Setting Up Hitachi VK-C77U?

[hardwired 0]

You may not have any problems, the biggest difference with better cable is that it is more resistant to interference from electrical noise. Try to make sure and keep your cable as far as possible from high voltage power wiring.

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

Possibly florescent lights but as far as 120v power I should be okay, we will see.

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

SO I tried the cheap cable, it works! I installed it with a staple gun and held it loosely so that the cable was snug but it could still be moved.

 

I don't really see any noise or interference however if you look really closely the highs/light spots have a very slight flicker, I couldn't even really call it a flicker it's so slight. However the highs are very blown out, if I manually control the iris then sunset and night won't be correct. Also when I switch my TV to it's coaxial input my camera does not always come up sometimes it takes a few seconds for some reason even though the L1 text/label is smaller then normal which indicates to me as if it's getting signal immediately but possibly it's weak?? Now I'm not sure if this could be the problem but I accidentally stapled through the wire pretty close between the core and shield so I'm thinking maybe a strand or two of the shield is touching the core, is there a way to rule this out maybe with a multi-meter?

[hardwired 0]

SO I tried the cheap cable, it works! I installed it with a staple gun and held it loosely so that the cable was snug but it could still be moved.

 

I don't really see any noise or interference however if you look really closely the highs/light spots have a very slight flicker, I couldn't even really call it a flicker it's so slight. However the highs are very blown out, if I manually control the iris then sunset and night won't be correct. Also when I switch my TV to it's coaxial input my camera does not always come up sometimes it takes a few seconds for some reason even though the L1 text/label is smaller then normal which indicates to me as if it's getting signal immediately but possibly it's weak?? Now I'm not sure if this could be the problem but I accidentally stapled through the wire pretty close between the core and shield so I'm thinking maybe a strand or two of the shield is touching the core, is there a way to rule this out maybe with a multi-meter?

For correcting the oversaturated highlights, try adding a 75 Ohm terminating resistor at the TV input. These type of cameras are designed to provide a 1.0 Volt peak to peak signal into a 75 Ohm load, which is what CCTV equipment provides. However, TV's often present a very high impedance load, allowing the signal voltage to go higher, and affecting the contrast in the image.

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

They look like a BNC cap, I Googled them. Are they a BNC-to-Composite adapter with a resistor in it?

 

Also, I'm having a problem with spiders on the basement window which is where the camera is. Any remedies I can brew up to spray on the window that spiders do not like?

[hardwired 0]

They look like a BNC cap, I Googled them. Are they a BNC-to-Composite adapter with a resistor in it?

 

Also, I'm having a problem with spiders on the basement window which is where the camera is. Any remedies I can brew up to spray on the window that spiders do not like?

Yes, the terminators are just a 75 Ohm resistor in the connector under the cap. They don't have a composite (RCA type) connector, you would use it together with a BNC tee connector. If you can find a way to get a standard 75 Ohm resistor placed across the coax connector/cable at the TV, it will work fine as well.

 

The spiders are coming to find a meal, find a way to get rid of what they are eating, and you should have less of them.

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

Ohh that makes sense, sounds like a cheap fix.

 

I found the solution to the spider problem, they don't like oranges, limes, lemons; citrus because they smell through their feet. The wooden window frame in the basement is really old and dried up so I sprayed some of this super orange cleaner on the wood and it sucked it right up. This stuff will make your hands smell like oranges for days:

 

 

Besides for the blown out highs the image is sharp and this is a photo of the TV:

[stig 0]

The VK-C77 was a very popular camera in its day due to it's 12x zoom and fuzzy logic autofocus. Not many cameras had that feature at the time it was introduced.

 

If you are still looking for a solution to capture s-video and control the camera, take a look at the old Axis 2400 video server. It took both composite and s-video inputs and had a serial port to allow you to pass control command to cameras. Just connect the unit to your camera and plug it into your network with CAT-5 cable. If you want a wireless solution, plug it into a cheap access point. You can find a Linksys access point on eBay for a few dollars.

