]

All I can say is it takes a bit of practice. A lot of the problem people have is in getting each of the 8 wires into their own little slots, in the right order. Once you've pushed them in, check the order!

 

-Making your own patch cables is much cheaper than buying them. No doubt about it.

 

-Make sure you use the right crimper for the right plug.

 

-Make sure you use solid-wire plugs with solid wire, etc.

 

-Always double check the wires after you slide 'em in.

 

All the stuff about the colour coding, I wasn't aware there were various codes, I dragged these off the internet so I jusyt decided that was the colour convention I would stick with. In the end it shouldn't matter should it?

 

What you say about solid core and stranded cable makes sense to me as the stranded is better at taking sharp bends and being manipulated in tight spaces whereas solid core can fracture and break if not curved gently . I had no ide there was a pplug for each type, but that would make sense too.

 

My crimper is made for RJ45s specifically and is made of metal. I have a large set of crimpers, about eight in all, some are plier and some are ratchet.

 

I knew someone would suggest I buy more plugs and practice, and frankly I think that is the only way I will master RJ45s.

The precise reason I want to learn to crimp RJ45s is for long runs in IP cameras installation. It would be my intention to run a solid core

Cat5 cable close to the camera inside or out, to a junction box and join it with a female / female and run a pre=made stranded patch cable from there to the camera in a similar way to which we do with analogue cameras.

 

Oh boy your eyesight has to be good for these plugs. I will have to look what scrap s of Cat5 I have and then buy appropriate plugs.

This is going to be expensive

[Campbell 0]

 

Because he is in the US (I think). T568B is by far the predominant wiring pattern in the US. T568A is International

 

He's from the UK.

[thewireguys 3]

In the US T568B is for data and T568A phone. I can't tell you how many thousands of RJ-45's I have punched or crimped over the years but the one thing I have learned is cert EVERY run you do.

Edited June 11, 2011 by Guest

[Soundy 1]

I used to use keystone jacks and patch cables all the time... then I learned how to crimp the plugs properly and learned it was faster, easier (especially when on a ladder - just try using a punch tool with the jack braced against your hand), and actually, more reliable. It's also less hassle when working with dome housings, as you don't have find somewhere for the jack to fit, and it's a lot easier to feed the end of a Cat5 wire through a tight space if it doesn't have a molded jack attached to it.

 

And of course, as we saw in another thread, one of the "knocks" on IP installations (vs. HDcctv) is that "there are more points of possible failure with all those jacks and punchdowns and patch cables and stuff" - well, that's easy enough to avoid, isn't it?

 

We've traditionally used T568B as well... no particular reason, though. About the only exception is when we're using MuxLab VGA baluns, which I've found seem to work better with T568A wiring.

 

Maybe I'll put together a little video on how to do it properly sometime

 

Meantime, another option are the pass-through plugs, where you don't have to cut the wires to length - there are just holes right out the front end so you push the wires through, and the crimper has a blade that cuts them off.

[Campbell 0]

All the stuff about the colour coding, I wasn't aware there were various codes, I dragged these off the internet so I jusyt decided that was the colour convention I would stick with. In the end it shouldn't matter should it?

 

What you say about solid core and stranded cable makes sense to me as the stranded is better at taking sharp bends and being manipulated in tight spaces whereas solid core can fracture and break if not curved gently . I had no ide there was a pplug for each type, but that would make sense too.

 

My crimper is made for RJ45s specifically and is made of metal. I have a large set of crimpers, about eight in all, some are plier and some are ratchet.

 

I knew someone would suggest I buy more plugs and practice, and frankly I think that is the only way I will master RJ45s.

The precise reason I want to learn to crimp RJ45s is for long runs in IP cameras installation. It would be my intention to run a solid core

Cat5 cable close to the camera inside or out, to a junction box and join it with a female / female and run a pre=made stranded patch cable from there to the camera in a similar way to which we do with analogue cameras.

 

Oh boy your eyesight has to be good for these plugs. I will have to look what scrap s of Cat5 I have and then buy appropriate plugs.

