Best equipment for residential perimeter system

[dbooksta 0]

I'm residing my house, so taking advantage of having all the walls open to pull new cable for 10 exterior and 3 interior cameras. In order to "future-proof" myself I'm planning to pull a bundle of RG6, 18/2, and Cat6 to each camera location.

 

Locations and numbers of cameras are based on the assumption that most will have a 55-degree field of view.

 

Now with the cable in place what equipment should I be looking at? I want a "plug-and-play" DVR with seamless remote viewing and control from computers and smartphones that can do at least 7fps D1 on 16 cameras. And I want hardwired weatherproof cameras that give crisp day and night images -- enough to give police a good shot at catching trespassers and vandals.

 

Not knowing any better I was going to just buy a 16-channel Q-See or Swann package from a wholesale club. But I have the budget for more if there's a better way to go.

[Soundy 1]

A few 16-channel options, depending on what you want to spend:

http://www.dahuasecurity.com/English/product_info.aspx?type=339&&css=0&&id=8

http://www.dahuasecurity.com/English/product_info.aspx?type=349&&css=1&&id=34

http://www.3xlogic.com/prod/599/pro-series-hybrid-video-recorder

 

The Vigil is a nice option (albeit a good bit pricier) because they're a fully hybrid system, meaning if you want to start upgrading to IP cameras in the future, you just have to plug them in and configure them in the DVR. The Dahua DVRs are outstanding standalone units, but not hybrid.

 

Camera - easy: CNB VCM-24VF

 

2.8-10.5mm lens gives you a lot of range in adjusting your FOV (2.8mm will give you around 82 degrees). They're flush and surface mountable so they can be kept relatively low-profile. IP66-rated, so well suited for outdoor use (even in direct weather). And you'll have a hard time finding anything even close to the price range that works as well in low light.

 

Also suggest, for a really clean install: http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev16p-vps.htm for a combined balun/power supply unit, then http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev01p-vp-t.htm on the camera end - terminate your Cat6 (overkill, BTW - Cat5e is more than sufficient) with RJ45s and just plug'em in. Then if you want to upgrade to an IP cam in any location, you simply unplug the balun and plug in the new camera, the move the other end from the VPS to a PoE switch.

 

I wouldn't even bother with the coax and 18/2.

[dbooksta 0]

Soundy, thanks -- that is a very elegant solution!

 

Questions on that camera:

1. Do you recommend the IR variant of that camera? Of if I want dark coverage is a different camera, or an external IR illuminator, better?

2. The CNB camera manual says not to use unshielded twisted pair wire for power. Does the balun make that irrelevant? Or is Cat5e/6 considered "shielded"?

[Soundy 1]

Soundy, thanks -- that is a very elegant solution!

 

Questions on that camera:

1. Do you recommend the IR variant of that camera? Of if I want dark coverage is a different camera, or an external IR illuminator, better?

These cameras work very well with very little ambient light, so IR is probably not necessary in most cases. See some examples here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=25383&start=59

 

If you do need extra lighting, my preference would be motion-activated white light - not only does it give you a nice full-color image, but if someone is prowling around in the dark, a bright light snapping on will almost always get the reaction of looking toward the source of the light, and if that's fairly near the camera, well...

 

2. The CNB camera manual says not to use unshielded twisted pair wire for power. Does the balun make that irrelevant? Or is Cat5e/6 considered "shielded"?

Yeah, not sure what they're talking about there... UTP isn't "shielded" unless specifically stated. The objection is probably more due to the fact that a SINGLE pair for power may not carry sufficient current for higher-powered cameras like those with IR... but the baluns I listed specifically use one pair for video and the other three for power, which three 24-gauge wires is pretty much equivalent to one 18-gauge wire. The balun doesn't do anything special, it just connects three pins on the RJ-45 jack to a single pin on the power connector.

[dbooksta 0]

Thanks again -- you are awesome!

[shockwave199 0]

Locations and numbers of cameras are based on the assumption that most will have a 55-degree field of view

I wouldn't assume anything when it comes to placement. In fact, if it were me I'd get the cameras up in a temporary fashion just to confirm that each one will give you the best view- before I ran any permanent wires. The fact that you're running all this permanently before siding is good. But you want to be sure that your placement is correct, taking into account any obsticles or exterior lighting that may make a chosen spot less than good. Beyond the cameras suggested here, put a LOT of time into where they will be installed because once the wires are all run and installed and siding is put in place, it's over. Before running permanent wires and all, get your cctv gear and gaffer tape up the cameras with temp wires run- anything to make sure those placements are correct before you lock yourself in. Good luck.

 

Dan

[groovyman 0]

Locations and numbers of cameras are based on the assumption that most will have a 55-degree field of view

I wouldn't assume anything when it comes to placement. In fact, if it were me I'd get the cameras up in a temporary fashion just to confirm that each one will give you the best view- before I ran any permanent wires. The fact that you're running all this permanently before siding is good. But you want to be sure that your placement is correct, taking into account any obsticles or exterior lighting that may make a chosen spot less than good. Beyond the cameras suggested here, put a LOT of time into where they will be installed because once the wires are all run and installed and siding is put in place, it's over. Before running permanent wires and all, get your cctv gear and gaffer tape up the cameras with temp wires run- anything to make sure those placements are correct before you lock yourself in. Good luck.

