110v vs 240v

[pcuser 0]

It seems that the panansonic ptzs I collected are wv-cs850..which incredibly uses 240 volts to operate. I can only imagine that these came from some European firm who happened to set up shop in the US and either upgraded and tossed these out to auction or went out of business. I am miffed as to how this voltage works in our residential power arrangements and what kind of wattage/amperage I should be looking at before I spend money on something I may not need if these things end up being trash.

[Soundy 1]

If you look inside of those things, there's probably either switches or jumpers to configure it for 120V use, or there may be a diagram showing how to re-wire the transformer for 120V supply.

 

If you follow down the chain, you'll probably find the power is simply stepped down to 24VAC internally and you can just bypass the transformer and power them off a standard CCTV power supply.

 

If that sounds like too much work, feel free to send them to me for proper disposal... or even just send me one and I'll figure out for you if it can be done

[pcuser 0]

In case there is anyone who truly wants to assist in the challenge to remedy the obstacle please look at the schematics and pics

 

hopefully the images load

[Soundy 1]

Can you link a larger version of that schematic? I can't quite make out the labels on my 24" monitor

 

Edit: from what I can make out there, the board is outputting 12VDC and 5VDC to the communication board, with a separate output to the fan (probably 12V as well). The "UP" pin looks to be a "power on/off" signal from the controller to turn the power supply on or off. If you could supply the communication board connector with 12VDC and 5VDC, you could probably eliminate the power board altogether.

 

If you were REALLY ambitious, you could replace the transformer with a proper one for 120V operation, although that would also require replacing a few other parts on the "hot" side of the transformer... a better option might just be a "travel adapter" designed to use European appliances in North America (just make sure you get one that can provide enough current).

[Soundy 1]

BTW, the offer was serious - I'll take one in exchange for figuring it out for you (hey SEANHAWG, you ever get any more? Remember the other thread? viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18998)

[pcuser 0]

I have soldered 12vdc leads to the out port from the power board to the com board and also managed to rig a usb lead to take advantage of the 5vdc lead to finish off the port wires. IT FRICKIN worked...cam went into set up mode and transitioned. I am now going to attempt to track down the correct rs 485 leads and the correct video as the ones I thought were the ones I need simply are not...at least at this time. The difficulty lays in the fact that the schematic shows 15 leads out of CN1 and 14 out of CN2 but there are only 13 out of CN1 and 12 out of CN2....

 

The other issue is going to be insurmaountable no matter what I may be able to accomplish and that is that I believe the video out may be PAL and lacking the option for NTSC..if there are any suggestions as to this debacle I am all ears.

 

I have really never experienced a wiring schematic or anything of a technical electrical issue since high school and back then 8 tracks were just coming out for homes and cars......so this is indeed a quick learning pace for me at my age.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions though.

[pcuser 0]

pdf of power board

 

ooops no pdfs allowed

Edited March 4, 2012 by Guest

[Soundy 1]

Hmmm... cheap PAL DVR off eBay, something with HDMI out so NTSC/PAL doesn't matter?

[pcuser 0]

Makes sense if I can get the three I have to work but kind of defeats the "ease" of smart phone access to all cams on one ptz link..might have to look into that I guess in the end

[Soundy 1]

So make sure the DVR itself has smartphone PTZ support The smartphone doesn't care whether it's PAL or not.