tommyxv 0 Posted May 20, 2012 That's sounds good. I like your thinking. I will probably have to install another light for that as my garage lights are on a 3 way switch. I have a sub-panel in the garage so wiring it will be simple. So I am going to get 4 of those cameras now. LOL I started with just two as first. I saw online three 4 ch DVRs, Do you think the higher end one is over kill for me? I really do not understand the 7FPS vs 30FPS, other than the lower FPS may be choppy?? Also, I already have 1000' ft reel of RG-6 Quad Shield left over from my days as a cable installer. Could I use that for the video runs and just get coax to BNC adapters?? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 20, 2012 Also: http://www.panasonic.com/business/security/demos/PSS-recording-rates.html Lower framerates do start to be "choppier"... they also take a lot less space. 7fps will take about 1/4 the storage space of 30fps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 20, 2012 For an extra $100, I think i will get the 30FPS one. I have a spare 2 TB hard drive. It's only 5200RPM though. It is hard to install your own hard drives? I think that model can hold 2 hard drives. How much record time do you think 2 TB will get with 4 cameras, 2 of them recording 24/7, and the other two motion activated? Can I use that RG-6 quad shield that I have for the video cable runs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 20, 2012 I have a spare 2 TB hard drive. It's only 5200RPM though. It is hard to install your own hard drives? I think that model can hold 2 hard drives. How much record time do you think 2 TB will get with 4 cameras, 2 of them recording 24/7, and the other two motion activated? You should get a few months on that, especially if you keep the framerates down. I'll have to double-check, but I think you can configure it to record constantly at a lower framerate, and kick up to a higher rate when motion is detected. Can I use that RG-6 quad shield that I have for the video cable runs? If it's solid copper core and 95% or better copper braided shield, sure. If it's foil shield or copper-clad center core, I'd avoid using it if possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 20, 2012 It's quad shield, foil, braid, foil, braid, none of it is copper. I'm sure the center conductor is a copper clad. I guess I can pick up a spool of Siamese video/power cable then. How long can the runs be? I am going to run everything neatly in the attic and then down a chase to the finished basement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 20, 2012 Personally, I prefer to use Cat5e with baluns - it's cheaper than Siamese, far easier to work with, and more versatile, as it allows for easy upgrade to IP cameras in the future. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 20, 2012 Personally, I prefer to use Cat5e with baluns - it's cheaper than Siamese, far easier to work with, and more versatile, as it allows for easy upgrade to IP cameras in the future. I Google it and watched this video, so I understand what that is... That makes sense. How is video quality and are there any problem running power on that gauge of wire though? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 21, 2012 You actually potentially get better noise rejection, as the twisted pair is designed to reject outside interference, and the baluns form a balanced line, which further serves to reject interference. Passive baluns allow video distances up to 800-1000m, further with active baluns; video over RG-59 is generally only good to about 300m before you start getting signal degradation. Not that you're going to be anywhere near that... Power also isn't a problem, especially since the 24VFs have very low power consumption (2.2W, or 180mA max at 12VDC; far less at 24VAC). I've successfully run two 24VFs over a single Cat5e run at around 200' - one pair each for video, one pair each for power. Of course, it's safer to use two or three pairs for power, but these cameras don't need it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 21, 2012 Can you explain the power connection at the camera and back at the DVR where my power strip will be? Do I need the pig tails connectors? Also, is getting cat 6 better? Heavier gauge wire? I am trying to purchase everything I need for running 4 camera. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 21, 2012 Can you explain the power connection at the camera and back at the DVR where my power strip will be? Do I need the pig tails connectors? You can get baluns that have RJ45 jacks and split out to BNC and pigtails... but I just do it like this: Also, is getting cat 6 better? Heavier gauge wire? Heavier by a whisker 23 AWG vs 24), but not necessary. Considering these cameras can be happily powered at 12V over a single 24AWG pair, which is pretty much the lowest you can go... yeah, not needed. Certainly not worth the added expense. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 21, 2012 So I guess my last question is what baluns do you recommend and where. Thanks for all your help with this camera project. I really appreciate it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 21, 2012 Well if you want to keep things REALLY clean, this is what I've been using on the last couple big jobs (28-32 cameras): http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev16p-vps.htm - combined PSU and balun unit (four- and eight-channel models available as well). http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev01p-vp-t.htm on the camera end - just snip the barrel off and tie the wires into the camera's screw terminals. The only other thing you need there are short BNC jumper cables to connect the VPS to the DVR: http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/cc6200.htm Just terminate your Cat5e runs with RJ-45s (be sure to maintain proper T-568A/B wiring) and plug'em in. Note: these guys are wholesalers; you'll need to contact them about a local dealer. That aside... the other baluns we mostly use (as seen in the photos) are these: http://bit.ly/jzxBih - they fit nicely inside the VCM back-box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 21, 2012 You have a pic of the tails from the camera without anything connected? