Hikvision DS-2CD2032-I teardown

[mroek 0]

Curiosity got the better of me (and killed the cat..), so I decided to crack open one of my brand new Hiks to see what it was like inside. Being a nice guy, I thought I'd share my findings with you guys.

 

The housing itself is held together by three philips head screws, but to get at the screws you have to remove some rubber inserts from the screw holes. They're embedded quite deep, so not very easy to get out.

 

This is what you will see when you remove the front part of the housing (need to disconnect the ribbon cable and one more cable):

 

 

The connector with the multiple colored wires goes to the pigtail on the outside of the camera, so it contains the network and power wires. The board you can see, is therefore the power supply board, and it also has the physical ethernet transformer on it, as you can see.

 

Here's a closeup of the same board, but fully removed from the housing:

 

 

The other side of the same board:

 

 

Note the black board-to-board connector. This is where it connects to the mainboard with the CPU, which you can see here, while it is still sitting in the housing. The ethernet PHY and the flash is also here, but unfortunately I forgot to lift off the label on the flash, so I don't have the part number:

 

 

Here's the other side of the main CPU board, removed from the housing. Note the reset button and the 256MB DDR3 SDRAM:

 

 

If we lift off that orange sticky foam from the CPU, we can see (not easy to see from the image, I admit) that it is a Ambarella A5s SoC. The connector at the upper left is not connected to anything, and I'd be willing to bet that it has the RS232 pins to get access to the bootloader. I didn't test it, though:

 

 

Here's the rear housing with all the electronics removed. As you can see, the cables are embedded in some kind of rubbery sealant where they enter the housing, so they can't be easily removed. Keeps everything pretty waterproof, though:

 

 

The front part of the housing has the lens and IR-boards, and looks like this while still attached to the housing:

 

 

The assembly removed from the housing. Note the small silica gel bag that has been zip-tied to the cable to keep moisture low:

 

 

Here's how it looks from the side:

 

 

And finally, here's the front of this assembly. The lens is glued, as others have said, but it is not easily visible in the image. If you look closely, you can see a shiny little speck at around 1 o'clock, but there is quite a bit more glue there:

 

 

And finally, the empty front part of the housing:

 

 

I think the build quality seems to be excellent, and they have done a very nice job with the weatherproofing. The two housing halves has a nice, molded gasket between them (can be seen in the first image), and everything is kept very tidy inside.

 

Good job, Hikvision!

[Firefighter 0]

This is old but I'll tell ya, Thank you for posting the photos.

 

Confirms there being no card slot.

[MikesCams 0]

Very cool, thanks for sharing!

[MaxIcon 0]

There are a couple of techniques for removing the rubber plugs from the screwholes, but this is what worked for me:

 

Take a wood screw thin enough and long enough to fit into the hole, and start screwing it in. It'll dig into the plugs and pull them out along the threads without messing up the heads on the small screws.

 

They rubber plugs aren't needed for weatherproofing, since there's a gasket between the halves of the body.

[Dartinto1 0]

Thanks for magnificent photos and the instructions for opening the cameras.

I have 4 cameras 2CD2032 DS-I, all of them with 4mm lenses, and would like to replace those lenses by new ones of 6mm or even 8mm (why not ?) or 12mm. I already knew that Hikvision did not provide substitution lenses, and I tried to buy from them the complete lens boards, but even that was impossible. However, stubborn as I am, I'm trying to find a manufacturer with compatible lenses. However I didn't open my cameras yet, so, I come to ask you if you can provide me the dimentions (diameter and height) and maybe other relevant data of the original lenses.

[ElectricLegs 0]

Any lens with these specs:

 

http://www.m12lenses.com/12-0mm-F1-8-Mega-Pixel-CCTV-Board-Lens-p/pt-1218mp.htm

[MaxIcon 0]

The main risk with replacing the lens is that the new lens won't screw in far enough to focus without hitting the IR filter housing. There's no way to know for sure if this will happen with a particular lens without trying.

 

Any of the lenses from M12lenses.com should work, with the caveat above. Be sure you're looking at the 1/3" sensor page, as their board cam lens landing page has a mix of 1/3" and 1/2" lenses.

[Q2U 0]

Curiosity got the better of me...

 

Nice photographs BTW. Thanks for taking the time to do it right.

[Mael 0]

I wonder what that open header on the board is used for. Any ideas?

 

[mroek 0]

I wonder what that open header on the board is used for. Any ideas?

It's only open because the front assembly has been disconnected. You can see the connector with the black wires in some of the other pictures.

[Razer_SE 0]

Old post I'm aware, but I also wanted to say thanks for doing these photos and taking the time. I'm looking at moving to these cameras over the ACTi e31 and e32 cameras as I'm having too many issues with them right now. Now I'm off to find a good place to purchase a bunch of these...