 

As for the AXIS-2400, search eBay. I've picked them up for $40-$50 in the past. You can download documentation from Axis at this link http://www.axis.com/techsup/cam_servers/cam_2400/index.htm

 

You can also still find VK-C77 cameras on eBay, or this site often has refurbished units http://industrialcamerasales.com/cart/hitachi-vkc77-color-camera-reconditioned-p-33.html

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

I haven't been able to find an Axis 2400 for under $150

 

Over the winter/now spring I have been having an issue with this camera, it just goes MIA some days. Unplugging and plugging it back in does nothing it just works when it wants to but I know it's getting power because when I unplug it I can hear it click. Temp seems to have nothing to do with it, my TV will just show no signal...I have a new thoughts maybe you guys can help me with. I have not added the 75ohm resistor yet to knock down the brightness do you think that will help this signal issue? Remember it's run to a TV composite input (BNC-to-Composite). My other idea was the cable is too long; it's 60ft but I probably only need 40-50 so I was thinking about trying to shorten one end? The only thing I have not tried yet is bringing a TV down there and trying the S-video output when it wont work to make sure it's still putting out signal...

[Horizon 0]

Hi there.

Have you tried a different power supply? The one you're using might be dodgy.

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

No I haven't only because I hear it click when I unplug it which must be the shutter springing shut. Maybe I could try shortening the power cable which is way too long and possibly picking up interference?

[hardwired 0]

I'd try testing the voltage at the camera, with it still connected.

 

If that's within range (+-10-15 percent variance is usually fine), then also test with a TV at the camera. If still nothing, you are probably looking at a problem with the camera itself.

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

Started working today for some reason and I added a 75ohm resistor IT MADE IT BRIGHTER! Who suggested that because it made it more washed out...

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

*BUMP*

 

Sooo...what to do? If 75-ohm makes it brighter/more washed out then do I up up in ohms or down in ohms to correct this problem? 50-ohm? 100-ohm?

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

So I got fed up with the brightness and the lack of knowledge here...bought an adapter to connect the camera to one of my computer monitors (I only have 2 HDMI and 1 VGA input) so I bought this cable on eBay for $2

 

 

I connected the BNC to the composite with an BNC-to-Composite adapter and the monitor does nothing; no signal. So I tried going from BNC-Composite-SVIDEO then an SVIDEO cable from the adapter to the SVIDEO on the VGA cable...monitor would flash quickly something about the resolution it was hard to read. My monitors are 1920x1080 so I tried on a 17" 4:3 with no results!

[Horizon 0]

No, that's the wrong adapter. That one looks like it's a break-out lead for a video card or something.

The composite video to VGA adapters I've seen are a box about the size of a pack of cards - like this randomly picked URL:

http://www.lenkeng.biz/ProductDetails_hdmiconvertor_2.html

The one's I've used work okay, but you need to adjust the contrast and brightness each time it's turned on. It doesn't remember the settings.

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

That is quite the step up from $2 haha it must convert the signal/resolution I may just try one of these cheap PCI cards that support video input I have laying around.

[Horizon 0]

Yeah, I think I paid about $30 for one (a bargin on a local auction site). It does have to capture the video, then upscale it to VGA (or Super VGA?), so there's a bit of smarts inside it.

If you're fitting a capture card to your PC, there's only a few futher steps required to turn it into a DVR with BlueCherry or ZoneMinder...

[Mr. Anonymous 0]

I have been thinking about just getting a capture card, deff a future possibility. What about this route...I only have two inputs on my TV and the other is an RGB so I can't use it for another composite camera, does anyone think I can use an RGB-to-Svideo adapter and then pair that with an Svideo-to-composite adapter??

 

 

I have left all the settings on my camera to auto; left. I decided to play with them today but I do not know what "R" & "B" stands for? I made sure the zoom was all the way out but I really think the iris adjustment is not functioning correctly. When I set the toggle to IRIS and push up or down it does nothing, during the peak of the day the light areas are over exposed and during dusk the picture is very crisp and well lit so the iris must be stuck slightly over exposed which is better then slightly under exposed. Any clue if this camera works with IR flood lights? IR CCD?

[centaurojz 0]

Just wondering if anyone out there has the pin out connections for this camera, (HITACHI VK-C77) I lost the cable that supplies power, and the zoom in-out of it, so I know I can get the connector, and customize my own cable, but need to know the corresponding pins for power and zoom.

I tried searching for the manual, and all I found was the service manual but is kind of expensive, so I am hoping someone has the knowledge here.

 

Thanks you