Home system installed and need advice.

[rory 0]

Yes they are B/W I made sure to get them B/W because I knew I would be using them in low light conditions, they are rated at 0.07 lux at F1.2.

 

Three Beam Patterns: Narrow, Medium, Wide

UF100.X0Y ( x = beam pattern, y = filter )

Examples:

UF100.401 = UF100 @ 60 o Wide Beam, 730 nm filter

UF100.304 = UF100 @ 30o Medium Beam, 950 nm filter

UF100.203 = UF100 @ 10o Narrow Beam, 830 nm filter

 

 

x Beam Pattern

2 10 o - Narrow Beam

3 30 o - Medium Beam

4 60 o - Wide Beam

 

y Filter

1 730 nm (5W bulb glow)

3 830 nm (0.5W bulb glow)

4 950 nm (covert)

 

NOTE: Wide angle lenses are not generally suggested for Infrared lighting, as you would then require a much wider beam, and loose out on some of the distance, and wide angle is lower quality image and since it is IRand still dark, your image may not be as crisp as it will be with a narrow lens such as 8 or 12mm. But your camera focal lengths seem like they are pretty narrow, 4-6mm? So you should be fine.

 

In your case I would go with the UF100.303- 30 degree Beam so you get more coverage ans still goes pretty far like around 100 feet.

Pricing:

For wholesale pricing it is as much as $350, and for retail as much as $656.

UFPS-101 - SIngle Power Supply with Photocell - $136 from Spytown

 

You can hang the LED right below the camera from the bottom of the housing, they do have wall brackets also, dont see them on the spytown site but they cost $20 - part# is EXMB.026

 

Spytown.com has it listed at the wholesalepricing of $350

http://www.spytown.com/search--by-part-number--extreme--uniflood-illuminator---mid-range.html

 

For example (this is only going by the PDF a I havent used this IR yet):

10 Degree - 164ft

30 Degree - 100 ft (Approx)

60 Degree - 50 ft (Approx)

 

NOTE: these distances decrease for outside use, though only by a little bit. They claim on one camera that does 150ft distance to only do 75 ft outdoor, but im getting over 100 ft with them at a location I installed them at (i know because I measured all the areas when I installed the yard beams for the alarm)

 

The 950nm may have issues with the camera you have so Id go with the semi covert 830nm to be safe (its what I have used in the past), which still emmits a small red glow a few feet from the IR Led.

 

Again, havent used this LED before and only going by the images and the PDF and the claimed total IR length of 164ft.

 

 

The narrower one may miss out on the egdes which is why I was going inbetween using the 30 degree. The 60 degree may miss out on some images further away, especially in that camera 4.

 

Ofcourse you could get 2 of the 10 degree ones and you would be set. I am using 2 UF 500 10 degree LEDs and it covers the entire image, like daylight, down a long driveway! With only one of them it misses out on part of the left and right edge of the image and not as bright a image, though still works good.

 

Hope this helps some

 

NOTE: you will also need to buy a power supply and they are not cheap also.

 

NOTE: if using where there is alot of lighting like some of the other cameras, you may get some glare, so I would only use them if you really have to, or in very dark areas like in camera 4.

 

NOTE: if you wanted, but would mean spending some more dollars, you could use a DAY/Night camera, which is color in the day and switches to BW at night, with the IR LEDs, im using a Sanyo High Res DAy/Night with the 2 UF500 Leds, and I can even see a car's licence plate as it is as if its day light. The UF 500's are overkill though in my opinion, at least for the app i am using it for, just didnt know which one to get in the begining and that was the first one. Then all the rest were the EX82 cameras and they work fine. A seperate LED though is nice so you can manouver it different from the camera.

 

Rory

[ChuckP 0]

Thank you for the suggestions, one question I have is about the power supply. If I allready have a 24VAC power supply that I use to power the cameras, I cant just run another wire for the UF100, I have to get the power supply to run the cable to?

[rory 0]

Thank you for the suggestions, one question I have is about the power supply. If I allready have a 24VAC power supply that I use to power the cameras, I cant just run another wire for the UF100, I have to get the power supply to run the cable to?

 

Yes you could, but the Extreme Power Supply comes with a photo cell, so the IR will only be on during the night, instead of all day and night. This saves on the lifetime of the IR LED. And you dont want to look at these LEDs during the day, or night, they can hurt your eyes as they did mine, though the ones I were using were the 600 foot ones, much stronger, I wore shades and my eyes still hurt. Main thing is the photo cell and life of the IR LED. They do sell replacement bulbs also for like $40.

 

I would keep the power supplies seperate either way as I lost 2 cameras to using the Extreme CCTV UF500 LED power supply, also for the camera, now i use a seperate power supplyfor the camera. You could always buya photo cell for the 24VAC power supply for the IR LED, using a standard 24VAC power supply. I think they are cheap in Electric Stores. Keep them seperate either way. Just buy an extra 24VAC power supply if you want, and a plug in photocell/timer to turn on that power supply.

 

I would email ExtremeCCTV first to verify this, but should work, as I am using a regular 24VAC power supply for the EX82 IR Cameras, and have even tested using a 16VAC temporarily.

