How to go through the wall/window?

[empedokles 0]

The cables one can buy are 25 - 30m, but the connector is a bit big. (I intend to drill a hole trough the window framing). How to isolate?

Would it be better to go for this:

http://www.cctvcamerapros.com/CAT-5-Wiring-Diagram-s/293.htm ?

On the other hand the process looks not very newbee-friendly.

[lowpro 0]

It's gonna be up to you. Do you want to make a bigger hole or a smaller hole? It's pretty easy to crimp on a connector. You're just going to have to practice a few times. Look at Monoprice.com for some tools, they aren't very expensive. Something new for you to learn.

[mgb 0]

Raw wire without the ends already on does make installing the cable easier with smaller holes.

If you decide you have to use pre made cables, can you bring the wires through your attic into the eaves where larger holes may be less noticeable than beside a window.

[buellwinkle 0]

Just go through the wall next to the window where you mount the camera. The camera should hide the wire from the outside and inside use a j-box with a wall plate with a hole in it near the floor.

 

This is one of those cases you may need to pay someone, like an electrician to fish the wire properly for you and have a setup that looks professionally installed. Or if you want, I can lend you one of my glass drill bits and just go through the middle of the window, LOL.

[empedokles 0]

Or if you want, I can lend you one of my glass drill bits and just go through the middle of the window, LOL.

LOL, now that would be a bit heavy.

If I just need the cable and sockets it should be possible to do for me. Or will this need a tool?

But this cat5e cables come in quite a variety. Which one shall I get?

My last one with connectors was "PATCH CABLE SF-UTP CAT5E 30.0M" but is 5-6 meters too short.

 

Unshielded? SF-UTP, U/UTP, U/UTP Solid, F/UTP - What the heck?

 

http://www.ohc24.ch/products/1392394

http://www.ohc24.ch/products/1392404

http://www.ohc24.ch/products/1392392

http://www.ohc24.ch/products/1633339

[buellwinkle 0]

You want solid, not stranded (use for patch cables), UTP means unshielded twisted pair and is most common. The S or SF prefix means shielded with the F standing for Foil.

 

You are overthinking this. If you need a cable longer than 30m, then you should buy bulk cable, don't know in your area where they use meters, but in the U.S., you can buy bulk cable in 500' and 1,000' lengths which the small is equivalent to the 100m length. Should not be too expensive.

 

Then you'll need to buy RJ45 plugs like these - http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-R6G088-10-RJ45-Plug-10-Pack/dp/B00006HY3Q/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1408121929&sr=8-11&keywords=rj45+ten+pack

 

Then buy the crimper tool like this one - http://www.amazon.com/Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers-Tools/dp/B0055EXMII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1408121972&sr=8-3&keywords=rj45+crimper

 

Then buy a tester - http://www.amazon.com/Generic-TET-028-2MX-p-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00118038Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1408122005&sr=8-4&keywords=rj45+tester

 

Then watch a youtube on how to do it.

[MrMxyzptlk 0]

I am in agreement with the majority here. Capping CAT5 or CAT6 is far better in the long run that buying specific length patch cables. Just another tool to drop in the toolbox. When you get used to it you can fly through and the time saved pulling through smaller holes and not worrying about buggering heads will be worth it in the long run. Just make sure to get the pattern right, it's important. Very important.

[empedokles 0]

Do you guys think the shielded is worth the extra money?

[mgb 0]

No

Stick with non shielded

[empedokles 0]

What does AWG 26/7 and AWG 24/1 mean? The Foliage one (F/UTP) is not much more expensive.

http://www.ohc24.ch/products/1392392

[catseyenu 0]

American wire gauge (AWG), also known as the Brown & Sharpe wire gauge, is a standardized wire gauge system used since 1857 predominantly in North America for the diameters of round, solid, nonferrous, electrically conducting wire.[1] The cross-sectional area of each gauge is an important factor for determining its current-carrying capacity.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

[buellwinkle 0]

The smaller the gauge, the thicker the wire, the harder it is to bend around corners for an install. Then you have the issue of the RJ45 plug, make sure it's made for that gauge. Cat5 is 24-26 gauge and Cat6 is 22-24 gauge.

[mgb 0]

stick with cat5e

stick with solid wire (not stranded)

stick with 24 awg

stick with no foil or shield

don't run right along side ac voltage and you'll be fine

[buellwinkle 0]

Actually from what I learned is it's not the AC line in parallel that causes interference, it's when the wires cross over each other. We take all precautions, have about a 1' spacing in the ground and use burial grade foil shielded cable, but that's a commercial install, no need to get that fancy at home.

[mgb 0]

Actually from what I learned is it's not the AC line in parallel that causes interference, it's when the wires cross over each other. We take all precautions, have about a 1' spacing in the ground and use burial grade foil shielded cable, but that's a commercial install, no need to get that fancy at home.

 

no, you actually have that backwards.

(and I know I wont explain this well )

the way I learned it was that the way the emi emanates around the power cable would carry onto the data cable run along side but crossing over, you are going perpendicular thereby not within it so it doesn't carry on to the data cable.

 

I know I didn't explain that well but when I learned it, there were handy little illustrations that I don't have now.

 

of course the twisting of cables helps as well.

 

but in the case of the op here I would say the point is moot based on the fact that they are talking about drilling along side the window, so I'm guessing they're not going in the walls any way.

[empedokles 0]

But then it's getting quite cold in winter.

Maybe I should go to cat6, not so many losses?

[buellwinkle 0]

There's no issue with going with Cat6, just make sure you get Cat6 RJ45 plugs. As for temperature, you have it backwards and the effect is not as direct as you would think. What happens is as temperature increases, the effect of the insulator on the changes and that can cause interference, but in the typical temperature variations you may experience you will not see any difference. If your cable is exposed to the elements, make sure it's outdoor rated, otherwise UV sun rays will deteriorate the outer shell of the cable.

[empedokles 0]

There is one, but I don't know if it's solid. They only write Aluminium-Copper-Mixture.

http://www.ohc24.ch/de/products/1392416-cpv0033-logilink-patchkabel-kat-6-uutp-100-m?price-min=15&price-max=50&q=LogiLink+Patchkabel&man=[LogiLink]&cat=[Netzwerkkabel]

Plugs are much harder to find for these Cat 6 though.

[catseyenu 0]

Plugs are much harder to find for these Cat 6 though.

 

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051305&p_id=7266&seq=1&format=2

[empedokles 0]

I'm unfortunately not from the US.

This one would be convenient: But It probably is not possible to power these sockets with two injectors?

 

[ssmith10pn 0]

Pictures of this install would be great! " title="Applause" />

[gb5102 0]

They only write Aluminium-Copper-Mixture.

 

Avoid using Copper-Clad Aluminum(CCA) cable, it is garbage

[empedokles 0]

What about fully copper? Cat 6:

http://megashop.ips-tip.ch/tabid/55855/Default.aspx?ID=203548

[catseyenu 0]

I prefer the 23AWG Cat6 500MHz UTP Solid, Riser Rated like this if you can find it:

 

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023401&p_id=8107&seq=1&format=2

 

Higher transfer rate and a little more rigid so it doesn't kink and break when pulling.

[empedokles 0]

Well, I finally went with the ordinary cable, as the sellers don't categorize their stuff very good here. Now I have to isolate the hole somehow.