[Dartinto1 0]

Any lens with these specs:

 

http://www.m12lenses.com/12-0mm-F1-8-Mega-Pixel-CCTV-Board-Lens-p/pt-1218mp.htm

 

Those lenses are only Megapixel lenses, so I contacted M12 about this and just received the following information which can be useful for all of us :

 

"These lenses are good upto 1.3MP. We do have a 3MP version, but not on the store yet. Hopefully, we can add them up by next week. They are suitable for Day/Night operation. I can get you the dimensions probably next week."

[Dartinto1 0]

I already successfully replaced the lenses of two of my 4 cameras HIKVISION DS - 2CD2032 -I and I would like to share my experience with you.

 

Before anything else I want to thank all the previous posts that made my life easier because when I opened my cameras I already knew what I will find.

 

I also apologize for my bad English.

 

I would like to mention that I do not intend in any way to encourage anyone to replace the lenses on these cameras, but only to contribute to a better knowledge of what is possible to do.

 

In fact, if you have some practice to tinker with fine mechanics and electronics and some knowledge of optics, you can do it easily, but if you don’t have this knowledge you can make irreversible errors.

 

I started my work by doing an exhaustive search of possible suppliers of lenses, especially in Europe, as import anything from outside the E.U. is much more expensive because of the fees involved.

 

I found very good and not expensive lenses in stockoptics.com (UK) and ordered one of each of the following types:

 

CCTV-BL-D/N-6-3MP-400-850nm

CCTV-BL-D/N-8-3MP-400-850nm

CCTV-BL-D/N-12-3MP-400-850nm

 

These lenses are listed for 1/3” sensors but they really are 1 / 2.5" format.

 

This means that we can use them on a 1/3 "sensor just with a slightly reduction of the angle view.

 

The 1 / 2.5” format ensures that the lens introduces no dark corners in the image, and that the distortion is also lower because the lenses are using the most central part.

 

These lenses are suitable for either CMOS or CCD sensors.

 

They are Day/Night lenses, optimized for the peak transmission up to 850nm.

 

The transmission still be good up to 1000nm and beyond.

 

The dimensions are very similar to the original lens of HIKVISION which will help to not collide with the front glass of the camera.

 

At the first camera (HIKVISION_3) I replaced the original lens of 4mm by a new one of 8mm.

 

To do this I disassembled the camera and removed the lens holder which greatly aids the work of removing the two pieces of glue that are holding the lens.

 

Before removing the lens holder do not forget to remove the filter drawer.

 

To soften the glue pieces I used a cotton swab dipped in PVC cleaner, then removed them with a tweezers with fine tips.

 

Never use solvents, as the support of the lens is plastic.

 

Testing the product on a small area of the lens holder is a good option to verify that it does not spoil the plastic.

 

In order to ensure that will not spoil the filter when you are searching for the focus, I advise that you screw the new lens to the level of the rear face of the lens holder before assembling again the block.

 

So when looking later for the focus you just need to unscrew the lens.

 

Just for reference I inform you that the focal point was obtained when the top of the lens is at the same level of the top of the IR LEDs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the second camera (HIKVISION_2) I changed the original 4mm lens for a new one of 12mm by using the same method.

 

 

 

[CWatters 0]

Thanks for the great photos.

 

Regarding the 12(?) pin connector for the pigtails. Presumably only 10 pins are used? (8 for Ethernet and 2 for DC power).

 

I was wondering if the remaining two were for an alarm input? It would be nice if the camera could support something like an external PIR sensor. I find image based motion detection unreliable due to moving shadows from trees etc.

 

The firmware says:

 

Number of Alarm Input 0

Number of Alarm Output 0

 

So that would probably also need changing unless there is a link on the PCB somewhere that tells the firmware it has/hasn't got support for an alarm input/output.

[aster1x 0]

very cool share, but the night vision I think may not so good as colored day performance,

 

the Ambarella SOC is A5S on this model ?you sure ?

 

what sensor??

 

We also have Ambarella SOC products, the day image is similar, but ours have contained more details;

 

Do you produce surveillance cameras? What do you mean by " ... more details.."? What sensors do you use do get better image quality?

Please provide us with more info.

[mroek 0]

the Ambarella SOC is A5S on this model ?you sure ?

what sensor??

I don't know which sensor it is, but I'm sure the chip was marked A5S.

[vlymar 0]

Good afternoon, there was a task to get this camera analog output. Is it possible to connect or soldered to the motherboard to certain pins, but how? Thank you.

[dknabe 0]

I can confirm that the RS232 port does indeed work and provides console access. Levels are 3.3v. Use a USB-to-RS232 TTL 3.3v adapter. RS232 pinout on the board is:

1. 3.3vdc (not needed)

2. Rx

3. Tx

4. Gnd (nearest the screw hole)

 

I use Putty for serial usb access with the following settings.

baud rate= 115,200

stop bits=1

parity=none

flow control=none

 

Here's the beginning of the tty console session for a DS-2032-I that I have.

U-Boot 1.3.4-100728 (Nov 11 2014 - 13:58:34)

ARM Clock: 480MHz

DDR Clock: 336MHz

Hit Ctrl+u to stop autoboot: 2

Hit Ctrl+u to stop autoboot: 1

Hit Ctrl+u to stop autoboot: 0

|BIND err|

Unknown command:null

nand booting ...

load kernel...

load ramdisk...