 

The Extreme Power Supplies, (at least for the UF500), is a weatherproof plastic box, with a power supply, HighVoltage inputs, LED 24VAC outputs, and a PhotoCell mounted on the casing. Thats why they cost so much.

 

Rory

[rory 0]

Thank you for the suggestions, one question I have is about the power supply. If I allready have a 24VAC power supply that I use to power the cameras, I cant just run another wire for the UF100, I have to get the power supply to run the cable to?

 

Sorry, just checking again, if your are using a multiple 24VAC power Supply, with enough ampage it will work, In not 100% great with power, ampage etc, Maybe Allen (AVCONSULTING, been in electronics for years) can help on that, or email Extreme Direct from their web site to double check. Remember Warranty can be affected if using the incorrect power supply, sometimes.

[AVCONSULTING 0]

UF100's require at least 5.6 amp, 12.6 VAC, not 24 VAC. It is a rather difficult power supply to find so you should just pony up for the official one from Extreme. As Rory says it also has the photoelectric cell for night time only operation. They use a bulb, not LEDs with about 8000 hours life so if you ran 24 hrs a day you would have some big problems. Also if a red glow isn't going to be a problem in the neighborhood (not super bright like conventional lights but you will see it) then get the 730 nm filter since it is more efficient. If you have to have a more semi-covert model then get the 830 nm filter.

[rory 0]

UF100's require at least 5.6 amp, 12.6 VAC, not 24 VAC. It is a rather difficult power supply to find so you should just pony up for the official one from Extreme. As Rory says it also has the photoelectric cell for night time only operation. They use a bulb, not LEDs with about 8000 hours life so if you ran 24 hrs a day you would have some big problems. Also if a red glow isn't going to be a problem in the neighborhood (not super bright like conventional lights but you will see it) then get the 730 nm filter since it is more efficient. If you have to have a more semi-covert model then get the 830 nm filter.

 

 

I knew alan would know that stuff! I guess I need to start studying the manuals that come with this stuff some more so Id know the technical specs some more! But still you have years of experience which is why you are very useful Hey, why dont you write a book on CCTV or something, like to do with DVRs etc. I think it would sell. You have a vast knowledge of alot of different types of products which would be very useful.

 

On another note, that dual power supply i used for the UF500's had a 12 volt power output for a camera, which i used, but went through 2 cameras using it, dont know what happened but they just went bad, (picture went all glossy and florescent in both cases). SO far the 3rd one is powered seperately and working fine. ANd those UF500 LEDs can really do some hurt on the eyes, i wore shades and still they were bright in that though you cant see the light, it is there in full force! But they definately work, i imagine the UF100 light is much less painful on the eyes though.

[ChuckP 0]

Oky I think Im going to go with a UF100 on the front area of the house to test it out at a 30deg with their power supply. If it works out well I will go for like a 10deg on each side of the driveway.

 

I was looking at putting a PTZ dome camera in, any recommendations, its going to be used to cover the back and it is well lit at night.

[rory 0]

Oky I think Im going to go with a UF100 on the front area of the house to test it out at a 30deg with their power supply. If it works out well I will go for like a 10deg on each side of the driveway.

 

I was looking at putting a PTZ dome camera in, any recommendations, its going to be used to cover the back and it is well lit at night.

 

Most PTZ's are pretty expensive, and you will need controllers for them also. Kalatel's CyberDomes start at $1300 approx, the keypad at $430 approx (wholesale).

 

A cheaper method would be a Pan Tilt Weatherproof Mechanism, a Zoom Camera like the Samsung SCC-412A, and a regular weatherproof housing, using the controls that come with the camera, and the PTZ mechanism. There may be a controller device that will allow you to tie in the cables from those to it, so you can use them both from one. I have tried this but seen it floating around the web.

 

Rory

[cctv_down_under 0]

One thing to look for chuck?

 

Did you adjust the back focus ring at any time?

It appears from those images that you have two problems and the main one is that the back focus is severely out of whack?

 

Also I would be very curious to find out what housing you have been using outdoors because it would seem that the glass is making another lens, try to see if the picture looks good without the housing on.

 

You are using a f1.4 lens but Tamron is a pretty good lens, so it should not be a problem, there is a lot of reflected light in those images and this is exactly why I hate the superhad or ex view chip, because they really can wash out very badly.

 

Getting your level right for the Auto Iris is very important. Remember to open up when doing your back focus.

 

Alan posted this site before it has great info on setting a back focus (well from memory it did). http://www.supercircuits.com/store/home.asp

 

I think that you might have been better off with a day/night camera so that you can get good images at day or night.

 

As for Avers cards, check that you have told the card it is a B/W camera (if it has that option) and also check that the levels in the software arent out, they would be set with high saturation for colour cameras by default.

 

Also have you mixed B/W and Colour cameras, as this can affect the image on DVR cards?

 

DVR cards never look as good as anlogue does on a montior unless you purchase an overlay board for the DVR, because the picture is digitized on your monitor it is not as sharp, however the recorded frame rates would be faster and adjustments with compression can make a massive difference.

 

Try these things out before you buy the IR illuminators.