Need better cameras?

[koolmer 0]

I can't see any interference here, the images are quite small though. If I remember correctly, you already mentioned that the detection sensibility is as low as possible. Is there anything else that you can configure on the motion detection?

[harley1 0]

Me either! I do have the sensitivity set to the dvr's minimum. I could try adjusting the color settings of each camera but I am not very hopeful about that.

 

As an experiment the other day I set 1 camera's motion zone to about 1 square foot area on a portion of the driveway. I still got motion alerts. Weird.

[koolmer 0]

Me either! I do have the sensitivity set to the dvr's minimum. I could try adjusting the color settings of each camera but I am not very hopeful about that.

 

As an experiment the other day I set 1 camera's motion zone to about 1 square foot area on a portion of the driveway. I still got motion alerts. Weird.

 

Sounds like a DVR problem to me. What DVR do you use?

 

Edit: Do all cameras have the same problem?

[rory 0]

 

I have spent so much money replacing cameras over the years I cannot bring myself to buy another $300 camera only to have it die this summer.

 

Have you used any with White or Silver housings yet?

Just curious if that might help in your case.

[koolmer 0]

 

I have spent so much money replacing cameras over the years I cannot bring myself to buy another $300 camera only to have it die this summer.

 

Have you used any with White or Silver housings yet?

Just curious if that might help in your case.

 

He mentioned that they were under an eave. Do you think it would make a difference when there is no direct sunlight?

[rory 0]

He mentioned that they were under an eave. Do you think it would make a difference when there is no direct sunlight?

Probably not. I missed that part.

[Mavrik 0]

Try fooling with the contrast for less false trips.

Try a torroid core choke on the camera DC power in.

Night time bugs trips motion software.

If fans don't work, I would do a water drip with a timer.

[Fiona 0]

The question of the heat performance of a shrouded enclosure is subject to many variables: intensity of sunlight; angle of sun; aspect of sunlight against enclosure window; air temp; degree of shade from the shroud; dissipation of heat via external heat sinks; heat emitted from actual camera etc., etc. In an Arizona summer, I would expect the internal temperature of a good enclosure to be about 18 degrees Fahrenheit (about 10 degrees Celsius) higher inside the enclosure than outside. I have done some work on the problem of heat up to about 115 degrees Fahrenheit or 46 degrees Celsius.

 

With PTZ domes the internal dome temperatures are also consistently 18 degrees Fahrenheit (about 10 degrees Celsius) higher inside the dome than outside. As the angle of elevation of the sun decreases, as the sun moves off its zenith, the dome is struck by direct sunlight. The temperature then increases by up to another 9 degrees Fahrenheit or 5 degrees Celsius. Heat is one of the most destructive litmus tests for a PTZ dome. I recall reading an obscure Pelco document that used an exponential graph to emphasize the increased rate of failure of their PTZs in extreme heat. Something like a 50% decrease in lifespan for every extra 10 degrees in temp above 50 C when operated continuously at such high temperatures.

[Fiona 0]

The Extreme Heat Solution.

 

The aptly named Igloo Dome.

A refrigerated PTZ Dome Enclosure for temperatures up to 167 degrees Fahrenheit or 75 degrees Celsius.

Power consumption: < 450 watts

 

 

http://www.hellascams.gr/grc/products/housings/pdf/Videolarm_IglooDome.pdf

[Mavrik 0]

Interesting, spend $3500 on an Igloo Dome to save a $100 camera.

[Fiona 0]

The fact is that the Igloo Dome exists. We can infer from this fact that PTZ Domes are being installed in extremely hot locations. We know that the best PTZs on the market tank-out at about 140 degrees Fahrenheit or 60 degrees Celsius. Applications above this temperature will be problematic. Airports, mines, oil-fields, military installations or industrial plants such as foundries and kilns come to mind. For these Giants, $3500 is petty cash.

 

Attempts must have been made to make a non-refrigerated PTZ Dome that could take extreme heat. If such attempts had succeeded, the Igloo would have failed in the market.

 

I don’t think anyone would place a $100 unit inside an Igloo. Those who install PTZ Domes in very hot locations would know the brands that are most reliable.

 

There is a much bigger world out there of corporate and government installers who refuse to pass on their knowledge or experience on forums.

 

This Topic ought to be remamed: Heat Affecting Installed Cameras

[Mavrik 0]

Here I thought we were trying to solve harley1 issues.

[Fiona 0]

We are trying to define the limits of a problem with AN ECONOMY OF WORDS.

 

If a particular problem exists, such as Heat Affecting Cameras, we can predict that this problem will have wider implications. These wider implications mean that other folk in hot locations worldwide will read this information for a solution. We also know that many Manufacturers quietly read posts on this forum for mercantile reasons.

