Exacq trigger for a garage door opener?

[alpine0000 0]

If you can't get a short trigger from Exacq, use this Altronix timer relay instead, in "one shot" mode. http://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=6062

 

That looks nice. But it says in the link below that the trigger voltage range is 7-12 volts, and I'm working with 3.3 volts

 

http://www.altronix.com/products/installation_instructions/6062.pdf

 

The link you posted earlier to the other relay says it will trigger down to 3volts. Wonder if they have an ultra sensitive one like that with the features of the second relay you posted?

[Soundy 1]

You could use a transistor buffer or opto-coupler to allow the 3.3V to trigger a standard relay... most small relays are going to be either 12V or 5V.

[Soundy 1]

Optocoupler sample: http://www.technogumbo.com/projects/Learning-to-Use-an-Optocoupler-or-OptoIsolator/

[hardwired 0]

If you can't get a short trigger from Exacq, use this Altronix timer relay instead, in "one shot" mode. http://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=6062

 

That looks nice. But it says in the link below that the trigger voltage range is 7-12 volts, and I'm working with 3.3 volts

 

http://www.altronix.com/products/installation_instructions/6062.pdf

 

The link you posted earlier to the other relay says it will trigger down to 3volts. Wonder if they have an ultra sensitive one like that with the features of the second relay you posted?

Now I had to go read the manual for your camera! Page 20 has the pertinent information, which is that it is an open-collector type output (actually an open drain N-channel MOSFET, but I digress).

 

In your application, you would not use the 3.3 volt supplied by the camera. You would tie pin 1(ground) from the camera to ground on the timer module, and tie pin 4 (Digital Output) to the trigger input on the input of the relay module, and follow line 5 of the install manual for the timer, where you would use a 2000 Ohm resistor between the trigger input and the +12 volt supply, to keep the input pulled up to a high level when the camera's output is not triggered. Then turn DIP switch #4 on, so "Timing starts after removal of trigger input".

[alpine0000 0]

In your application, you would not use the 3.3 volt supplied by the camera. You would tie pin 1(ground) from the camera to ground on the timer module, and tie pin 4 (Digital Output) to the trigger input on the input of the relay module, and follow line 5 of the install manual for the timer, where you would use a 2000 Ohm resistor between the trigger input and the +12 volt supply, to keep the input pulled up to a high level when the camera's output is not triggered. Then turn DIP switch #4 on, so "Timing starts after removal of trigger input".

 

You're awesome. Thanks for that help!

 

One thing of note -- pin 4 is a grounded output. So you'd be hooking up two grounds to the timer in your example. Wouldn't I have to hook up pin 2 (constant +3.3v), then pin 4 which is the switched ground when the alarm output is triggered?

 

But when I hook up a volt meter to pin 2 and 4, I'm only getting 3.3v on alarm. Pin 1 and 2 are constant power. If you ground pin 3 it makes the alarm NC I think, instead of NO.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong...

[hardwired 0]

Yes, you would connect the ground from the camera to the ground of the relay module. You will not use the 3.3 volt output from the camera. The output on pin 4 acts as a switch that connects to ground (pin 1) when triggered.

 

So, what happens is, with the input tied to the +12 volt supply through the 2000 ohm resistor, and the output (switch) of the camera is not triggered, the input of the relay is raised to +12 volts through the resistor.

 

When the switch closes, the current through the switch (the resistor limits the current to a very small amount, about 6 Milliamps, well within the tolerance of the camera) pulls the input down to ground on the relay.

 

That's why I mentioned setting DIP switch #4 on, so "Timing starts after removal of trigger input", so the operation of the relay triggers when the voltage on it's input goes low (to ground).

[vector18 1]

If you use the alarm output of the dvr, you can ask you neighbor to walk past the camera and your garage door will close. Done. LOL.

 

And what will happen if neighbor walk again ?

 

You'll have a confused garage door? LOL!

