fixing cameras to corrugated sheet building?

[crow 0]

hi

any sugestions on how to fix cameras to corrugated sheeting

where the cameras are going there is a 12mm thick steel girder

my plan was to put 2 tek screws through the camera bracket into the steel girder (see picture below)

only problem is the camera bracket holes are not big enough (4mm hole)

i dont want to drill out the bracket for warrenty reasons

the other idea was to put a block of wood inside and use wood screws through the bracket into the wood

 

any other ideas?

thanks

[PaulsonLaw 0]

Are you just running bullet cams and 1 dome still? Those bullets just get some self taps & put them to the metal with some caulking...

 

Are you using security cam boxes?

[Fiona 0]

If it is a full sized enclosure if may not be possible to support it by drilling into the sheet steel. Drilling all the way through into 12mm steel would then be necessary. Roofing comes in various BMT sizes from about .28 up to .60 so the heavier the better for an enclosure. Span distances between purlin or batten centres may also be relevant. Otherwise, if it is just a fixed dome, I'd definitely self-tap straight into the sheeting. There shouldn't be any problem with that whatsover.

[crow 0]

just got some m4 tek screws with philips head on them

ill have to go through the sheeting into some wood

there is 12mm steel on one side at the top but 2 or 3mm on the rest of the other sides

so should be ok

they are only small domes

thanks

[tomcctv 190]

i would mount wood or plastic first then fix the camera to that,

[Fiona 0]

Provided that the BMT is not below .28, the use of a timber substrate behind the sheet steel or between the sheet steel and the base plate is unnecessary.

[Numb-nuts 1]

In this case if the domes are about 3kg and not the ususal 7Kg you could try using Rivnuts. You don't neet a fancy tool to close them. Lets say you got some M6 rivnuts then you need an M6 x 75 mm set screw and M6 (not self locking).

You then need a socket wrench that fits the set screw and a spanner, open or ring that fit a the nut.

Drill the hole, for M6 it's usually about 9mm but check, then insert the rivnut and screw the nut onto the set screw about half way up the thread then screw the set screw into the rivnut and holding the setscrew still star to bring the nut down against the rivnut. It will tighten until the rivnut colapses onto the aluminium sheet. When it's set back the nut off and remove the set screw VOiLA one threades sheet of cladding. Make sure you get the holes absolutely lined up or you will have trouble Don't forget to use washers when you fix to the rivnut with your bracket.

 

I've seen this tool on ebay for about £15. The only other ones start around £30 and do M8 through M10. Rivnuts or nutserts their other name are available in smaller quantities until you decide what ones you like to use then you can buy a years supply and forget about it like I do with small components.

Of course you can supplement the strength of your install by drilling only once into a steel beam but I would avoid doing that (or increase your public liability insurance)

 

I just noticed you want to keep the existing 4mm holes, so obviously the size to get are M4s which makes me think the camera is definitely quite light

 

 

 

PS you may have to pop river a piece of metal to span the corrugations if you can't get it to fit on one raised area

[Numb-nuts 1]

I have just tried the nut and bolt method of inserting and setting rivnuts. I'm sorry but Its not very effective, and damned awkward to accomplish when up a ladder. My advice would be to get a rivnut setting tool even a cheap one might be better than wasting time and effort using just a nut and bolt. The theory is very good but in practice the method is very disappointing.

[rory 0]

toggle bolts?

optionally with piece of 2x4 on the inside?

[Numb-nuts 1]

I found this tool £22 incl on ebay, looks like a home made job but see what you think.

I don't use rivnuts so often as to warrant an expensive setting-tool but this

looks like it will do the job well especially up a ladder, using a cordless drill

to drive the nut at the end

 

 

UPDATE: I tried this tool today and I used a cordless drill with a 1/4' adaptor to drive it with a 7/16 (11mm) socket.

It works fine and it doesn't allow you to over-tighten the rivnut. If you use a cordless drill, remember to undo the tool BEFORE you remove it. If you try to undo it in your hand you could end up ripping your hand to shreds like I did.

Another tip I discovered when using aluminium (aluminum) is instead of using a 9mm drill bit for

M6 I bought a drill bit slightly smaller (8.9) and hammered the rivnut in.

[chris0langham 0]

I'm sure the cameras are secure using any of these methods, but my problem is the wind, causing vibration in the larger sheets. It's annoying when you are trying to review video and the camera is constantly wiggling. It also causes the motion recording to stay engaged, which makes it difficult to identify true activity. Has anyone dealt with this?

[Numb-nuts 1]

Most of us stiffen the cladding with aluminium (aluminum) or steel plate riveted or rivnutted to the cladding.

In one instance I used sheer bolt because the client advised me he had suffered theft of outside cameras in the past.

Coupple weeks ago I saw the footage of the thieved removing the cameras with a cordless angle-grinder.

 

IF the wind is THAT STRONG even fixing to a masonry wall you will suffer some vibration.

 

Waiting 4 years before reopening an old thread is a little wierd