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mrg99

SNS BNC Connectors with Siamese Direct Burial Cable

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We are using RG59 Siamese direct burial cable on our cable runs and I'm having a real problem using this cable with BNC compression connectors.

At first I was using Ideal compression connectors but they are almost impossible to work onto the cable to the proper depth and you can't tell if the center conductor is properly aligned in the connector.

Today I tried using a Belden Snap n Seal connector, I like the idea that the center conductor is properly inserted into the pin at the back of the connector (anyone familiar with these connectors knows what I'm talking about).

The problem is it's even harder to insert the cable into these connectors to the proper depth...we're talking a good 20 minutes or more of struggling and pushing resulting in very sore fingers after one or two connectors. There's no way an installer could do this all day long!

At first I thought it might be the small ridge that is left on the cable jacket after the power cables are separated from the coax so I sanded it down, but it made no difference.

The jacket of a direct burial cable is a lot stiffer than a standard cable, so this may be the problem (I was thinking about hitting the cable with a heat gun before inserting it or maybe making a slit along the outer jacket).

 

I'm using the Belden Snap & Seal FSNS59BNCU-25 connectors with an RG59 Siamese Coaxial Cable, Direct Burial, 20AWG Solid BC, 95% BC Braided from Primus Cable.

 

I was wondering if anyone could share a tip or trick to make this easier, it almost impossible to insert the cable to the proper depth, there has to be a better way.

Thanks!

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With a lot of research and some trial and error, I will share my solution in the event someone else has this problem.

The jacket of the direct burial cable (at least the one I'm using) is Flame Retardant PVC (FRPVC) it is a very stiff material, I imagine in the winter it would be almost impossible to manipulate.

Several manufacturers sell coax flaring tools for RG6 and RG59 cables, the recommendation is to not exceed 1/8" in depth because the outer jacket could expand to a larger diameter than could fit into the connector - these are mostly recommended for the standard type coax in colder ambient temps.

My solution was to first strip the cable using the standard 1/4" - 1/4" tool. Prior to working the braided shield back over the outer jacket, I made two horizontal slits, 180 degrees apart, in the outer jacket starting about 3/8 to 1/2" back and then folding the braid back.

Viola! I was able to insert the connector with a minimal amount of effort.

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