 

By looking closely at harley1's heat issues, we are disseminating information to the wider public.

 

By defining the limits a General Problem, we are allowing others to find a solution to their particular issue economically and efficiently.

 

This is not a chatroom.

[rory 0]

This is not a Shakespeare play either.

[Fiona 0]

What does that mean? Is that cynicism? Or shul we al mumbl and waffil aon al day an neva reely ansa a problim?

 

By the way, Adam12, (rory aka num-chuks) no wonder this continues to be a marginal forum.

 

The big players do not post any information here.

 

Problems that arise on major brands are barely touched on this forum.

 

Cummon rory, where is your next cynical reply?

Edited January 25, 2012 by Guest

[Soundy 1]

Many PTZ cameras have small fans inside of them. This should not create any interference.

I haven't considered PTZ cameras. I didn't know they had fans in them. They must have a ground loop isolator to prevent low level emf interference.

1. A camera should not be getting interference from an internal fan; if it is, it's a VERY poor overall design.

2. A ground loop isolator does not address EMI; it addresses ground loops.

[rory 0]

Problems that arise on major brands are barely touched on this forum.

I will accept the fact that you are a newbie, and that would explain the above claim.

I alone have tens of thousands of posts regarding big brands.

Search is your friend, Amy69.

[Soundy 1]

Problems that arise on major brands are barely touched on this forum.

Wow, again I'm agreeing with Rory - you obviously haven't been reading around here much. (viewtopic.php?f=19&t=22353 anyone?)

 

Or maybe it's the simple fact that "major brands" don't HAVE nearly as many problems as the cheap no-name offshore junk, and that's part of WHY they're "major brands"?

[Fiona 0]

--

Edited January 25, 2012 by Guest

[Fiona 0]

I looked into the problem of heat affecting PTZs TWO YEARS AGO and barely got a reply.

Then I found that Pelco (A BIG BRAND) had quietly identified significant issues with its PTZ at high temperatures. I wish I had posted that document which revealed Pelco's grave concerns about PTZs installed in locations above 120 degrees Fahrenheit. No such discussion had ever occured on this forum.

 

Rory, you nit-pick with your rebuttals - always trying to find scope for another sledging. I have researched a number of specific expensive brand name components on this site and have come up empty handed. Part of the problem may be the search solution; the other part may be that the items, components or problems are not mentioned on this site.

 

I hope you are paying Soundy, Tom and the other main Installers for their contributions. They are the guys who form the backbone of this website.

 

Soundy, I had this argument with you over a year ago about generic components inside brand name cameras. Your long Arecont topic seems to support the claims that I made back then. I have come across many examples of big companies simply sticking their numbers on another generic part. I don't even know aht the argument is with this. Maybe it's to do with your definition of 'generic'.

Edited January 25, 2012 by Guest

[rory 0]

I hope you are paying Soundy, Tom and the other main Installers for their contributions. They are the guys who form the backbone of this website.

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[Fiona 0]

Here is another quote for you:

 

I hope Soundy and Tom and the other Installers who focus on the issues and not on attacks and condescension do not leave this site for another forum which PAYS THEM.

[rory 0]

Here is another quote for you:

 

I hope Soundy and Tom and the other Installers who focus on the issues and not on attacks and condescension do not leave this site for another forum which PAYS THEM.

[Fiona 0]

And another:

 

Mordachia, I mean rory, your contempt for females is one thing, but contempt for the idea of viable competition is another.

 

Can anyone direct me to an alternative CCTV ***** please. There was one in the UK, but I lost the site address and have been unable to find it.

[shockwave199 0]

Me either! I do have the sensitivity set to the dvr's minimum. I could try adjusting the color settings of each camera but I am not very hopeful about that.

 

As an experiment the other day I set 1 camera's motion zone to about 1 square foot area on a portion of the driveway. I still got motion alerts. Weird.

Could be something screwy with the dvr's motion detection. You should not, no matter what, have to keep the sensitivty at absolute minimum. As a last resort, I would try two more things. Mask the road in all places in your FOV. It's nice to have an eye on the road, I know. But that'll keep motion tripping for a host of reasons beyond just passing cars all day and night. Also if you haven't, sit and watch what's going on in each camera for a while. At the dvr's monitor, watch what's happening on screen each time there is detection. If a reason for most detections doesn't become clear, there's something more wrong going on. I know that email alerts is important to some people, but with outdoor cameras it's not really a good idea, imo. I have my sensitivity settings really fine tuned for each of my eight cameras, as well as really detailed blocking- and my blocking is WAY more tricky than the pics you posted. I still get a decent amount of motion triggers even on still nights. It's the outdoors. I wouldn't want all that email, that's for sure. Good luck.