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Your View on 9040HIR

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Will this be good enough to see someones face at night ? (for drive way)

 

 

 

9040HIR/3 "High Resolution"

Outside IR Colour Camera

Specifications

 

*

Image Pick-up Device: 1/3" Sony Image Sensor

*

TV System: PAL

*

Number of Pixels: 752(H) x 582(V)

*

Resolution: 480 TV Lines

*

Min. Illumination: 1Lux / F2.0; 0 Lux (15 meter IR ON)

*

Video Output: 1.0 V p-p 75 Ohms

*

Board Lens: 8mm (45 Deg) F2.0

*

S/N Ratio: More than 46 dB

*

Electronic Shutter: 1/50 - 1/100,00 Sec

*

Power Source: DC 12V

*

Current Consumption: 90 mA (IR OFF), 450 mA (IR ON)

*

Dimmensions: 80(D) x 110(L)mm

*

Weight: Approx. 750 Grammes

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Yes, If you position the camera correctly.

The 7100HVIR dome is a better buy, but only has 10m IR.

 

This 9040HIR is a reasonable budget cam.

Its an OEM camera named that way by that specific supplier.

Better known as CD9040D3P

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=cd9040d3p&btnG=Google+Search&meta=

 

Typically from an OEM camera, some data sheets say 15m IR some say 30m IR......

It switches to black and white at about 5 lux, not 1 lux

 

I bought 8 of these for a project last year.

At the time they were 4mm lenses and 20m IR

Crazy really as there is not much detail at 20m on a wide angle lens.

Your supplier agrees with me.

However, I now see that they are 8mm lenses.

That should make a difference.

 

 

My biggest gripe with buget IR cameras is this:

If the IR is not bouncing off something, the image is dark.

Introduce a person to the image. Now the IR bounces off his body.

The CCD takes an average over the whole image and opens the shutter accordingly.

Leaving the backround underexposed and foreground overexposed.

Meaning the person is bleached out, very white, no detail.

 

In statistics, they remove the highest and lowest result and work an average from that. Higher end cameras open up the shutter in a similar way. Or by regions within the image.

 

So find a sweetspot 10m down the driveway, mount the camera at around 3m in height and point down at the sweetspot.

Some of the IR will bounce back giving a nice b+w image.

Introduce a person and the average exposure will be good enough to make out detail.

 

PM me your email and I will send you sample images.

Edited by Guest

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With an all in one Infrared Camera, the lower you go the better, but not too low. When you mount the camera at say, 8-10', you then want to raise the camera up so the IR does not hit the ground. Sometimes it will, if that is all there is and it obviously depends on the Infrared distance.

 

For general observation, you essentially want an object for it to reflect off of, spreading it out evenly. Walls will work, bush and people will not. If you want to capture a persons face, you will either need to adjust the level of the IR at the camera if it allows you to, just enough so it will light up their face, but not enough to wash them out completely, OR mount it at a position where when the person comes into the image they are not too close to the camera, hence the IR is far enough away from them, but just close enough to illuminate their face; further zoom on the lens helps with this also.

 

If you place it up too high, the IR will barely work as good as they should, and the persons face will be too far away anyways.

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Good points.

UKCAM, Rory has years of experince in this.

 

Bounced IR works so much better that direct IR in my experience.

 

Even if you dont get the results you expected from an IR cam, you can always try and catch the subject off center, or tape off a few IR bulbs.

Or spend a grand

 

This is all camera dependent.

 

But that model did have excess IR for lens size.

The supplier told me they were expecting a new model that rectified this. Im assuming its the new one he's selling. Check that with him.

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Yes, If you position the camera correctly.

The 7100HVIR dome is a better buy, but only has 10m IR.

 

This 9040HIR is a reasonable budget cam.

Its an OEM camera named that way by that specific supplier.

Better known as CD9040D3P

 

 

Typically from an OEM camera, some data sheets say 15m IR some say 30m IR......

It switches to black and white at about 5 lux, not 1 lux

 

I bought 8 of these for a project last year.

At the time they were 4mm lenses and 20m IR

Crazy really as there is not much detail at 20m on a wide angle lens.

Your supplier agrees with me.

However, I now see that they are 8mm lenses.

That should make a difference.

 

 

My biggest gripe with buget IR cameras is this:

If the IR is not bouncing off something, the image is dark.

Introduce a person to the image. Now the IR bounces off his body.

The CCD takes an average over the whole image and opens the shutter accordingly.

Leaving the backround underexposed and foreground overexposed.

Meaning the person is bleached out, very white, no detail.

 

In statistics, they remove the highest and lowest result and work an average from that. Higher end cameras open up the shutter in a similar way. Or by regions within the image.

 

So find a sweetspot 10m down the driveway, mount the camera at around 3m in height and point down at the sweetspot.

Some of the IR will bounce back giving a nice b+w image.

Introduce a person and the average exposure will be good enough to make out detail.

 

PM me your email and I will send you sample images.

 

The camera will be point downwards from my bedroom and will about 7meters high.

 

The second camera will be on the side enternce to the garden.

 

WHAT DVR CARD SHOULD I GET ?

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That supplier sells Geovision GV-250 PC cards and the Avtech 760 standalone DVR.

Thats about as cheap as they get. Both appear to be effective budget solutions.

 

The geovision card will give you 25 frames per second over 4 cameras.

Or 6 frames per second per camera if 4 cams all recording motion at the same time.

Thats acceptable for a home installation in my opinion.

 

A camera mounted at 7m will give you great pictures of peoples foreheads. High mounted cameras are good for overview.

You need a close up.

I try to mount my cams from eye level to 3m in height.

 

Aim for the person to fill at least 100% of the frame (head to foot), or there is a good chance you will not recognise them again.

Police will not accept any less as evidence.

 

Consider mounting it lower, or buying a vandal proof dome and mounting at eye level as Rory recommended.

 

Bear in mind, this is only my opinion.

CCTV can be a bit of a dark art

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