[hardwired 0]

If you use the alarm output of the dvr, you can ask you neighbor to walk past the camera and your garage door will close. Done. LOL.

 

And what will happen if neighbor walk again ?

 

You'll have a confused garage door? LOL!

I've got the answer for both of you! A N/C alarm contact on the door connected to ground and the trigger input on my layout, so once the door is closed, it holds the input low and will not let any more triggers from the camera operate the door again.

[alpine0000 0]

Hardwired: I started working on this tonight and noticed a few inconsistancies with what you told me and what I am trying to comprehend from the manual and I wanted to run them by you to see if you agree

 

Now I had to go read the manual for your camera! Page 20 has the pertinent information, which is that it is an open-collector type output (actually an open drain N-channel MOSFET, but I digress).

 

In your application, you would not use the 3.3 volt supplied by the camera. You would tie pin 1(ground) from the camera to ground on the timer module, and tie pin 4 (Digital Output) to the trigger input on the input of the relay module

 

Line 5 of the installation instructions says (see timer instructions here: http://www.altronix.com/products/installation_instructions/6062.pdf):

Note: When triggering via a N.O. (normally open), momentary or maintained trigger, connect the dry contact trigger to Pos (+)

and TRG terminals. When triggering via a N.C. (normally closed), momentary or maintained trigger, connect the trigger to Neg. (-)

and TRG terminals and install a resistor [for 12VDC - 2K (2,000 ohm) or for 24VDC - 4.7K (4,700 ohm)]

between the Pos (+) and TRG terminals (Fig. .

Thus, I am assuming I do the opposite of what you said, since I am using a N.O. trigger? (GRD to trigger and PIN4 to +)

 

Nex thing...

and follow line 5 of the install manual for the timer, where you would use a 2000 Ohm resistor between the trigger input and the +12 volt supply, to keep the input pulled up to a high level when the camera's output is not triggered.

 

According to the same Line 5 from above, it looks like I only have to use a resistor if I am connecting to a N.C. trigger, right? Since my trigger is N.O., then I don't need a resistor I'm assuming?

 

However, in the Axis manual, it says "if used with an external relay, a diode must be connected in parallel with the load". So, on the diagram below, where would I install a diode? Also, please tell me if what I have wired up looks correct, too (something still doesnt seem right to me about how I have it wired up, since the trigger input on the relay says it needs a positive voltage in the manual). I havent tried anything yet since I dont have the diode connected.

 

Thanks!

 

[hardwired 0]

Sometimes inputs on relay modules like this are a little flaky without the pullup resistor, but you could certainly try it the way you described first. Even so, you will need a +12 volt DC power supply for the relay module. The diode you mentioned would be needed with a standard relay to protect from inductive backlash, but the Altronix module has a buffered input, and will not require it. This picture is what I intended.

[alpine0000 0]

Sometimes inputs on relay modules like this are a little flaky without the pullup resistor, but you could certainly try it the way you described first. Even so, you will need a +12 volt DC power supply for the relay module. The diode you mentioned would be needed with a standard relay to protect from inductive backlash, but the Altronix module has a buffered input, and will not require it. This picture is what I intended.

 

Oh okay. Cool. So PIN4 is going to the trigger and the GROUND of the camera is going to ground, then, correct (dont see it labeled on your diagram)? Or does it not matter much?

[hardwired 0]

Sometimes inputs on relay modules like this are a little flaky without the pullup resistor, but you could certainly try it the way you described first. Even so, you will need a +12 volt DC power supply for the relay module. The diode you mentioned would be needed with a standard relay to protect from inductive backlash, but the Altronix module has a buffered input, and will not require it. This picture is what I intended.

 

Oh okay. Cool. So PIN4 is going to the trigger and the GROUND of the camera is going to ground, then, correct (dont see it labeled on your diagram)? Or does it not matter much?

Yes, you are correct. It does matter, the output pin #4 on the camera is designed to pull down to ground. So, when the output of the camera is not triggered, the input of the relay is pulled up to 12 volts through the resistor, and down to 0 volts when the output of the camera is triggered.

