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Questions about powering CCTV cameras in vehicle

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I thought these questions would be best suited for this section of the forum.

 

So I finally got my 7 hidden cameras for the car. I started some of the basic wiring last night, but then starting doubting myself. All the cameras (2 types) run off of about 100mA. Is that seriously only .1A? They came with 400-500mA AC power supplies though @ 12 volts.

 

The Quad processor is like 200mA and the Microphones are near 20mA! Is it going to be okay if I give them more power than they need?

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the quads i use are 1.5amps .. i use 2amp power suppies .. and they are a Cheap OEM model ... so I dont see how that quad only uses that little.

 

some cheap mini cameras or bullets, specifically budget BW, are only 100ma .. though dont expect amazing quality from those. .. most cameras range from 300-500, with the decent IR ones from 1am+

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A unit rated to draw 100mA will not draw more, whether the source is capable of 1A or 1000A. Keep in mind, though, that if you install 7 cameras rated at 100mA plus a quad at 200mA and microphones, you will be drawing approximately 1 ampere-hour (1Ah) of power continuously from the battery.

 

This will discharge a car battery in a relatively short time. Probably shorter than you would think based on the rated draws.

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Okay. Thank you. That's what I thought, but wanted to check with you guys. I've got three 1/3" sony CCD 4.3MM lens cameras and four 1/3" Samsung CCD B/W cameras. I think the mobile DVR takes 10A too.

 

The cameras and video will only be on when the car is on, or when triggered by hidden switches/remotes or when the alarm goes off.

 

About how long do you think it would take before it makes the vehicle unable to start? I can have my 15Amp radio on for 5-6 hours before I can't start the car anymore.

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I'm not sure. It probably depends on the condition of the battery and what else is drawing current. We put a single camera (approx 100-150mA also) in a car and it killed the battery in 2-3 days.

 

Of course, it was a hidden covert camera that was always on.

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I would be upgrading your cars battery to a larger one.

so it will keep going over night with no problems.

 

These car batterys are rated in 1000`s of "AMP hours" easy to work out

if you drawing 1amp [not to be confused with CCA]

 

most car bats are not 12v but 13.8 or 14.2 when charging so make sure

you use a regulator -most cams/dvrs have them anyway.

 

guess you could link the dvrs quad to a wireless transmitter and watch from

your lounge !

 

m

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I'm not sure. It probably depends on the condition of the battery and what else is drawing current. We put a single camera (approx 100-150mA also) in a car and it killed the battery in 2-3 days.

 

Of course, it was a hidden covert camera that was always on.

 

Yeah, I'd like to be able to keep them on all of the time, but I just don't think it's going to be possible without really working the battery. I think the Mobile DVR is 10A. So that plus everything else, and it wouldn't take too long to run it down.

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I would be upgrading your cars battery to a larger one.

so it will keep going over night with no problems.

 

These car batterys are rated in 1000`s of "AMP hours" easy to work out

if you drawing 1amp [not to be confused with CCA]

 

most car bats are not 12v but 13.8 or 14.2 when charging so make sure

you use a regulator -most cams/dvrs have them anyway.

 

guess you could link the dvrs quad to a wireless transmitter and watch from

your lounge !

 

m

 

Yeah, the DVR has a cable that goes to the start ignition wire so it won't try to run on some crazy start up voltage. I'm going to be using the wire that finally does give power to the DVR, with a relay so it turns the cameras on once the car has safe voltage.

 

You guys really have me wanting them on all of the time now though.

 

I could probably hook them up to a car alarm motion sensor so any action would kick the DVR and cameras on and record it.

 

That wireless transmitter would be awesome!

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Be careful

 

Keep in mind that a short circuit fault condition going direct to a car battery can produce hundreds, if not more amps of current, which could easily set fire to the wiring involved (which could in turn set the car on fire, or kill off your electrics/engine management/lights etc whilst driving down a motorway....). Directly shorting a car battery with something that is capable of not burning up (say dropping a spanner over the two terminals) can cause the battery to explode violently - acid everywhere - nasty...

 

Make sure you fuse everything with suitably rated fuses, and that all the wiring is well insulated and able to cope with the typical automotive problems (oil, heat, vibration (so it does not wear away the insulation).

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You may wish to consider mouting a second or third battery in the trunk and having the wiring draw off of that power source. You would have to find a way to charge the batteries, but your car would still start when you needed it.

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for sure, there are heaps of dual bat systems for 4x4/RVs , you could also

install a low voltage cut-out so it wont kill the battery

 

these gadgets disconnect your device if it drops to 10v etc etc...

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you will have o problem with the power comsumption, just be carrefull if the engine is turned off, that the camera's are also turned off.

otherwise you can find the battery emty after a day without charging..

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I wanted to put my two cents on this thread.

 

If you have a friend who is an automechanic you can have them install a secondary alternator, and battery system. One system for your CCTV, and the other for your auto.

 

Those of you who have rear wheel drive can take a fan (radiator) pully, and have it put on the rear pumkin shaft. You can put a belt from this pully to an alternator, and place the battery, and voltage regulator electronics in the trunk. IE: Dragster style!

 

I would have you isolate the voltage to the cams/DVR. You will want to isolate it with a bridge rectifier, and a large cap.

 

If you pump bass, and your dash lights flicker then you know what I mean. Imagine what happens when you start your car, and shut it off.

(The decaying energy in the alt can create a reverse polarity. It is brief, but it can damage sensitive electronics).

 

If you say it does not matter then you are right. If you think it may be a concern, then how much does a bridge rectifier, and a large capacitor cost? OK plus labor?

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