This is going to be expensive

 

Manage your cable so you don't do sharp turns. As Matt says, its cheaper and easier to just terminate on the end of the cable rather than use a jack then a patch cable. It also looks nicer as well rather than having a jbox somewhere close to the camera to house the jack, just run everything to the back of the camera. I've been doing this for 10+ years and have never had an issue with my cabling (that was a result of me rather than say rats chewing through it or someone deciding that it would be a good idea to cut it)

 

Buying plugs should not be expensive if you source them right. Also if you're practising, just buy the cheapest plugs you can find, because you'll only bin them in the end. Once you know you're going to be using them, then buy more expensive plugs if need be. But whilst you're simply crimping and chopping and crimping and chopping, there's no sense in buying the 20p plugs when the 5p plugs will help you accomplish the same goal.

[Soundy 1]

[NotoriousBRK 0]

In the US T568B is for data and T568A phone. I can't tell you how many thousands of RJ-45's I have punched or crimped over the years but the one thing I have learned is cert EVERY run you do.

 

They're both universal, the benefit of a standards-based structured cabling plant is that you can use it for all kinds of devices. In fact, T568B came about by the "phone company".

 

When this stuff was all being ratified in the late 80's/early 90's time frame, the original wiring color code for 8C twisted pair cabling was just "T568", which is what we now call "T568A". However, by the time the whole thing was settled, AT&T (and this was back when AT&T had clout) had been doing what became known as "T568B" color-pattern punchdowns for several years, across hundreds of thousands of lines. They basically said "we can't be put in a position where a customer could think we did things in a non-standard way", so T568B was shortly introduced as an "alternate acceptable wiring pattern".

 

The US was ahead of the curve on these rollouts, with AT&T at the forefront, so this is why you see 568B primarily in North America, and T568A everywhere else.

[NotoriousBRK 0]

-Making your own patch cables is much cheaper than buying them. No doubt about it.

 

5ft patch cables are $3 in bulk purchase. How can you make one cheaper than that?

 

In bulk, stranded Cat5e cable is about 15 cents a foot (solid is much cheaper, but solid is never used for patch cords). An RJ-45 plug for stranded cable is about 4 cents, and a strain relief is about 2 cents.

 

So a 5ft. patch cable has about a 90 cent parts cost alone. Then there is the time to actually assemble the cable *and* test it. Which is 3 minutes at least. So, a really skilled person could make 20 an hour if you were lucky. Or, a $20/hour tech adds $1 to the cost. This is of course assuming that there are ZERO errors in any of these home-made cables (causing time and materials to be lost).

 

I don't see the justification there. And even if there *is* a slight cost savings, it's going to be one of those "penny-wise, pound-foolish" decisions in the long run.

[tomcctv 190]

I don't see the justification there. And even if there *is* a slight cost savings, it's going to be one of those "penny-wise, pound-foolish" decisions in the long run

 

 

 

 

in most cases you would already have the cable or like most keep good lenth from off cuts from installs. so apart from the ends it costs nothing.

[NotoriousBRK 0]

I don't see the justification there. And even if there *is* a slight cost savings, it's going to be one of those "penny-wise, pound-foolish" decisions in the long run

 

 

 

 

in most cases you would already have the cable or like most keep good lenth from off cuts from installs. so apart from the ends it costs nothing.

 

But patch cables should be made from stranded cable, and backbone cabling is done with solid-core. So, who has bunches of stranded cable laying around?

[mike_va 0]

Today I bought myself a pack of 10 x RJ45 plugs, I have had a crimper for a long time but never needed it.

Any tips?

I got some of those from the home depot and the trick was not stripping the wire.

 

Huge pain tho very hard to see, now I try to buy prefab there are a few places that sell Belden pretty cheap $3/50'

[tomcctv 190]

Today I bought myself a pack of 10 x RJ45 plugs, I have had a crimper for a long time but never needed it.

Any tips?

I got some of those from the home depot and the trick was not stripping the wire.

 

Huge pain tho very hard to see, now I try to buy prefab there are a few places that sell Belden pretty cheap $3/50'

 

 

 

 

at the end of the day he has the ends cable and crimps. does not matter about the cat5 stranded or not.

 

 

the only TIP is practice makes perfect.

