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How to hook up a CNB VCM-24VF camera to power??

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So upon pouring over these forums I decided get a CNB VCM-24VF dome camera. I was building a home security system for the first time, I wanted one dome and 4 bullets, I got the bullets up and running just fine. However the CNB VCM-24VF came with this 24v connector that you needed to hook up 8 by 2 gauge wire to, and attach to a 24v transformer.

 

I blew out 3 transformers and the camera. I performed an RMA and got a new camera in exchange. I am worried about wasting more money on transformers I know will blow and potentially the camera doing the same thing.

 

I must be doing something wrong and was looking to get some help on what to do to minimize me having to return yet another camera. The bullets dont require me cutting up wires, they are straight plug n play. But I am by no means an amateur when it comes to wiring. However, Im sure I am missing something.

 

I went into a local cctv shop the guy told me I was doing nothing wrong, but he wouldnt touch the camera as he said I was hooking it up fine. Any pointers?

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That camera will work with pretty much anything from 10V to 30V, AC or DC... there's no trick to connecting them, no polarity to worry about.

 

You're not really clear on the sequence of events... if three transformers blew after connecting them to the original camera, it's possible that camera was faulty to start with.

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I must be doing something wrong and was looking to get some help on what to do to minimize me having to return yet another camera. The bullets dont require me cutting up wires, they are straight plug n play.

 

 

 

Hi so is the CNB .... do you have the one with the green connector or red power jack ??

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The xxx-24xx models are dual-voltage and use the green connector... the 12V models with barrel plugs are xxx-20xx.

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Ive got the one with a green connector. It has a lil cap that comes off that looks like I might be able to plug something into. But the only way I was told to get power to this, is to hook up 8 by 2 gauge wire. It is true that the camera was faulty to begin with, but Im still worried that something may happen or I'm doing something wrong

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"8 by 2 gauge"??

 

There should be two connectors on the tails coming out the back of that camera: the BNC (video) output, and the power input. You can use any wire that will fit, and again, power it with 12VDC or 24VAC, or just about anything in between.

 

"18/2" wire (18 gauge, two conductor) is common for power connections, but you're hardly limited to that.

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Thanks for the quick replies. Is there anything that I can use that doesnt involve me cutting wires and threading them around screws, or using a spade?

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lol, excuse my local vernacular. But I meant to say: Is there a way I can go about this without using using screw terminals or spades with the said 18/2 wire?

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You don't have to wrap wires around anything - you just undo the screws on the green terminals a bit, bare a 1/4" or so off the end of the wire, push it into the connector, and tighten the screws down.

 

Sure, you could fit some kind of female barrel connector onto it, like your other cameras have, but then you'd have splice a male barrel onto the end of your run... or you could snip the green connector off and just hard-splice your power run to the camera. Simply using the included connector as intended is far easier, cleaner, and more reliable in the long run.

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Can I use something like this: and hook that up to a power adapter with a male end. I would hook the wire into the connector from the camera, and the other end of the wire into this, and the get a power adapter with a male end 85Q3j-2.png

 

Rather than using these screw terminals on this power block: wtgix-2.jpg

 

Thanks for all your help btw, I just want to make sure I dont fry another camera or transformer

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Can I use something like this: and hook that up to a power adapter with a male end. I would hook the wire into the connector from the camera, and the other end of the wire into this, and the get a power adapter with a male end

 

Rather than using these screw terminals on this power block:

 

 

I don't see what difference it would make. Having the 18/2 wire from the power pack's terminals to the supplied connector on the CNB is the same thing as your proposal just easier because there is one less step.

 

I have installed a bunch of the VCMs and VBMs using 18/2 directly from a power source (both wall plug and power supply box) and never had a problem.

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I would think so as well, I would have a working power block, and then as soon as I hooked it up to the camera, the block fried. The CNB rep told me maybe the camera was faulty and I did an RMA, I cant help but think I was doing something wrong, Id hate to have to RMA again, I might video tape the whole process just in case I have to RMA again.

 

After posting here, it seems that something probably was wrong with the camera. Thanks for your help, I'll post again once Ive taken the video

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If you can i would videotape yourself bench testing the camera.Have a surge protector powering your power box,come out the power box straight to the camera.If you feel safer doing it that way.You can post the video that way we can see everything before you hit the power switch.

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Can I use something like this: and hook that up to a power adapter with a male end. I would hook the wire into the connector from the camera, and the other end of the wire into this, and the get a power adapter with a male end 85Q3j-1.png

 

Rather than using these screw terminals on this power block: wtgix-1.jpg

You could do that, but it's a lot of extra screwing around, extra parts, and extra cost, and really doesn't gain you anything. You don't have to use a screw-terminal transformer; you COULD just snip the barrel plug off a regular transformer, strip the wires back, then splice them (crimps, solder, tape, whatever you use) to the 18/2 that then goes to the camera.

 

Thanks for all your help btw, I just want to make sure I dont fry another camera or transformer

It's pretty much impossible to wire these things wrong - as I say, they'll take just about anything from 10-30 volts, AC or DC, and the inputs aren't polarized so it doesn't matter which way around you hook the DC. I think everyone pretty much agrees, the camera you had was probably faulty out of the box, and that's what was frying transformers.

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