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Ross@thesummit

Bad Cameras or Operator Error?

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I recently just got what I thought was a screamin deal on 22 used dome cameras on ebay. They are Ademco AD3VC4HR's. 1/3" SonyCCD, 470TVL, 4-9mm varifocal, auto iris, etc. They are about 4 years old, I think. I got a good enough price that I figured that even if 25% didn't work, I still got a good deal.

 

The problem is that out of the whole lot, only one gave me a picture when powered up with 24vac. The rest of them produce a series of vertical white stripes, with the sharpest, brightest one at the left, and fading out as the stripes go to the right.

 

So, are the cameras bad, or am I doing something wrong? I find it odd that they all don't work in the same way?

 

Thanks,

 

Ross

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I am really surprised out of 22 cameras that only one works!

 

I have never seen white lines on a camera video going vertical, with the brightest one to the left, and cascading to the right.

 

I could not find enough information in your profile to show me you are a DIY, or a seasoned professional.

 

For the DIY who read this, I would suggest trying to rebench them. I would try a different power supply, and I would try a different video cable. Since I cannot put my hands on these cameras, then I can only guess. I would assume that the first camera worked ok then every other camera had a video problem. Maybe the power supply (or an AC transformer) worked fine until it got warm and then it shut it self in a protection mode.

 

I would assume the video cable workded ok then it lossed the video signal. I would try moving the connector left and right to see if the video pops in and out. On some premade power/video cables the connectors seam to have an achilles heal right at the connector.

_______________________________________________________

 

This is where the seasoned professional gets mad because they are aware of these issues, and have tried every trick in the book, and they do not need the above advice.

 

The seasoned professional would have removed the cable to the camera that is inside the dome, and they would transfer it to the other dome camera. The internal connection may have a "dirty" connection. Over a period of time dust, grime, and god for bid if they were installed in a bar, or nightclub where they are allowed to smoke will build up destroying a good electrical connection. Seasoned professionals never use WD 40 on electrical connections. This is a great product but it actually leaves a film behind, which is great for wear, and tear, or a rust free surface. This film will act as an insulator and will disrupt electrical connections. DIY can buy "color tuner" cleaner at places such as Radio Shack or such electronics store. If you are an old timer Lafayette electronics is no longer around. Sorry.

 

A pro will retry again whick will lead to the culprit as to why the video is not coming up.

 

The last resort is that the cameras are bad. I find this hard to believe. What we should see is that some videos are dead, some are showing BW instead of color. Some of the units may have been damaged in the removal process so the camera may not sit at the right tilt angle. Some cameras will have broken tabs or such from being forced open or not opening on their own to begin with. This will be more typical of this kind of lot.

 

I would give the EBAY person the chance to work with you. If that fails then you may have to give him a bad mark. I would not do this lightly. Let the EBAY person try all avenues before you give up. The last thing you want is a bad marked thrown at you as well.

 

I am sorry I cannot be of more help!

 

Good luck tinkering!

 

Scorpion

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I think I eliminated the power supply and the video cable. I've tried both a 24vac and a 12vdc power supply and gotten consistent results, and I've been using the same video cable the whole time. I've also switched monitors, which had no effect.

 

I am a DIYer, and appreciate the other tips. The camera's do not seem like they were in a smoky environment, and the connections seem solid. I haven't tried switching the power supply pigtail from one camera to another. The connectors at the board are not easy to get at with a tool, so I'll do some continuity testing first. Easier to do.

 

They were removed by someone who did not know what they were doing. Some of the gimbels were pried out of the base, as though the person did not realize that all you had to do was turn them to get at the mounting screws. But not all of them are that way.

 

Thanks again for your reply.

 

Ross

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I am at a loss on this one. I will have to right it off as the power company having a spike/brownout/generator transfer/glitch that may have caused the original install power supply to go belly up and kill all of the cameras. If one survived maybe it was the farthest one down line and had was able to withstand the assualt.

 

This would explain why they bought new cameras and sold the "old" ones on EBay.

 

The removal process that you described did not surprise me in the least.

 

Man that is a tough break. They are not even good for spare parts!

 

On the EBay sale did it ever mention "as is" or pretested????

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But I'll see what the seller says. Do you know if the lenses are worth anything? They are 4-9mm varifocal w/ auto iris. I'm not sure of the mount style. It looks like there may be a single screw clamp, but I'm not quite sure yet.

 

Thanks,

 

Ross

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sounds like they were all gen locked, you might need to flick the switch to

"internal sync" -if it has this

 

if that fails look at the signal on a CRO,

 

this guy who sold them as working got them out of a dumpster probably -after the owner had lightning strike !

 

 

z

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I thought of that, too, but they are dual voltage (24vac/12vdc) cameras with DC polarity reversal protection. At least I'm sure I didn't damage them.

 

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts on this subject.

 

Ross

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