[alpine0000 0]

when the output of the camera is not triggered, the input of the relay is pulled up to 12 volts through the resistor, and down to 0 volts when the output of the camera is triggered.

 

The trigger of the timer module is activated when it gets +12volts. So, if what you're saying is true, this means that the timer module will be triggered when the camera output it NOT triggered?? That sounds like the opposite of what should be happening here

[hardwired 0]

That's why I mentioned setting DIP switch #4 on, so "Timing starts after removal of trigger input", so the operation of the relay triggers when the voltage on it's input goes low (to ground), which is what happens when the output of the camera activates.

[alpine0000 0]

That's why I mentioned setting DIP switch #4 on, so "Timing starts after removal of trigger input", so the operation of the relay triggers when the voltage on it's input goes low (to ground), which is what happens when the output of the camera activates.

 

So then that means that the relay is energized all the time, until I send the trigger from the camera... OR my power goes out or flickers, at which point the garage door opens (garage door motor has a backup battery). If I run this setup, then I'd have to move the garage door wires from the N.O. position to the N.C. position on the timer, which means that if the relay loses power, the relay contacts close and the garage door opener wires are constantly being touched together until the relay has power again.

 

I'd hate to have my power flicker at home and then my garage door opens . I'd rather not have the relay energized until I want to open the garage door. Is that possible with what I'm working with here?

[hardwired 0]

That's why I mentioned setting DIP switch #4 on, so "Timing starts after removal of trigger input", so the operation of the relay triggers when the voltage on it's input goes low (to ground), which is what happens when the output of the camera activates.

 

So then that means that the relay is energized all the time, until I send the trigger from the camera... OR my power goes out or flickers, at which point the garage door opens (garage door motor has a backup battery). If I run this setup, then I'd have to move the garage door wires from the N.O. position to the N.C. position on the timer, which means that if the relay loses power, the relay contacts close and the garage door opener wires are constantly being touched together until the relay has power again.

 

I'd hate to have my power flicker at home and then my garage door opens . I'd rather not have the relay energized until I want to open the garage door. Is that possible with what I'm working with here?

That shouldn't happen. The relay itself isn't energized, it's just that the internal timer doesn't run until the trigger input goes low, which should only happen when the camera activates. If you have a home alarm, you could power the relay module off of it, so it has a battery backup as well.

[thewireguys 3]

Why does he need a timer relay again? Mine works fine without a timer. 1 sec trigger on the relay to the 2 wire control on the door.

[alpine0000 0]

Why does he need a timer relay again? Mine works fine without a timer. 1 sec trigger on the relay to the 2 wire control on the door.

 

How do you do a "1-second" trigger on the relay without a timer? Exacq vision doesnt let you control how long the trigger output is, i dont think, and sometimes its hard to turn it on then back off again via the iphone app. It sometimes takes me like 5 seconds to turn it back off. That's why a timer works pretty well, so that *after* i turn off the trigger, THEN it times the 1-second signal to the garage door.

 

Is there a better way that I could consider?

 

Hardwired: I dont have a home alarm.

[alpine0000 0]

it's just that the internal timer doesn't run until the trigger input goes low, which should only happen when the camera activates.

 

The trigger input also goes low if the power goes out or flickers, too, right?

 

I'll give it a try one night this week after work and see how it goes I have a couple of 12v power supplies from my old analog cameras that I can use for power.

[hardwired 0]

it's just that the internal timer doesn't run until the trigger input goes low, which should only happen when the camera activates.

 

The trigger input also goes low if the power goes out or flickers, too, right?

 

I'll give it a try one night this week after work and see how it goes I have a couple of 12v power supplies from my old analog cameras that I can use for power.

Yes, but it should only go low at the same time the relay module loses power, so it will not be able to activate the relay....Probably. Surely won't hurt to test that theory.

