jo2jo 0 Posted November 8, 2007 I have 20 of these outdoor 1/3" vandal proof domes. these are on two seperate Avermedia DVRs (its not the DVR) for some reason during the day some of the cameras get this blue tint. if you reset the power to them it genearlly will go back to normal. we can reset the power every day obviously. why is this?? im using several 4amp bricks that go the 1 to 4 spliters but i only use 2 of the four per power supply. The images should be attached thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RickA 0 Posted November 8, 2007 What is the camera you are using? What is the chipset? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scorpion 0 Posted November 8, 2007 Hey Rick A! I like your tip in your tech section! change the dip switch settings for AES to off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RickA 0 Posted November 8, 2007 Thank you Scorpion, means I don't have to answer it again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jo2jo 0 Posted November 8, 2007 it says sony 1/3" on the box, its 520 TVL auto iris, 3.5-9mm there are no other settings i can see to change on the camera, there is this small screw with a red arrow pointing to it but turning it does not seem to change anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RickA 0 Posted November 8, 2007 bottom of the camera boards should be a set of dipswitchs check for one that is labeled AES. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jo2jo 0 Posted November 9, 2007 no dip switches I have a bunch of small holes that have labels like. Im assuming i have to short that small hole for AES with sodier or something, right? is this a known issue? (blue tint and aes?) tks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RickA 0 Posted November 9, 2007 No, don't solder, if there are no dip switch settings, then you cannot set AES, and we have found that with the new sony chipset that with a light colored background and auto iris lens that you will get a blue tint, but if AES is turned off and you adjust the auto iris you can eliminate most of the blue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jo2jo 0 Posted November 9, 2007 it only happnens sometimes and reseting power to an affected cam will fix the issue. what are these sodier points anyway? they have about 8 of them each with a label like aes, blc, iris actaully AES is filled on this camera here. any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RickA 0 Posted November 9, 2007 Seems to be the spot where the dip switch board should be, AES, BLC, are settings that are on the dip switch settings, your camera must not be equiped with those settings. Is there a potentiometer close to that part of the board? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cctv_down_under 0 Posted November 13, 2007 Are their RGB phase buttons on the back of the unit, take a piccy of the back of the camera and post it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.surveillance 0 Posted November 13, 2007 If there are no switches on the camera try swapping one out with a like camera that you are not having problems with, if that solves the problem the camera is defective. I have had no name cameras lock up before giving the same results. Also have had simular problems with cameras not receiving enough power. Have you checked the voltage at the camera? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.surveillance 0 Posted November 13, 2007 A possibly related story; About five years ago I bought a bunch of B&W bullets in a closeout deal. I ran tests on them and when hit with bright light most would freeze up and the image would turn grey with no contrast. Disconnect and re-connect power and they would be ok. I would not sell these to my customers. An installer (from a neighboring town) contacted me and wanted some cheap cameras and I told him what I had and their problem. He bought all of them. In a later conversation he told me that he used them at drive throughs and the ones he had lockup problems with he installed a n.c. momentary switch in the power lead and told the customer to push the "reset" button if the picture was not good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kifertech 0 Posted November 14, 2007 Hi Jo2jo, You should test by 2 ways: First: may be your seperate Avermedia DVRs problem, you can connect camera to monitor directly, if no problem, then that is your DVRs problem. Also you can change channel to test that. Second: Camera became blue may be voltage is not enough, it also could be like blue or red or yellow somthing. another is your camera really broken, the capacitance inside not working well, can not release excrescent electronic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cctv_down_under 0 Posted November 14, 2007 Are they Ganz cameras by chance? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BurstElement 0 Posted November 16, 2007 Sticky ICR? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynndiwagon 0 Posted November 16, 2007 I've seen the exact problem on Covi cameras. It is a hardware problem..with them. When camera boots a mechanical device inserts the IR filter during calibration. If this doesn't happen properly you will get the symptoms shown. They will replace.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troubledb 0 Posted November 17, 2007 do as said above. when it is blue disconnect it from your dvr & put it straight in to your monitor. is it still blue. if it is then it would be pointing towards your camera. is it day & night camera as if it is it could be the iris sticking which would explain the power off to fix. which in simple terms means your camera module usually sony is goosed. i dont think it would be a capacitor as you would see it straight away. if you find it is not blue when connecting to the monitor - what dvr are you using & does it have a required video paek to peak input. maybe your on the low end of this tolerance. i have a new dennard dome if your interested. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites