Lenses...lenses...lenses...lenses

[duntovlives 0]

I recently purchased a Burle color camera (model TC 372), nothing to write home about...but it works good. I am interested in upgrading to an automatic iris lens for it, but, this camera has a different connection for an AI lens than my other cameras have.

Is there any place on the net, of forum, where I can get some education on the different power plugs used and any other information on lenses to help me get the correct one.

thanks-brian

[rory 0]

Hi, connection for the lead from the lens, or the actual lens itself where it screws onto the camera?

 

Its a really old camera BTW ... burle were took over by Phillips .. who were then took over by Bosch

[duntovlives 0]

the electrical lead for the lens. my others have a square plug, and this one has a round one that is larger.

[rory 0]

Does it plug in?

 

I saw the big round hole on an image of the camera i found on google ..

I used a Burle camera before but didnt see that ..

[duntovlives 0]

yea, that is it. it is round. oh well, i'm sure it's too old to try and round up a lens anyway. i'll just use the ole' thing the way she is. thanks for the input.

[rory 0]

I think you'll need to buy a special Burle lens for it ..

 

I guess you are already using an electronic/manual Iris lens right?

 

I take it the round thing looks like in this picture of another burle camera ..

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/10025643/Images/6530-3.JPG

 

I searched google and just cant find any .. may take some more intense searching ... otherwise yah might be stuck with that lens..

 

Rory

[vf702 0]

I have some of those model camera laying around at work. I believe that I have a combination of lenses including some made by philips. I will check into it, but it will be a few days.

[cctv_down_under 0]

The round plug that you are talking about is the driver for the iris, there should be four wires connected to four pins, in four different colours, I assume it is only supporting Video Drive lenses (if so there will be a level control on the lens...a little trimpot..actually there should be two of them), you just need to take off the plug and get a new one that suits it, the camera will have wiring instructions (if you can find them) as to what colours go on what pins.

[Cooperman 0]

Without looking up the technical bumf on that camera, all models around that age used Video Auto Iris lenses, rather than Direct Drive optics.

 

The connector may be a DIN socket, in which case getting hold of the correct plug shouldn't be too problematic.

 

There are really only three conductors you need to worry about:-

 

Red= +12v DC supply

Black= 0v Ground

White= Video signal

 

To find out the wiring connections, either remove the camera cover and visually note down the wiring on the back of the socket, or if you use a multimeter, you can find the 12v supply by connecting the ground lead to the camera chassis (usually just touch the outer part of the BNC socket with the black lead), and then probe the pins until you register 12v (with the camera switched on ).

 

Then with the camera turned off, you can do a low ohm continuity check between the chassis and the other pins to establish which one is 0v ground.

 

Having established which is +12v and 0v, then it isn't exactly rocket science to work out which of the remaining pins is the Video signal for the lens (built in) auto iris amp.

 

Most lens iris cables have an outer screen of very fine wires, which can be grounded to the metal part of the DIN connector ( if indeed it is a DIN).

 

If you need any more info, just post back and I'll see what I've got lurking in the files

 

... Just a quick update; I had a look at some leaflets for Burle 100, 200 and 300 series cameras ( although here in the U.K., the 300 was a B/W model, not colour), and it would appear that the Auto Iris socket was also used for Ext Sync. signals. As such the connector is listed as an 8 pin DIN.

 

If the camera does indeed have that connector, then it would be better to remove the cover (with the power off), and see if it's possible to I.D. the conductors on the solder tags side, rather than using the multimeter technique I previously mentioned.