[fran 0]

I do not have an exacq-built server. I built my own; it's a dell poweredge. However, I think my cameras have alarm outputs. I have an Axis P3346-VE and a P3367-VE. I also have a Vivotek 8161.

[alpine0000 0]

I do not have an exacq-built server. I built my own; it's a dell poweredge. However, I think my cameras have alarm outputs. I have an Axis P3346-VE and a P3367-VE. I also have a Vivotek 8161.

 

I built my own too, and it is also a Dell PowerEdge. And I am using the alarm output on my P3367-VE. (see previous posts with diagrams and stuff ).

 

However, I am triggering the alarm via exacq's iphone app, and exacq has no timer functionality available.

Edited September 11, 2012 by Guest

[alpine0000 0]

Yes, but it should only go low at the same time the relay module loses power, so it will not be able to activate the relay....Probably. Surely won't hurt to test that theory.

 

See, in your diagram, you put the garage wires on the N.O. terminals, but if we have the relay constantly energized, then we would have to put them on the N.C. terminals instead.

 

Now, when the relay has no power, the two terminals for N.C. have continuity. When the relay is energized, the two terminals for N.O. have continuity. Since we will be energizing the relay constantly when not in alarm state, then the garage door wires will have to hook up to the N.C. terminals, so that they would have continuity when the alarm output of the Axis camera stops energizing them.

 

However, if I lose electricity at my home, then I believe the "timer" function wont work on the relay, but then at that point, even with no power, the relay terminals will not be energized anymore, so it will switch back from N.O. having contuity to then having continuity on the N.C. terminals, which would energize my garage door opener (which has a backup battery). Am I making any sense, or do you think that is incorrect?

 

I will have to test with my volt meter and see if that theory is correct.

[hardwired 0]

Yes, but it should only go low at the same time the relay module loses power, so it will not be able to activate the relay....Probably. Surely won't hurt to test that theory.

 

See, in your diagram, you put the garage wires on the N.O. terminals, but if we have the relay constantly energized, then we would have to put them on the N.C. terminals instead.

 

Now, when the relay has no power, the two terminals for N.C. have continuity. When the relay is energized, the two terminals for N.O. have continuity. Since we will be energizing the relay constantly when not in alarm state, then the garage door wires will have to hook up to the N.C. terminals, so that they would have continuity when the alarm output of the Axis camera stops energizing them.

 

However, if I lose electricity at my home, then I believe the "timer" function wont work on the relay, but then at that point, even with no power, the relay terminals will not be energized anymore, so it will switch back from N.O. having contuity to then having continuity on the N.C. terminals, which would energize my garage door opener (which has a backup battery). Am I making any sense, or do you think that is incorrect?

 

I will have to test with my volt meter and see if that theory is correct.

My design is correct in using the N/O contacts, the relay module has constant power, but the actual relay on the board is not normally energized until triggered.

[alpine0000 0]

Hardwired,

 

So tonight I wired it up (just like you said)... I'm not sure the timer will do what I want it to do.

 

If dip switches 2, 3, and 4 are all set to "on", what should I set dip switch 1 to? If I set it to "off", then the relay stays energized constantly (which won't work here). If I turn it to "on", then the relay never energizes, regardless of whether or not the alarm output on the alarm is triggered or not.

 

 

However, if I switch dip switch 1 and 4 to off, then everything works perfectly, except if I unplug my 12v power supply, then plug it back in, the garage door is triggered, which is bad.

 

 

I would think that dip switch #1 should be off, so that it can time the relay for 1 second, then stop. If you were to switch dip switch 1 on, then relay would energize at the end of the timing cycle, which would time for 1 second, THEN energize the relay for the rest of the time... But if I turn it to off, the relay is constantly energized, except for the intial 1-second after it gets power.

 

When the alarm output on the camera is "off", the timer trigger has 9.5 volts across the GROUND and TRIGGER terminals. When I turn the alarm output of the camera "on", there is no voltage across same terminals.