 

Dan

I second the motion. Couple of months ago I installed a surveillance system in a new restaurant that was almost complete. The owner decided to put in some ceiling fans which blocked one camera, then some additional light fixtures which hang down from the ceiling which blocked another camera, then some additional shelving in the back which blocked yet one more camera.

 

Additionally, the storefront faces directly west. I thought the windows would be tinted and a rug put by the entrance (as I was told), but that never got done. At a certain time of day the sun hits the tile floor and the glare is picked up by the camera pointed on the entrance. You can't really see the glare when sitting or walking around the restaurant, but get on a ladder where the camera is mounted and look down - the reflection is really bad for about 2 hours.

 

So, I had to go back each time and move cameras around. Not much of a big deal as the cameras are mounted to drop ceiling tile (just moved tiles around), but I would have liked to install the cameras after everything else was done and not have to make a couple more trips.

 

I know most of your cameras will be exterior, so be mindful of where the sun is and what it will be reflecting off of. And keep in mind it will change throughout the year. I thought I did a great job in a location over the winter, but now the sun enters differently and a couple of camera placements aren't so good.

[Soundy 1]

^Two words: service loop. Make sure you leave plenty of extra wire coiled at the end of your run, so you have plenty to allow you to move/adjust positions. If there's no room behind the camera, leave a coil in the first available location "upstream", so you can pull more out if you need.

 

I second the motion. Couple of months ago I installed a surveillance system in a new restaurant that was almost complete. The owner decided to put in some ceiling fans which blocked one camera, then some additional light fixtures which hang down from the ceiling which blocked another camera, then some additional shelving in the back which blocked yet one more camera.

Wow, we run into this all the time - stuff getting moved and added and removed and changed constantly in the course of construction of some large restaurants we install for. But really, the only thing you can really do about it make sure there's something in the contract that lets you bill for extras when that happens and someone else's idea/mistake/brainstorm causes you extra work.

 

The worst was a couple sites ago when they decided that all the IT and CCTV head-end stuff wasn't going to go in the staff area, as originally planned, but into a special server room being built off the loading dock... of course, they decided this two days after we finished pulling all our runs to the original location... as usual, we left about 15-20 feet of extra cable... and of course, we needed about 60 feet more to get to the new location. Doing all the extensions, fishing them up through the ceiling of the ceiling of the mechanical room and tying everything in... then disconnecting all the splices, pulling the original runs back out the hole they told use to use, to re-run them through a new hole, and re-splice them... the whole thing added over a week. Two guys, full time, 6 extra work days, because things kept changing on the fly.

[dbooksta 0]

If you do need extra lighting, my preference would be motion-activated white light - not only does it give you a nice full-color image, but if someone is prowling around in the dark, a bright light snapping on will almost always get the reaction of looking toward the source of the light, and if that's fairly near the camera, well...

 

I was going to pull 14-gauge 120V for a bunch of motion-activated lights as well. Are there any good alternatives in that space to the Heath/Zenith line offered at big box stores?

 

(I was hoping I could find something that would allow central control -- e.g., zoning and ability to turn zones of outside lights on or off independent of the motion relays ... without running 4-way switches all over the house. But from what I've read about home-automation gear, like Insteon, the motion sensors suck.)

[shockwave199 0]

As far as the light itself, be sure to install a dual bright motion light with creepzone.

 

'CreepZone is a patented technology that eliminates dead zones in motion detection areas. Standard motion security lights operate with detection zones away from the light but cannot detect motion directly beneath the light. This security light detects motion directly beneath the light in addition to the left, right, and front zones. Pulse-Count technology reads heat and movement in pulses as opposed to single occurrences to prevent false triggering'.

 

If it wasn't such a total PIA, I'd have swapped mine out for these by now. Maybe THIS year I will.

 

http://www.smarthome.com/36727WH/Heath-Zenith-SL-5105-WH-Dual-Brite-Motion-Activated-Security-Light-White/p.aspx

[dbooksta 0]

While we're at it: Are there any good discreet or concealed cameras with IR illumination I could mount indoors to watch the entrances?

[dbooksta 0]

The Vigil is a nice option (albeit a good bit pricier) because they're a fully hybrid system, meaning if you want to start upgrading to IP cameras in the future, you just have to plug them in and configure them in the DVR. The Dahua DVRs are outstanding standalone units, but not hybrid.

 

You weren't kidding on price: I just got a quote of $5000 for a 3XLogic DVR!

[groovyman 0]

I second the motion. Couple of months ago I installed a surveillance system in a new restaurant that was almost complete. The owner decided to put in some ceiling fans which blocked one camera, then some additional light fixtures which hang down from the ceiling which blocked another camera, then some additional shelving in the back which blocked yet one more camera.

Wow, we run into this all the time - stuff getting moved and added and removed and changed constantly in the course of construction of some large restaurants we install for. But really, the only thing you can really do about it make sure there's something in the contract that lets you bill for extras when that happens and someone else's idea/mistake/brainstorm causes you extra work.

Well, it happened again. Had a camera installation last week for a new business and I was very specific with the owner to schedule the camera install after everything else was completed, including any shelving, signage and decoration. We ran cable weeks ago when the walls & ceiling were open and it was a pleasure to install the cameras. Everything went very smooth, until today when I received a call from the owner that 3 cameras need to be moved because they hung some signs and plants. I think he was expecting it to be free.....nope. I just logged on and saw the signs and plants were moved. Yep, that was a lot cheaper

[shockwave199 0]

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That's great!