 

init started: BusyBox v1.19.3 (2014-07-11 11:25:54 CST)

starting pid 375, tty '': '/etc/init.d/rcS'

Starting udev: [ OK ]

starting pid 606, tty '': '/sbin/iptables -A INPUT -p tcp --dport 23 -j DROP'

starting pid 607, tty '': '/sbin/iptables -A INPUT -p tcp --dport 22 -j DROP'

starting pid 608, tty '': '/sbin/iptables -A INPUT -p tcp --dport 21 -j DROP'

starting pid 609, tty '': '/sbin/inetd -f -e /etc/inetd.conf'

starting pid 610, tty '': '-/bin/sh'

 

BusyBox v1.19.3 (2014-07-11 11:25:54 CST) built-in shell (ash)

Enter 'help' for a list of built-in commands.

UBI device number 1, total 191 LEBs (24643584 bytes, 23.5 MiB), available 0 LEBs (0 bytes), LEB size 129024 bytes (126.0 KiB)

waiting for /dev/ubi1_0.

Check dir /dav ok! (0)

UBI device number 3, total 32 LEBs (4128768 bytes, 3.9 MiB), available 0 LEBs (0 bytes), LEB size 129024 bytes (126.0 KiB)

waiting for /dev/ubi3_0.

Check dir /davinci ok! (0)

UBI device number 4, total 31 LEBs (3999744 bytes, 3.8 MiB), available 0 LEBs (0 bytes), LEB size 129024 bytes (126.0 KiB)

waiting for /dev/ubi4_0.

Check dir /config ok! (0)

Hit Ctrl+c to stop and exec /home/initrun.sh to continue

--------------------------

Lots of cool access via the console.

 

Cheers,

Doug

[dknabe 0]

Clarification of mistake on RS232 pinout. TX and RX are swapped in the above post from the point of view of the camera. The camera RS232 pinout is 2-TX, 3-RX, 4-gnd. Connect TX of your RS232 adapter to pin 3 of the camera, RX of your adapter to pin 2, and ground to ground. Sorry for the confusion.

[binoo 0]

REVIVE!!

 

newbie CCTV guy here. just installed 7 IP/POE cameras around my place and just the other day one of them went offline!!

 

no power going to it, disconnected it and plugged it directly to POE switch, still nothing. looks like some water got in and messed things up. I wanted to try and fix it myself by replacing the Ethernet/power dongle on the camera, looks like there's some corrosion inside and water probably shorted it out after the storm. I'm "hoping" the dongle is the only problem. I cut off the female end of the dongle (Ethernet end) and stripped the wire. I was hoping to find the same color codes (w/b, w/o, w/g, w/br) but instead I found other colors that I have no idea how to match them up, was going to put on a new connector.

 

does anyone have any clue as to where to find parts for this camera? I want to try replacing the dongle rather than buying a whole new camera.

 

thanks for any advice!

[MaxIcon 0]

Parts can be hard to find. Here's a Hik wire color chart from someone on another forum:

 

Figured it out after tedious effort. For others who might need this.

 

Standard -> Hikvision

 

1. White/orange striped -> Orange

2. Solid orange -> Yellow

3. White/green striped -> Green

4. Solid blue -> Purple

5. White/blue striped -> Grey

6. Solid green -> Blue

7. White/brown striped -> White

8. Brown -> Brown

[binoo 0]

hey thanks for posting!

 

 

just yesterday I had called our Canadian hikvision supplier and he had a nice diagram. just need to find out how I can upload it on here so everyone can see.

 

I managed to get a connector on, and now it's back up and running! I guess I didn't water proof it enough, thankfully it didn't fry the circuit board.

[ak357 0]

hey thanks for posting!

 

 

just yesterday I had called our Canadian hikvision supplier and he had a nice diagram. just need to find out how I can upload it on here so everyone can see.

 

I managed to get a connector on, and now it's back up and running! I guess I didn't water proof it enough, thankfully it didn't fry the circuit board.

 

Enjoy

[binoo 0]

nice!! good job guys. I wish they would have just used the popular color codes, would have been much easier. but, it does work now and I just saved myself another $120 or so from buying a new camera

[Rub87 0]

Hello,

 

Great write-up and pictures!

 

Could you maybe find out what is behind the sticker with the serial number that is blurred out? I think I can see 2 IC's there.

 

The reason for asking is that I want to modify the PoE circuit so it gets recognized as a class 2 (802.3af) device. For this it needs to pull around 18 mA during the signature phase. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet#Configuration_via_Ethernet_layer_2_LLDP) My Netgear GS105PE switch otherwise refuses to send power to the camera because I suspect it to have no signature at all, making it appear to the switch as a class 0 device, to which the GS105PE only supplies power when its fed by a 802.3at PD, which I do not have.

 

I was hoping that there would be something like a TI TPS2370 (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slus537c/slus537c.pdf) in there that just lacks the signature resistor.