1/2' CS lens on a 1/3' CS camera ?

[atropine 0]

Hi,

 

I was looking at a reasonably priced 2nd hand 1/2" motor zoom/focus auto iris CS lens because it's priced reasonably even in comparison to a 1/3"CS lens with the same specs. My cameras are 1/3 inch but I thought if I ever get a 1/2" camera I'd at least have a lens for it then.

 

From what I understand 1/2inch lenses do physically fit on 1/3 inch cameras, but the 1/3inch chip doesn't use the full lens only middle bit.

 

Are there any negatives in using a 1/2 lens on a 1/3 camera, is the image quality less due to not using the full diameter of the lens or any problems with auto iris or motor zoom/focus?

[survtech 0]

You will need to get a "C" to "CS" adaptor (a 5mm spacer) if it is a "C" type lens. Otherwise, no problems.

 

The problems come when you try to put a 1/3" lens on a 1/2" camera (or any "smaller" lens on a "larger' camera). That will cause tunnelvision.

[atropine 0]

That's good to hear.

 

The camera I wanted to put it on is a panasonic WV-CP464. I'm just looking at it now and it doesn't appear to have a data port of any kind. What would I have to buy to be able to use the motorized zoom & focus?

 

I just bought a RS-485 adapter for the serial port on my computer, so I figured when I buy a DVR card I can run a PTZ camera using the DVR software but is there anyway of just zooming the motorized camera lens on the CP464, will the lens it'self have a rs-485 port?

[kensplace 0]

No idea what lens you are looking at, so its impossible to say it definately wont have a rs485 port - but all the motorised zoom lenses I have used had just simple connectors or wires that you had to connect to your own controller. The lenses have wires to control the motors directly, and some will have wires for feedback of the zoom etc position. The feedback wires are usually just linked to variable resistors (potentiometers, or pots for short) that move with the rotation of the zoom.

 

You could either hardwire your own controller using batteries or a dc power source (you would need to check the specs for the lens to see if its 9v or 12v or whatever) and switches - or buy a proper controller/telemetry system.

 

Do you have a model no for the lens?

 

Be aware, I have seen chinese etc sellers on ebay sell new lenses claiming they are motor zoom, when they are not! And when questioned about this, they reply with some nonsense and never correct the auction....

 

You may be able to get away with just using the backfocus adjustment on the cp464 to move the lens the 5mm and save having to get a c/cs adapter, I often manage to do it that way, just on a few cams it cant be done, or does not work and the adapter is required. The 464 backfocus is easy to adjust though if I recall.

[atropine 0]

Thanks about that ebay warning. I was looking at a 10x motorized lens the other week. But figured it was just too cheap to be any good.

 

The lens I was looking at getting is a 16x Computar lens. I don't' have a model number yet , all I know is that it's about 7 years old and zooms from medium wide to telephoto. I"ll have to find out some more.

[kensplace 0]

There are many legitimate lenses on ebay, just some of the far eastern sellers seem to have a problem with marketing

 

The computar lenses usually need a controller, the wires from the lens will power the motors directly, so you in turn need to power those wires somehow! Datasheets should be available for the computar range if you put the model number into google, which should show you the connection details.

 

You will probably need a telemetry receiver at the camera to power the lens functions, and a transmitter at the dvr (unless you get a receiver that is compatible with your dvr if possible) - or just hardwire a control unit, either homebuilt, or one from a supplier.

 

I have a few computar/pentax zoom lenses of about the same age, they were all second hand and work fine!

[atropine 0]

No idea what lens you are looking at, so its impossible to say it definately wont have a rs485 port - but all the motorised zoom lenses I have used had just simple connectors or wires that you had to connect to your own controller. The lenses have wires to control the motors directly, and some will have wires for feedback of the zoom etc position. The feedback wires are usually just linked to variable resistors (potentiometers, or pots for short) that move with the rotation of the zoom.

 

You could either hardwire your own controller using batteries or a dc power source (you would need to check the specs for the lens to see if its 9v or 12v or whatever) and switches - or buy a proper controller/telemetry system.

 

 

Hi Keensplace,

 

I didn't' end up getting the 16x lens as I got a cheap 12x lens instead. it's a Fujinon D12x8A-YE2. It's an F2 lens which is kind of crap but ok for daytime use I guess.

 

Anyway I was looking at the wiring thing for it, and cant' really work out what connections I have to make. I'd just like to make my own controller, i'm hoping you might be able to look at the wiring diagram and tell me what I need to get and what connections to make.

 

I see it has connections for pots, which I presume are potentiometers. If I can give the lens it's 12v DC voltage, and then connect 2 pots 2 move the zoom and focus back and forwards, then that would be great. But not sure if it's that simple, and even less sure where to make the connections.

This is a specification sheet for the lens which shows a little more info than the jpg attached

 

http://www.fujinon.co.jp/en/products/cctv/pdf/c_11.pdf

 

Hope you can help!