[NotoriousBRK 0]

 

at the end of the day he has the ends cable and crimps. does not matter about the cat5 stranded or not.

 

 

 

It absolutely matters.

 

Even if all the materials were free, it still doesn't make sense to make your own patch cables. You never see any of the more professional organizations out there trying to DIY a patch cord. They know that in the long run, the time, materials, and peace of mind are not worth saving $2 on a patch cord.

[tomcctv 190]

The precise reason I want to learn to crimp RJ45s is for long runs in IP cameras installation. It would be my intention to run a solid core (

 

 

 

 

using stranded cable is not the right way for ip cameras. and also in some codes of practice in network installs you can only use 10m of standed cat5

 

the only reason for stranded cat5 (patch lead) is the pulling in and out of inlet of constant moving of what ever you plug it into.

[Numb-nuts 1]

Thats quite right, I do have lots of off-cuts, mostly solid core but some stranded, none more than a meter or two.

The plugs are relatively cheap, even the Tyco ones I believe so I will simply have to practice and practice.

 

I believe that mostly I will need to put plugs on solid core external grade (UV resistant Cat5 as this is what I use for long runs

of over 15-20 meters. Some of the practice pieces when I can get them right, will remain as patch leads as they are always useful

but I do have a supplier that sells patch leads so cheap it's hardly worth the effort.

 

I found out about making sharp changes in direction a LONG time ago when using RG58 coax on a car telephone (like I said, a long time ago) when the center core fractured making an intermittent connection. I also learned that poor quality copper coated steel wire was a complete waste of time. For car-phones and two way radio we always used stranded-center core RG58 and soldered the center pins of PL259s or TNCs.

 

By the way, here in the UK we have a unique telephone plug different to those used on telephones in the US and around the world.

 

The diagram above is the one all my pre-manufactured patch leads use so I just started to copy that.

 

Thanks for all your useful comments and tips, I best go and practice a little.

[Soundy 1]

Even if all the materials were free, it still doesn't make sense to make your own patch cables.

Sure it does, for one reason: you can make it exactly to the length you need. Standard lengths tend to be 3', 6', 10', 12' etc. If I need a cable 3'2", I either need to use a 6'... or just make my own to the right length.

 

That said, IF a patch cable is required, I do like to use pre-made... however, if I'm wiring a camera, I still prefer to go direct, rather than futz about with a keystone and a patch cable. I'm so practiced at crimping on RJ-45s now, keystone jacks are simply more time and effort... and expense. Wire direct to camera, the only cost is the RJ-45 plug.

[thewireguys 3]

In the US T568B is for data and T568A phone. I can't tell you how many thousands of RJ-45's I have punched or crimped over the years but the one thing I have learned is cert EVERY run you do.

 

They're both universal, the benefit of a standards-based structured cabling plant is that you can use it for all kinds of devices. In fact, T568B came about by the "phone company".

 

When this stuff was all being ratified in the late 80's/early 90's time frame, the original wiring color code for 8C twisted pair cabling was just "T568", which is what we now call "T568A". However, by the time the whole thing was settled, AT&T (and this was back when AT&T had clout) had been doing what became known as "T568B" color-pattern punchdowns for several years, across hundreds of thousands of lines. They basically said "we can't be put in a position where a customer could think we did things in a non-standard way", so T568B was shortly introduced as an "alternate acceptable wiring pattern".

 

The US was ahead of the curve on these rollouts, with AT&T at the forefront, so this is why you see 568B primarily in North America, and T568A everywhere else.

 

The way I was taught T568A was for Phones. Blue= line1 Organge = line2 Green = line 3 Brown = line 4

 

All D-MARKS in my area have been used this way from the phone company's

[Soundy 1]

The first major network install I did (several hundred Cat5e runs for a digital-arts school, totally some 30,000m of wire... before I got into CCTV), the IT guy just arbitrarily declared T568B... so that's how we did it, and that's how I've done it ever since, just because it's familiar now

[thewireguys 3]

The correct way to install Cat5/Cat6 to cameras is install a jack and run a patch cable. But this is a major PITA and I just terminate the cable, cert and plug direct in to the camera.