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nbuuifx

Newbie - bought some bits, after some advice!

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I've been reading through a few posts and found some great advice so figured it would be easiest to register and ask a few questions!

 

I've just purchased a cheap collection of bits. All I want to do is record what happens on my drive.

 

I purchased a 4ch DVR, which I've put a 500GB HD in.

I purchased a 700TVL dome camera

and some various wires.

 

I've plugged it all together and get a better than expected picture.

 

What I wanted to do was just record when motion is detected. I tested it inside and it worked perfectly using the DVR motion detection facility, but I've tried the camera in a temporary position outside and it doesn't work quite so well! It's been a mixture of light snow and rain and the rain/snow keeps setting the motion detection off.

 

2nd problem is that it lights the drive up quite well, but when I walked out to test it the security light comes on. The only problem here is that even though I was looking at the camera my face was unidentifiable as it was just white.

 

I read on here about using a PIR wired up to the alarm inputs.

 

My first question - is it possible to use a PIR off a mains security light? I have one spare - so if it is possible it would save buying anything else.

 

2nd question - The camera has a built in menu system. One of the options in there is motion detection - how does that work? I can't understand how it would feedback?!

 

3rd question - Is there anyway to stop the secuirty light affecting the camera so much? The general picture is fine but it reflects a lot of light back.

 

4th - Is there anything else I should know?

 

 

Thank you!!!!!!!

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First question: Using a PIR from a security light will work, just make sure its connected to it as a NO/NC output, not on a active VAC.

 

Second Question: If the menu you are talking about is accessed directly on the camera, there may be IO outputs built into it. This is common on the more expensive cameras to provide redundancy.

 

Third question: The best option is to disable the security light. If thats not possible, find a way to shield the light from going to the camera. Use duck tape to make a shade.

 

Fourth question: When it comes to your new camera and that security light, try to keep the light source itself out of the cameras view. This will minimize the issues it may have with it.

 

A camera with BLC will do you well in this situation.

 

 

I hope this helps!

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Thanks for the reply.

 

I can disable the secuirty light but do like it being there to be honest! Where it is right now it doesn't shine into the camera, the camera is above it. If I disable the security light then I get an OK picture - it's a little grainy but there is some definition to the faces. If I leave the the light enabled then I get a much better (still black and white - but not grainy) picture of the cars etc but my face was just white.

 

When I fix it properly though I was going to put it closer to the cars and lower down in the hope of getting a closer image of any intruders but again the light should just be out of the field of vision.

 

Looking at the specs of the camera it has BLC and HLC options - but I don't really understand them. If I enable HLC it just blacks out any bright areas. I can see the HLC would be useful to stop people shining bright lights at the camera but don't really understand the BLC option.

 

 

The camera is relatively cheap but has a Sony 1/3 CCD Effio sensor in it.

 

With the PIR is the NO/NC/Active VAC bit you're talking about on the DVR or the PIR? Does the PIR require any power. It came from a mains voltage secuirty light, but the seal went on the light and it corroded inside. The PIR was a separate unit below so was in perfect condition. I removed the light housing and was left with a PIR on it's own. IIRC the PIR just connected to the light with 2 wires.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Edit...

Just checked the DVR itself and the manual and it has:

 

Alarm Out +

Alarm Out -

Aux Power G

Aux Power 12v

Alarm In G

Alarm In 1

Alarm In 2

Alarm In 3

Alarm In 4

 

The manual shows a connectiion between "Alarm In G" and "Alarm In 2" with the trigger connected between these pins. It has a label on it saying "Normally open".

 

Is it a very simple switch set up? Where you connect Alarm G and any of the inputs together and it would start recording?

 

Does a PIR require a power source? I'm guessing it does and as it was a mains one it will need a mains power supply - does that sound right - if so it may be a dead end.

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Wire the PIR to any alarm in/alarm in ground. Then in the dvr menu settings, make the triggering of that alarm channel start a recording sequence of the camera channel you want. That will help reduce false triggers. As far as light is concerned, this is a typical problem. It may not be solvable. At the same wattage bulb, you can look for different types as there are concentrated type head light beam and wash type bulbs. The wash type may help, but it's doubtful. You can try less wattage bulbs as well and that can help. I had the same problem at work, with a camera installed right by a double motion light fixture blasting 180 watts of light when it came on. Impossible for the camera to overcome that- a decent digital watchdog camera. What I did was to change out the fixture for a nice looking enclosed light fixture-

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202193052?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=exterior+wall+light&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202573675&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=202193052#.UUYTd7Nnrv0

 

This fixture takes an eco bulb which saves a ton of electricity. It also creates a wash of light instead of a blast of harsh light. It's also an always-on, sensing darkness and staying on until daybreak. All good things, however the fixture only puts out 60 watts of light max. That's a good deal less light than even a one bulb fixture at 90 watts of light. So, it's not gonna be a security light in general, but more of an accent light which will provide light overall, but a greatly reduced light throw. BUT, what this accomplished was the perfect balance of light for the camera to handle so faces didn't get whited out by blasting light. Now faces remain perfectly visible on the deck where all this is installed. It provides constant light for deterrent and perfect amount of light for the camera to record. I'll post some pics of the problem, and this solution so you can see it, later tonight. Perhaps it will be a consideration for you.

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As I said, some pics of the situation-

 

180 watt motion fixture-

 

nightexteriorlighton2-1.jpg

 

New fixture-

 

214555_1.jpg

 

214555_2.jpg

 

Every spot is different and so yours will be too. This may not work out for you overall, but it's something to consider anyway. Good luck.

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Thanks for posting those.

 

 

The main thing I notice is that mine stays in black and white even when the security light comes on, presumably because the light doesn't hit the photocell on the camera.

 

 

I've now got to buy another couple of cameras to complete the setup. Do I just go with another couple of the same cameras (700 TVL Sony Effio based cheapy chinese dome cameras)

 

Or do I go with something more advanced?

 

I had heard that it wasn't really worth going for 700TVL but it wasn't much more for a 700TVL hence why I got that one. Is it true that a 700TVL is no better than a 600TVL? I'm recording at D1 resolution.

 

My DVR is a relatively cheap KONGTOP 500GB 4CH DVR.

 

I'm fairly happy with the camera I got - the colour pictures are comparable to the ones above, the black and white pictures can be a bit grainy if there isn't much light but my new placement of the camera should hopefully help with that.

 

Any advice on the sort of thing I should be looking for.

 

One of the cameras will need a wide angle again so the exact same camera would be perfect, but I'm not sure for the 3rd camera. I need one to go in our porch (imagine an open porch with no front or side wall - more just a roof!) I want it to go up in the corner and record anyone that comes to the door - would a wide anle be best here too?

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