 

Thanks

[marzsit 0]

 

I see it has connections for pots, which I presume are potentiometers. If I can give the lens it's 12v DC voltage, and then connect 2 pots 2 move the zoom and focus back and forwards, then that would be great. But not sure if it's that simple, and even less sure where to make the connections.

This is a specification sheet for the lens which shows a little more info than the jpg attached

 

the pot connections are for position feedback, useless for your purposes.. the motors are controlled by 2 wires each, polarity reverses movement. i have a similar lens (computar 5-75mm) and a 9-volt battery seems to work just fine for running it's motors in and out.

 

the iris appears to be dc on your lens, hopefully your camera will accomodate that.. the iris must be connected (correctly..) or you won't get any light through the lens.

[atropine 0]

 

the pot connections are for position feedback, useless for your purposes.. the motors are controlled by 2 wires each, polarity reverses movement. i have a similar lens (computar 5-75mm) and a 9-volt battery seems to work just fine for running it's motors in and out.

 

.

 

Ok, so things with lenses are simpler than I thought. All that's happening is i'm connecting a voltage directly to DC motors , no intelligent circuitry at all. So orange and yellow wire are for zoom, and green and blue wire is for focus. And I don't need to make any other connections?

 

What is the purpose of the feedback circuitry, Is it just to let a control box know/ DVR etc know how far the camera is zoomed in and it's focus position?

 

There's 2 control modes COM and IND, which would I use in this situation of just supplying dc voltage to the motors?

[survtech 0]

Ok, so things with lenses are simpler than I thought. All that's happening is i'm connecting a voltage directly to DC motors , no intelligent circuitry at all. So orange and yellow wire are for zoom, and green and blue wire is for focus. And I don't need to make any other connections?

 

What is the purpose of the feedback circuitry, Is it just to let a control box know/ DVR etc know how far the camera is zoomed in and it's focus position?

 

There's 2 control modes COM and IND, which would I use in this situation of just supplying dc voltage to the motors?

The feedback circuitry is primarily used by control systems that incorporate "presets" settings.

 

If you use the "COM" then all motor ground wires are tied together and the motors are controlled by + and - voltages on the other wires. That allows for less wires back to the controller.

 

"IND" would require separate ground wires for each motor but also allows control by simple relays to reverse voltage to the motors.

[atropine 0]

Thanks for that reply Suvtech, I'll try making a controller for it.

 

Big problem i'm experiencing is Focus shift with this lens when moving from colour to infra red (using a 1/2inch day/night camera) . Not that i'm very experienced with security cameras, but the focus shift seems HUGE compared to my webcam and compared to a video camera with a 1/4 inch CCD. I think it must be something to do with the larger format CCD.

 

Anyway the shift in focus is so dramatic it makes the camera only useful for day OR night, as the focus is much too soft when the camera moves across to the mode you didn't focus for.

 

The manual says the camera supplies a burst signal when it moves to black&white mode. Are there any DVR's or DVR cards for computers (preferred) that could read that burst signal and when detected it shifts focus of the lens to a preset (that preset being focus for infrared) and when the camera goes back to colour mode (and the burst signal not present) the dvr refocuses the lens for daylight?

 

Are these focus problems with day/night cameras only experienced with the larger formats. So 1inch = extreme problems, down to 1/4inch not much of a focus shif at all, or nothing to do with CCD size?

[kensplace 0]

Try focusing the camera when its dark, under the IR conditions.

 

Also do a search on backfocus as a correctly backfocused lens may help to alleviate the problem you are experiencing.

[survtech 0]

Thanks for that reply Suvtech, I'll try making a controller for it.

 

Big problem i'm experiencing is Focus shift with this lens when moving from colour to infra red (using a 1/2inch day/night camera) . Not that i'm very experienced with security cameras, but the focus shift seems HUGE compared to my webcam and compared to a video camera with a 1/4 inch CCD. I think it must be something to do with the larger format CCD.

 

Anyway the shift in focus is so dramatic it makes the camera only useful for day OR night, as the focus is much too soft when the camera moves across to the mode you didn't focus for.

 

The manual says the camera supplies a burst signal when it moves to black&white mode. Are there any DVR's or DVR cards for computers (preferred) that could read that burst signal and when detected it shifts focus of the lens to a preset (that preset being focus for infrared) and when the camera goes back to colour mode (and the burst signal not present) the dvr refocuses the lens for daylight?

 

Are these focus problems with day/night cameras only experienced with the larger formats. So 1inch = extreme problems, down to 1/4inch not much of a focus shif at all, or nothing to do with CCD size?

Alyhough I can't say for sure, my best guess is that the lens itself is not designed for day/night operation.

 

Also remember that focus is far less critical with the iris closed than when it is fully open. That could be affecting your settings. Try adjusting back focus with a neutral density filter or #5-#6 welding glass in front of the lens and the iris fully open. Keep the focus at infinity and look at a distant object. You have to go back and forth between fully zoomed out and fully zoomed in while adjusting back focus until the camera stays in focus at both extremes.

 

If that doesn't work, adjust the lens focus slightly and repeat the back focus procedure until it maintains focus on the distant object over the entire zoom range.