Anyone ever Heat Shrink RG59?

[rory 0]

Anyone? If so, any ideas, what product used and how you did it.

Also, anyone did Siamese cable, 18AWG and RG59?

 

Have a client where there was no choice to splice where a pole was moved, it was that or run 3 new cables some 100+ foot back around this building and that one, remove and replace wire mold as well as conduit, and get around other data cables, etc etc etc, so that wont happen anytime soon. Spliced as I always do and used alot of electric tape, but its in a weatherproof box in the ground (sealed tight and caulked, slightly above ground but mostly in the ground) but was thinking of maybe heat shrinking it or something else just to make it a more professional connection.

 

Also found this one online:

http://www.etcon.com/etcon/prosplic.html

 

Anyway, I know my splices can last years as I have proven in the past, but this recent one is one of those that am even questioning myself.

[Lolo Wolf 0]

Rory, used the Etcon line for years good products also look at the 3M line of cold and heat shrink products they have a very diverse selection of splice kits (all voltage, direct burial rated) worth every penny in a repair situation, folks out here run wild on backhoes and ditchwitches without doing a locate, cut cable and ripout conduit all the time. Never leave home without them. A hot splice is the best, use a heatgun or hairdryer and wave till the ooze flows. when done correctly it will near outlast the wire.

[rory 0]

Rory, used the Etcon line for years good products also look at the 3M line of cold and heat shrink products they have a very diverse selection of splice kits (all voltage, direct burial rated) worth every penny in a repair situation, folks out here run wild on backhoes and ditchwitches without doing a locate, cut cable and ripout conduit all the time. Never leave home without them. A hot splice is the best, use a heatgun or hairdryer and wave till the ooze flows. when done correctly it will near outlast the wire.

 

Think I'll take a flight up there so you can show me how to do it

 

I'll check out 3m as an email to Etcon's site came back to me. Any idea where to buy them? (PM me if you know of any retail or distributors please), thanks.

[Lolo Wolf 0]

I source a lot through Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml but local to you, retail Im sure you can find splice kits, check The HomeCentre, West Atlantic Drive Freeport or online try midsouth http://midsouthcable.com/EtconSplice.htm they carry Etcon proSplice kits and the last time I dealt with them they answer the phone, dependent on the wire/cable with rg59 or power like 18-2 etc. LV as you described I would revisit the splice and remove the tape, redo the splice and go with a heat shrink or a Etcon cap with less fear of haunting you later. If you wanna fly out here bring some snowshoes and hot rum....I'll make the coffee.....

[rory 0]

Thanks, I'll take a look at those.

 

Yeah Freeport is actually a 45 min or so flight from here, not to mention the wait at the airport prior to boarding and the chance that the flight is a few hours late leaving is next to guaranteed

 

Snow .. arghh ... been *cold* here lately but no snow as yet!

[Rebco 0]

I have used heatshrink and just put alot of silicone in the first the heated it some will ooze out but when it dries its water tight......I dont say it's right just say i"ve done it and it worked.. By the Rory what are you doing up? Late night?

[cachecreekcctv 0]

I normally use shrink tubing after I get the BNC connector on , and insure it works correctly. Power connections also. I always use 3M brand only.

[Kiwi 0]

I'm not a pro but could add this - if you use silicone sealant on electrical circuits it might be best to use the "sensor safe" variety that does not emit corrosive gas while curing. Another option would be to use silicone dielectric grease which does not harden but will exclude moisture.

 

I wrap aluminum foil around the center conductor joint (after heat shrink) to maintain some sort of continuous shield, then lay the shield wires against it and solder.

[jeromephone 6]

We always use a splice kit as mentioned in the other posts. For something pole mounted or on the side of a building we use a carlon box with the proper sized compression fittings mounted on the bottem of the box. It is pretty cheap and you can re-enter if necessary.

[RickA 0]

I use two BNC with barrel connector and dielectric grease then heatshrink that, works for me.

[woodyads 0]

Hey Rory

 

We use lots of Mil spec and other connectors on our machinery. We then wrap them in Rubber weld tape. Probably the same stuff as the cold shrink stuff mentioned above. Its good cause there is no sticky residue when you take it off. We opperate in 60c heat, dust and hyper saline water. Nasty as they come. And it works a treat.

[Gesualdo 0]

Rory, I have used heat shrink and this stuff called liquid electric tape in rc model boats and subs where the connections are under water and constant direct contact with the water without problems, even at high speeds and rough water. Done it for years without a single short or break. of course this is fter soldering the connection.

 

Gesualdo

[cachecreekcctv 0]

Forgot to mention the Rubber-weld tape also. I use it on most High voltage motor connections (nothing to do with CCTV) . Can stretch quite a ways around. 3M makes it . Much easier to take off than regular electric tape, no residue. Can be wound pretty tight and probablty impervious to most non-pressurized water spray. Good alternative choice.

[kensplace 0]

I tend to pick up lengths of heat shrink tubing on ebay, and just use a hot air gun (or hair dryer if I cant find the gun) to shrink it.

 

Looks great, comes in different colours for colour coding too....

[DVR MAN 0]

You should Google "stuf Teflon waterproof" and check it out. You squirt this into the connector and it waterproofs it. You could then heat shrink or tape the assembly for further protection. Stuf comes in a tube that will seal 100 connectors. Yeah it is spelled Stuf. And as mentioned above in another post, if you use silicone adhesive, be sure it is electronic grade. Electronic grade does not use acetic acid as a vessel to promote curing.