Drop Ceiling Camera Mounting

[Liquid_Squelch 0]

I have a basic question for those who have installed cameras in a drop ceiling environment.

 

When you mount the cameras, did you just screw them into the ceiling tiles. If so, did you use the platic 'mollies' that came with the camera? OR - did you screw into the metal cross framing that the ceiling panels fit into?

 

This is a brand new ceiling so the fibers are still fresh. I'm just worried in a few years that the cameras might start coming loose.

 

What is the common practice with this type of install? (The cameras will be dome style cameras without the covers, not PTZ or anything with much weight)

[jxk716 0]

A square piece of plywood on top of the tile with a hole for the wires will probably be the easiest. It will help distribute the weight of the camera. Toggle bolts will also do but the wood is more secure.

[Liquid_Squelch 0]

That seems like an overkill.

 

I forgot to add that according to the specsheet, the camera only weighs 400g.

[shockwave199 0]

If needed, I would replace the screws with longer ones fitted with a wing nut so you can screw it snug to the opposite side of the ceiling.

[tomcctv 190]

That seems like an overkill.

 

I forgot to add that according to the specsheet, the camera only weighs 400g.

 

 

 

 

 

hi. it might seem overkill. but you have to take into account cleaning or servicing the camera over time.

 

 

other way is off cut plastic conduit cut to tile size with long drywall screws

[Numb-nuts 1]

For some tiles I cut a piece of 9 00 *3y the exact size of my tile, then I usually reduce the tile thickness by half to ensure the ply id within the metal frame when seated.

I spray carpet glue onto the ply and apply the back of the tile before screwing the camera to the ply through the tile.

 

If the camera is very light, you could reduce the ply's width to just slightly wider than the camera base and long enough to span the metal frame behind the tile. A handy tool for getting those ssft tiles properly seated is a large paperclip bent into an "L" shape.

 

Is it overkill, probably but better that than a camera falling off the ceiling.

 

When you start ceiling mountingt Monitor brackets through a drop ceiling you'll realise that the ply helps to keep the tile in shape when cutting a hole for the ceiling mount bracket through a tile. They stay in one piece because the ply will hold the tile together.

 

YOU CAN'T ALWAYS CHOOSE WHERE THE DROP WILL OCCUR BUT BEST TO MAKE IT LOOK TIDY AND A FLAT TILE LOOKS TIDIEST

[dustmop 0]

All great ideas above me here.

 

I use bolts with wingnuts and toggle bolts for really light cameras/mics/hornstrobes. For larger/heavier cameras, I usually use strips of wood cut to the size of the tile (2 feet x 2 inches), and then either let the camera housing mounts catch those strips of wood (Pelco type cans), or use regular screws and just screw into the wood. I usually cut them about 1/8" shorter than a ceiling tile in width, to allow for easy removal of the tile down the road.

[Liquid_Squelch 0]

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to give toggle bolts a try first and see how they hold up. (no pun intended).

 

I think that given the little weight of the cameras, and 3 toggle bolts per cam, these things should stay put for quiet some time.

[survtech 0]

There's cameras, and then there's cameras. It depends on the weight. We use simple drywall anchors for light plastic mini-dome cameras and have never had a problem except for the rare time a water leak causes the tile to turn to mush. For heavier cameras, we still use either toggle anchors or machine screws with fender washers. Be careful with plywood. In some cases, you will have to use fire retardant plywood or risk the wrath of building inspectors.

 

For heavier cameras like vandal domes and PTZs, a safety chain is highly recommended.

[the toss 0]

That seems like an overkill.

 

I forgot to add that according to the specsheet, the camera only weighs 400g.

 

 

other way is off cut plastic conduit cut to tile size with long drywall screws

 

I always have offcuts of PVC ducting lying around. I simply cut up the cover strip into about 3" lengths & screw into these on the back of the tiles. It helps to use course threaded screws

[chaz 0]

NEC - national electric code would require the cameras to be supported by the drop tile grid. reasoning is that the tiles could collapse if the tile gets wet or there is a fire which would allow the camera to fall from the ceiling and hit someone.

[jeromephone 6]

We use fender washers and wing nuts the fender washers let you spread the weight on the tile. As the other poster said code requires support other than the ceiling grid.

[dustmop 0]

There's cameras, and then there's cameras. It depends on the weight. We use simple drywall anchors for light plastic mini-dome cameras and have never had a problem except for the rare time a water leak causes the tile to turn to mush. For heavier cameras, we still use either toggle anchors or machine screws with fender washers. Be careful with plywood. In some cases, you will have to use fire retardant plywood or risk the wrath of building inspectors.

 

For heavier cameras like vandal domes and PTZs, a safety chain is highly recommended.

 

Actually, I do use fire rated plywood for my strips. We always have sheets on hand, and when we have to cut one down for something, I cut the scrap into strips for camera supporting.

 

Also, there's nothing like having to install a DF8 dome just for a camera that is like 1/8" too long. Or the stupid rules here where the regulators really want cameras in a dome (not just exposed), so you have to stick one of those super-heavy-bludgeon-your-enemy Axis IP fixed cameras in there.

[the toss 0]

NEC - national electric code would require the cameras to be supported by the drop tile grid. reasoning is that the tiles could collapse if the tile gets wet or there is a fire which would allow the camera to fall from the ceiling and hit someone.

 

Maybe the tiles needs to be waterproof , fireproof & each have a safety chain attached.

[Numb-nuts 1]

Maybe you should use board-rock.

[TipoFloe 0]

I have a basic question for those who have installed cameras in a drop ceiling environment.

 

When you mount the cameras, did you just screw them into the ceiling tiles. If so, did you use the platic 'mollies' that came with the camera? OR - did you screw into the metal cross framing that the ceiling panels fit into?

 

This is a brand new ceiling so the fibers are still fresh. I'm just worried in a few years that the cameras might start coming loose.

 

What is the common practice with this type of install? (The cameras will be dome style cameras without the covers, not PTZ or anything with much weight)

 

I usually screw directly into the metal crossing. I don't drill into the drop ceiling tiles as over time the screw will eat it and fall off...

[Numb-nuts 1]

 

I usually screw directly into the metal crossing. I don't drill into the drop ceiling tiles as over time the screw will eat it and fall off...

 

I've seen that done quite succesfully, but I prefer where to position the camera on the tile area, and don't want to restrict myself to only where the frame crosses. Having said that if I turn up and forgot to bring ply with me, I might be tempted to screw into the frame.

[TipoFloe 0]

 

I usually screw directly into the metal crossing. I don't drill into the drop ceiling tiles as over time the screw will eat it and fall off...

 

I've seen that done quite succesfully, but I prefer where to position the camera on the tile area, and don't want to restrict myself to only where the frame crosses. Having said that if I turn up and forgot to bring ply with me, I might be tempted to screw into the frame.

 

If you have no choice but to mount it in the middle of the tiles, I'd definitely reinforce it with a ply.

[sinbad 0]

Its an old post but just in case, Arlington makes something just for this. Part# FLC430. http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/communications/cam-box-kit-for-installations-of-a-security-camera/FLC430 it runs for $15-20 each drop. I buy them in cases and they work sweet and UL listed. all those hacks mentioned will fail permits with most AHJ if the inspector pop the ceiling tile. You could also accomplish same result by using Blue round box with ears and attaching it with 18AWG wire to building member. The explanation I got from one inspector is that in case of fire, fire dept. folks will need to move away the ceiling tiles and can't have the hazards of cameras hanging in their way. if the box is attached to building it won't fall on their heads.

 

What I liked about the Arlington kit is that it will fit any size camera unlike off the shelf round box.