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 21, 2012 You have a pic of the tails from the camera without anything connected? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 21, 2012 Thanks....I will be placing my order either tonight or tomorrow. I am still deciding on the cat5 or siamese cable. I really have no plans for upgrading to IP cams, but I like the clean wiring of just the Cat5. It's a coin flip. Thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 21, 2012 I placed my order this morning. I went with the 8CH DVR for $100 more in case I want to add more cams later. I'll be adding my own 2TB HD to it. I also went with the Siamese cable over the Cat5e and baluns. Dahua 8 Channel Security DVR 4 x CNB VCM-24VF Dome Cameras 500' Spool RG59 Siamese Cable Thanks everyone for all the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyxv 0 Posted May 23, 2012 When using Cat5e UTP cable, should you get solid or stranded wire? This wire will be going in my attic, how does CAT5 handle heat? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted May 23, 2012 I find that not only is solid easier and cheaper to find in bulk, most of the connectors (both RJ45 plugs, and keystone jacks) that are readily available are for solid core as well. Only place I've seen termination for stranded UTP is at wholesalers. Some guys will be pointing out that stranded is more resilient under constant flexing... seems to me if your camera's termination is seeing constant flexing, it's probably due to outside intervention, and you have bigger issues than how long it will be before the wire breaks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guardcompany 0 Posted June 15, 2012 Can you explain the power connection at the camera and back at the DVR where my power strip will be? Do I need the pig tails connectors? You can get baluns that have RJ45 jacks and split out to BNC and pigtails... but I just do it like this: Also, is getting cat 6 better? Heavier gauge wire? Heavier by a whisker 23 AWG vs 24), but not necessary. Considering these cameras can be happily powered at 12V over a single 24AWG pair, which is pretty much the lowest you can go... yeah, not needed. Certainly not worth the added expense. Sorry for the noob questions, but after looking at your photos why not just use this: http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev01p-vp-t.htm Only reason I ask is because I'm going the balun route too and just doing research. EDIT: I should mention I plan on using a EV08P-VPS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Numb-nuts 1 Posted June 15, 2012 Try not to rely on lighting over which you have no control, chances are it''ll not be on at a critical time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted June 15, 2012 Can you explain the power connection at the camera and back at the DVR where my power strip will be? Do I need the pig tails connectors? You can get baluns that have RJ45 jacks and split out to BNC and pigtails... but I just do it like this: Also, is getting cat 6 better? Heavier gauge wire? Heavier by a whisker 23 AWG vs 24), but not necessary. Considering these cameras can be happily powered at 12V over a single 24AWG pair, which is pretty much the lowest you can go... yeah, not needed. Certainly not worth the added expense. Sorry for the noob questions, but after looking at your photos why not just use this: http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev01p-vp-t.htm Only reason I ask is because I'm going the balun route too and just doing research. EDIT: I should mention I plan on using a EV08P-VPS I've used those as well, with the EV16P-VPS... main reason is that the EV01P-VP-T won't fit inside the VCM's back-box. They work great if you're flush-mounting the camera or have an electrical gang-box behind it, but when surface mounting, I use the GEM mini-baluns pictured - they fit inside nice and snug and help keep the wiring in place Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guardcompany 0 Posted June 15, 2012 I've used those as well, with the EV16P-VPS... main reason is that the EV01P-VP-T won't fit inside the VCM's back-box. They work great if you're flush-mounting the camera or have an electrical gang-box behind it, but when surface mounting, I use the GEM mini-baluns pictured - they fit inside nice and snug and help keep the wiring in place Ah okay that makes sense. I am doing a gangbox behind all my cameras, so I'm going the EV01P-VP route. That just plugs straight into my CAT6 line right? No wiring required? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Epik 0 Posted June 16, 2012 I've used those as well, with the EV16P-VPS... main reason is that the EV01P-VP-T won't fit inside the VCM's back-box. They work great if you're flush-mounting the camera or have an electrical gang-box behind it, but when surface mounting, I use the GEM mini-baluns pictured - they fit inside nice and snug and help keep the wiring in place (New to this bear with me) If you mount the camera at a place where it goes straight into the attic behind, even surface mounting, wouldn't the connections from the camera be long enough to have the EV01P-VP-T secured nearby in the attic? Is a gang-box really needed? I am getting a grasp on home security and the installation and was planning on using those but I didn't plan on having a gang-box just have the cords go into the attic and then cat5e it from there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites